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I'm tired of seeing post after post of wrong information, I don't have time to sift through it all and provide assistance.

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I will do my best to document them in the first post, AKA THIS POST RIGHT HERE.

Below will be a link as they are documented. I will host it on my website for easy finding.

YAY!

Ecoboost Fueling Question

Now I understand the Ecoboost has a cam driven gear for fueling.

I know it can only support so much horsepower and additional fueling would be handled by adding additional injectors on the intake.

I don't have much experience with direct injection, but why can't the cam gear be modified somehow to increase fueling? Or can it?
And what does it look like?

Seems to be a lot of questions regarding upgrading the direct injection injectors, although I know the car cant support it anyhow.

Great idea, Adam. I'm happy to check in on this, as well and help where I can.
Also, someone wrote me on here about the rear end install and I cant find your email. I apologize, can you please re-send?
Thanks-

Here is a question that has been dogging my build (Adam you know this one I have been throwing it at you for a month or so =) )

How much loss of boost pressure is to be considered normal under high temp and humidity, or even just warmed up car and high humidity because that has happened too, as opposed to Cool and dry?

As you know I have had some odd pressure loss with no leaks found, and my AITs are very constant usually around 3-5 degrees ambient. I almost never hit triple digits unless at a stop. Even with excellent IATs I am finding the car will struggle to reach target boost if its either warmed up, hot out and worse humid, such as the other day it was only 73 degrees but 85% hum and 22 psi was my max for the day. However if it was 68 degrees and 5% humidity 27 PSI all day till the car warms up.

Now I know 3.5 PSI is not a huge number but I am also not sure why it sometimes loses boost even with temps being nominal and my AITs being so consistent.

Do you think there is a possibility the diaphragm on my WG is getting overheated in these situation then leaking small amounts of boost, or is this just normal loss for the conditions?

Johnarmymp552 said:

Now I understand the Ecoboost has a cam driven gear for fueling.

I know it can only support so much horsepower and additional fueling would be handled by adding additional injectors on the intake.

I don't have much experience with direct injection, but why can't the cam gear be modified somehow to increase fueling? Or can it?
And what does it look like?

Seems to be a lot of questions regarding upgrading the direct injection injectors, although I know the car cant support it anyhow.

Click to expand...

The cam gear doesn't drive the fuel pump, there is a 4-part lobe system on the backside of the cam (not timing chain side) that lives the bucket in the fuel pump housing and "strokes" the pump. The reason you can't increase the camshaft lobe itself is a few reasons.

1. The cost of doing so would outweigh the benefit as you would have to recast a camshaft or have the camshaft built up and reground.

2. The pump is already at max lift. The only way to increase fuel supply with the HPFP is to increase the volume of the pump itself.

Injector upgrades will be worthwhile once the HPFP upgrade is available but even then you are going to be severely limited. At that point port injection has much more benefit than just fueling power.

5.0yote said:

Here is a question that has been dogging my build (Adam you know this one I have been throwing it at you for a month or so =) )

How much loss of boost pressure is to be considered normal under high temp and humidity, or even just warmed up car and high humidity because that has happened too, as opposed to Cool and dry?

As you know I have had some odd pressure loss with no leaks found, and my AITs are very constant usually around 3-5 degrees ambient. I almost never hit triple digits unless at a stop. Even with excellent IATs I am finding the car will struggle to reach target boost if its either warmed up, hot out and worse humid, such as the other day it was only 73 degrees but 85% hum and 22 psi was my max for the day. However if it was 68 degrees and 5% humidity 27 PSI all day till the car warms up.

Now I know 3.5 PSI is not a huge number but I am also not sure why it sometimes loses boost even with temps being nominal and my AITs being so consistent.

Do you think there is a possibility the diaphragm on my WG is getting overheated in these situation then leaking small amounts of boost, or is this just normal loss for the conditions?

Click to expand...

All depends on the car and the tune, there are different compensations for boost based on charge air temp, ambient temp, and others. Your big swing, yes 3.5psi is big, might be due to something faulty in your boost control system. Small leak that get's bigger when it is warmer. You should never see 27psi as all tunes are set to cut throttle/wgdc at a certain boost level and no car I have ever tuned was at 27psi on stock turbo.

I would do a pressure test on your actuator to see when it opens and if you pressurize if it slowly looses pressure. It should be able to hold 10-15psi easily and go back to 0psi after a minute or so. If it leaks faster than that you might have an issue.

Will an ARH H-pipe fit on another manufacturer catback and long tubes?

What in your opinion is needed to combat the DI valve carbon deposit issue that everyone seems to be so concerned about in a stock engine? Should we be using a carbon cleaning solution every (X)k miles? My DI Hyundai Turbo has a recommended fuel service every 30k miles which I believe helps to remove carbon buildup on the valves? I would expect a formal recommended service from Ford as well but there is no recommended service.

Does top tier gas help in this area? What gas stations do you use/avoid if gas is a factor?

Should we be using a specific Oil blend, manufacturer? When I asked the Ford service tech if I should switch my Oil to full synthetic he said no and recommended that I stick with the original blend.

16s550 said:

Will an ARH H-pipe fit on another manufacturer catback and long tubes?

Click to expand...

This is the EcoBoost section.

Subbed. Thanks for doing this Adam.

Thanks Adam. I know how busy you are.

16s550 said:

Will an ARH H-pipe fit on another manufacturer catback and long tubes?

Click to expand...

This is Ecoboost Section, sorry!

Maggneto said:

What in your opinion is needed to combat the DI valve carbon deposit issue that everyone seems to be so concerned about in a stock engine? Should we be using a carbon cleaning solution every (X)k miles? My DI Hyundai Turbo has a recommended fuel service every 30k miles which I believe helps to remove carbon buildup on the valves? I would expect a formal recommended service from Ford as well but there is no recommended service.

Does top tier gas help in this area? What gas stations do you use/avoid if gas is a factor?

Should we be using a specific Oil blend, manufacturer? When I asked the Ford service tech if I should switch my Oil to full synthetic he said no and recommended that I stick with the original blend.

Click to expand...

To combat carbon you only have a few options:

1. Methanol injection, this will hit the backside of the valves and will break down any carbon that is already built up and keep them clean moving forward.

2. E85 conversion (we have a kit on our site) that will inject between the intake manifold and head. Unlike other kits on the market our kit goes down each intake runner instead of just one. This will keep the back of the valve clean just like it would on a normal port injection car. Running E85 keeps it even cleaner as it works as a solution to break down the deposits.

3. If either of the above are not an option, I would suggest getting a catch can kit that does not re-introduce oil vapor to the engine (open loop system). I have a complete kit coming out soon that will replace the factory breather/pcv plate and include a catch can that does no reconnect to the intake or intake manifold. This will NOT stop all carbon build up but will assist and keep it at bay a lot longer than just leaving the vehicle stock.

Do not run any carbon cleaning solution, if you get build up the only solution is a walnut blast. Something VW and BMW do around the 50-60k mark. It cleans the valves without pulling the head off and works VERY well.

I avoid gas stations like Shell, QT, and anything with heavy additives. Shell seems to be the worst.

Does an aftermarket downpipe really make a difference on a stock turbo ?

Thanks Adam...I have a crazy question...

Can a E85 flex fuel kit be installed that can utilize a ethanol sensor that will send a signal to the ecm with the ratio of the E85 and gasoline to automatically re-calibrate for maximize performance for the amount of ethanol detected?

Okay you tuner and/or engine builders, I have a question about E85 fuel: There's a gas station less than 2 miles away from me that carries E85 fuel. I have not gotten a Flex Fuel tune so I can use E85 because I read and heard if you don't use the car regularly, and that E85 fuel sits in your car's fuel system, it can cause damage to the system and your internal engine components. My car is a weekend/fun car, so it sits at least 5-6 days a week and straight through December to April. This, I suppose could be for any of the Mustang's. Am I hearing/reading correct information?