Inigo
P2P Engineering
- Thread starter
- #1
I thought I would share detail about the upcoming components getting installed. I will share videos and photos of the build and in car acceleration.
Region: Denver Colorado 5400 Ft
Fuel: 91 Pump E85 in the future
Car: 2015 Magnetic Mustang GT 6sp, PP, Leather Recaros, Premium Package
Tires: MT ET Street 285/30/19 R 255/35/19 F
(UPDATE
NTO5R 305/35/19 Rear RE71R Front 2/9/16
Parts Installed:
Ford Racing Taillight Panel
Black Emblems
JLT Catch Can
BMR Vertical Links
BMR Rear Sway Bar Soft Setting w/Factory front
Steeda Subframe Rear Brace
Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit
Steeda Sport Springs
Steeda Rear Subframe Bushing Reinforcement Kit
MBRP Street CBE W/H Pipe
Lund Tune Via SCT X4
Beefcake Special Paxton Kit Novi 2200 3.8 Pulley
ID1000 Injectors
NGK Plugs
Maxflow BAP
Steeda Gtrack Front Brace
Blowfish Tranny Bracket
DSS 800 HP Axles
MMR Billet OPG
MMR Billet Timing Gear
Amsoil MTF
Sound Tube Delete Kit
170 Deg. Thermostat
Lund SC tune
Grill Delete L/U
Forgestar F14s 19x10 Square (Installed)
Latest Update:
-After first calibration car experienced a no start condition. Reverting to previous calibration allowed start up check. Waiting on update from Lund. -Oct 1st. PM
-Revised calibration received. Car started. Idle and Neutral Rev logs sent. -Oct 3rd. AM
-Cruise Log sent -Oct 6th. AM
-Revised calibration received & loaded. Logs sent Calibration R2. -Oct 6th. PM
-Cruise w/WOT log sent. -Oct 7th. AM
-Final calibration received. -Oct 7th. PM
-Installation of 3.6 pulley and intake. Gap plugs at .028 from .032 -Nov 15th. AM
-Revised calibration received. -Nov 16th. PM
Car made it back to the dyno at Finish line performance. The dyno graph from that day is at the very bottom. 696rwhp 523rwtq
Installation Summary Oil Pump Gear:
Special Tools:
OTC 6667 Harmonic Damper Puller
MMR Installation Bolt
303-448 (T93P-6303-A) Crank Holding Tool
Caulking gun
Parts Used:
MMR oil pump gears
MMR Timing gear
Front cover gasket set (Its three parts, three different part numbers)
Valve cover gaskets (you may be able to re-use the old gasket)
Ford Sealant TA-30
Completed Project awaiting tune, dyno and additional media
The installation of MMR's oil pump gear and timing gear went smoothly. The removal process was simple and some of the parts removed such as the front bumper cover, undertray, engine covers etc, helped speed up the Paxton installation. Once the front cover was off, I used the Ford crank turning tool to rotate the crank clockwise until the timing marks on the chain and the indent R/L on the VCT lined up. You can turn the crank with less effort using the old bolt with two washer (crank). Install this before removing timing components.
The timing marks on each chain and vct never matched. I could only get either the left or right bank lined up with the vct and the timing gear sprocket at a given time. I marked the bank that did not line up using white out. You can then remove the chain guides and tensioner. I did not have to rotate the crank to release tension on the chains. Once the chain guides and tensioner are removed, you can rotate the chain around the sprocket. Once the chain is removed you can slide the timing gear off the crank with little to no effort.
You'll need to remove the oil pan pickup tube bolts. They are 10mm bolts. I found removal on the passenger side bolt simple. The drivers side bolt was difficult. There is not alot of work room. I used a 10mm ratcheting wrench. Once the bolt is loose you can turn it by finger. During re-installation, that same bolt was extremely difficult to get back on. One of the oil pan baffles restricts your access to the bolt unless its nearly hand tightened. This bolt is a lesson on patience. I used my fingers to get it started and went one increment at a time. When the bolt fell, I used a small telescoping magnet to pick it up. I recommend using a shop towel in the oil pan to "absorb" and catch the bolt when if falls.
Installing the actual gear set into the oil pump housing was simple. Lubricate the gears and install with logo facing you. Clean off both plates around the mating surface an install top cover plate using T20 bit. Tighten relatively tight by hand. Rotate gear set. Insure bind free operation. Install pump assembly.
Timing gear installation required force to slide over the crank shaft and keyway. The MMR timing gear has a tighter tolerance. Mine did not slide on like the factory gear. I used a soft rubber mallet to carefully bed the gear into position. Prior to installing the gear, I marked the gear with white out to match the marked factory gear. To double check your mark alignment, you can stack the factory gear and MMR gear and ensure the marks match the tooth on the each gear exactly.
Compressing the chain guide tensioner was done via a small bench mounted vice. My tensioners did not require any additional attention. I cut a piece of thick chicken wire and use them as holding pins. A small drill bit would work. You need a pin for both tensioners.
Installation Summary Paxton 2200SL:
The overall installation required moderate amounts of trimming, cutting and relocation. The instructions are a mix match of installation procedures and pictures that are not cohesive. Many are not from a 2015 GT. The manual provided will get you through most of the install but lacks accuracy in the detail and depiction of several steps.
BAP Wiring went smoothly. I suggest removing the rear seat bench first. Make sure you push the retaining clips in to release the bench. The clips are below the edge of the seat toward the front. I mounted my BAP in the trunk on the drivers side wheel well wall. You have to remove the carpet first. I mounted the box using strong velcro. On the MAXFLOW BAP, the Orange wire ties into the Purple wire with Green stripe off the fuel pump module. Orange-Purple\Green Fuel Pump Module. The Red wire ties into the "harness" side or the loom side Purple wire with Green stripe. You are simply cutting the Purple\Green wire from the module in half and completing the circuit with the Orange wire on the module side and Red wire on the harness side. The Black wire is ground. The thinner Brown wire is not used. I extended my Black, Orange and Red wires using 16g wire. I use ran the wire through a rubber 3/4 hose and through the hole above the BAP where the seat belt tensioner is. You have to remove the rear interior panel first. You route your wires along the existing loom. There is a factory chassis ground you can tie into if you follow this method. Secure the wires and tubing and wrap for a factory finish look.
The tubing will not labeled/marked. The fitment of the pipes is decent but clearances are tight around the drivers side headlight and passenger washer assembly. You have to play with the couplers and pipes once you get most of them installed for the best fit. I was missing two critical hoses in my kit. I was lucky enough to find them from a local shop. The throttle body assembly did not clear the coolant hose clamp and hose assembly.
I had to shave the plastic hose clamp off the coolant Y to IM and shave the TB solenoid assembly for clearance. If you shave the TB solenoid assembly, do not shave more than you have to.
The radiator shrouds on both sides need to be cut. I used a dremel and a grinding stone wheel. The top of the radiator cooling fan shroud needed to be shave flush with the lip on the radiator. If using a factory air box, the airbox will point to a slightly different angle and will not be inline with the supplied intake duct off the SC. You will need to play with your hoses and positioning. You have to shave the air box to clear the pipe. You will not re-use the front portion of the airbox. Use a little sealant around the "Paxton" block off plate on the top half of the airbox where the stock MAF was. You will also need to block off the smaller threaded portion of the Paxton tube with the supplied silver Hex nut. I use sealant around the threads.
Pick up some size 64 hose clamps and other various hose clamps (for smaller and larger coolant hoses) just in case. You will also need a tool or large snips to pinch the clamp tight if using the supplied clamps. Pick up extra 5/8 and 3/8 union barbs.
Hood clearance to blower was an issue. I trimmed the headliner and installed washers under the latch assembly. You can clock the blower but I did not need to. Make sure to use soft clay.
Will add/fill more later.....
Region: Denver Colorado 5400 Ft
Fuel: 91 Pump E85 in the future
Car: 2015 Magnetic Mustang GT 6sp, PP, Leather Recaros, Premium Package
Tires: MT ET Street 285/30/19 R 255/35/19 F
(UPDATE
NTO5R 305/35/19 Rear RE71R Front 2/9/16Parts Installed:
Ford Racing Taillight Panel
Black Emblems
JLT Catch Can
BMR Vertical Links
BMR Rear Sway Bar Soft Setting w/Factory front
Steeda Subframe Rear Brace
Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit
Steeda Sport Springs
Steeda Rear Subframe Bushing Reinforcement Kit
MBRP Street CBE W/H Pipe
Lund Tune Via SCT X4
Beefcake Special Paxton Kit Novi 2200 3.8 Pulley
ID1000 Injectors
NGK Plugs
Maxflow BAP
Steeda Gtrack Front Brace
Blowfish Tranny Bracket
DSS 800 HP Axles
MMR Billet OPG
MMR Billet Timing Gear
Amsoil MTF
Sound Tube Delete Kit
170 Deg. Thermostat
Lund SC tune
Grill Delete L/U
Forgestar F14s 19x10 Square (Installed)
Latest Update:
-After first calibration car experienced a no start condition. Reverting to previous calibration allowed start up check. Waiting on update from Lund. -Oct 1st. PM
-Revised calibration received. Car started. Idle and Neutral Rev logs sent. -Oct 3rd. AM
-Cruise Log sent -Oct 6th. AM
-Revised calibration received & loaded. Logs sent Calibration R2. -Oct 6th. PM
-Cruise w/WOT log sent. -Oct 7th. AM
-Final calibration received. -Oct 7th. PM
-Installation of 3.6 pulley and intake. Gap plugs at .028 from .032 -Nov 15th. AM
-Revised calibration received. -Nov 16th. PM
Car made it back to the dyno at Finish line performance. The dyno graph from that day is at the very bottom. 696rwhp 523rwtq
Installation Summary Oil Pump Gear:
Special Tools:
OTC 6667 Harmonic Damper Puller
MMR Installation Bolt
303-448 (T93P-6303-A) Crank Holding Tool
Caulking gun
Parts Used:
MMR oil pump gears
MMR Timing gear
Front cover gasket set (Its three parts, three different part numbers)
Valve cover gaskets (you may be able to re-use the old gasket)
Ford Sealant TA-30
Completed Project awaiting tune, dyno and additional media
The installation of MMR's oil pump gear and timing gear went smoothly. The removal process was simple and some of the parts removed such as the front bumper cover, undertray, engine covers etc, helped speed up the Paxton installation. Once the front cover was off, I used the Ford crank turning tool to rotate the crank clockwise until the timing marks on the chain and the indent R/L on the VCT lined up. You can turn the crank with less effort using the old bolt with two washer (crank). Install this before removing timing components.
The timing marks on each chain and vct never matched. I could only get either the left or right bank lined up with the vct and the timing gear sprocket at a given time. I marked the bank that did not line up using white out. You can then remove the chain guides and tensioner. I did not have to rotate the crank to release tension on the chains. Once the chain guides and tensioner are removed, you can rotate the chain around the sprocket. Once the chain is removed you can slide the timing gear off the crank with little to no effort.
You'll need to remove the oil pan pickup tube bolts. They are 10mm bolts. I found removal on the passenger side bolt simple. The drivers side bolt was difficult. There is not alot of work room. I used a 10mm ratcheting wrench. Once the bolt is loose you can turn it by finger. During re-installation, that same bolt was extremely difficult to get back on. One of the oil pan baffles restricts your access to the bolt unless its nearly hand tightened. This bolt is a lesson on patience. I used my fingers to get it started and went one increment at a time. When the bolt fell, I used a small telescoping magnet to pick it up. I recommend using a shop towel in the oil pan to "absorb" and catch the bolt when if falls.
Installing the actual gear set into the oil pump housing was simple. Lubricate the gears and install with logo facing you. Clean off both plates around the mating surface an install top cover plate using T20 bit. Tighten relatively tight by hand. Rotate gear set. Insure bind free operation. Install pump assembly.
Timing gear installation required force to slide over the crank shaft and keyway. The MMR timing gear has a tighter tolerance. Mine did not slide on like the factory gear. I used a soft rubber mallet to carefully bed the gear into position. Prior to installing the gear, I marked the gear with white out to match the marked factory gear. To double check your mark alignment, you can stack the factory gear and MMR gear and ensure the marks match the tooth on the each gear exactly.
Compressing the chain guide tensioner was done via a small bench mounted vice. My tensioners did not require any additional attention. I cut a piece of thick chicken wire and use them as holding pins. A small drill bit would work. You need a pin for both tensioners.
Installation Summary Paxton 2200SL:
The overall installation required moderate amounts of trimming, cutting and relocation. The instructions are a mix match of installation procedures and pictures that are not cohesive. Many are not from a 2015 GT. The manual provided will get you through most of the install but lacks accuracy in the detail and depiction of several steps.
BAP Wiring went smoothly. I suggest removing the rear seat bench first. Make sure you push the retaining clips in to release the bench. The clips are below the edge of the seat toward the front. I mounted my BAP in the trunk on the drivers side wheel well wall. You have to remove the carpet first. I mounted the box using strong velcro. On the MAXFLOW BAP, the Orange wire ties into the Purple wire with Green stripe off the fuel pump module. Orange-Purple\Green Fuel Pump Module. The Red wire ties into the "harness" side or the loom side Purple wire with Green stripe. You are simply cutting the Purple\Green wire from the module in half and completing the circuit with the Orange wire on the module side and Red wire on the harness side. The Black wire is ground. The thinner Brown wire is not used. I extended my Black, Orange and Red wires using 16g wire. I use ran the wire through a rubber 3/4 hose and through the hole above the BAP where the seat belt tensioner is. You have to remove the rear interior panel first. You route your wires along the existing loom. There is a factory chassis ground you can tie into if you follow this method. Secure the wires and tubing and wrap for a factory finish look.
The tubing will not labeled/marked. The fitment of the pipes is decent but clearances are tight around the drivers side headlight and passenger washer assembly. You have to play with the couplers and pipes once you get most of them installed for the best fit. I was missing two critical hoses in my kit. I was lucky enough to find them from a local shop. The throttle body assembly did not clear the coolant hose clamp and hose assembly.
I had to shave the plastic hose clamp off the coolant Y to IM and shave the TB solenoid assembly for clearance. If you shave the TB solenoid assembly, do not shave more than you have to.
The radiator shrouds on both sides need to be cut. I used a dremel and a grinding stone wheel. The top of the radiator cooling fan shroud needed to be shave flush with the lip on the radiator. If using a factory air box, the airbox will point to a slightly different angle and will not be inline with the supplied intake duct off the SC. You will need to play with your hoses and positioning. You have to shave the air box to clear the pipe. You will not re-use the front portion of the airbox. Use a little sealant around the "Paxton" block off plate on the top half of the airbox where the stock MAF was. You will also need to block off the smaller threaded portion of the Paxton tube with the supplied silver Hex nut. I use sealant around the threads.
Pick up some size 64 hose clamps and other various hose clamps (for smaller and larger coolant hoses) just in case. You will also need a tool or large snips to pinch the clamp tight if using the supplied clamps. Pick up extra 5/8 and 3/8 union barbs.
Hood clearance to blower was an issue. I trimmed the headliner and installed washers under the latch assembly. You can clock the blower but I did not need to. Make sure to use soft clay.
Will add/fill more later.....
Sponsored
Last edited:
