Jmeo's "Take 2" 2017 Auto Build

Yes! The gauges look freaking sweet!
Headers on your back sucks (done it far too many times). It's the one mod that's never fun lol.
Looks good!

angermgmt14 said:

Stop what your doing and put that car back to stock. Time to trade it in for the "new" '18.

Looking awesome Jaime!

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Thanks Dave

LOL, I'm gonna go on record here and say I absolutely love the new refresh and all the great new options that comes with it. I considered waiting but I didn't want to wait till the car came out then have to wait for a new Whipple tune to work with the 10 speed. I was in a time sensitive situation to trade in the 15' before its value got worse.

That said I have zero regrets, zero. I love my 17' and I will enjoy the hell out of it for a few years and wait for a complete redesign to decide when its time.

Terminated said:

Yes! The gauges look freaking sweet!
Headers on your back sucks (done it far too many times). It's the one mod that's never fun lol.
Looks good!

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Thanks Marcus, I appreciate it. I am very happy with the results and it's awesome how we both had a similar idea but executed differently. Kudos to you as well!

I've done hundreds of jobs without a lift over the years and its between headers and a transmission replacement that take the cake for worse jobs using jack stands :headbonk:

[MENTION=8761]Jmeo[/MENTION] Are you going to have this one done by fall 2017? I see you in a 10 Speed one soon LOL

Optimum Performance said:

[MENTION=8761]Jmeo[/MENTION] Are you going to have this one done by fall 2017? I see you in a 10 Speed one soon LOL

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Haha are we ever done????? I'm just waiting on the red blower to wrap everything up and I'll be hitting the streets shortly after. Assuming they are not buried in snow that is No 10 speed for me until I get a new complet redesigned mustang

Looking good J. Enjoying the visual progress of what you are doing. I'm considering the A-post pod as well but haven't figured what gauge(s) to put in. Keep up the good work and the sharing.

Jmeo said:

Thanks Dave

LOL, I'm gonna go on record here and say I absolutely love the new refresh and all the great new options that comes with it. I considered waiting but I didn't want to wait till the car came out then have to wait for a new Whipple tune to work with the 10 speed. I was in a time sensitive situation to trade in the 15' before its value got worse.

That said I have zero regrets, zero. I love my 17' and I will enjoy the hell out of it for a few years and wait for a complete redesign to decide when its time.

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10 Speed tuning will seemingly be the easy part... Direct Injection and higher compression are going to making boosting a challenge, too.

There will always be a newer, nicer model. Gotta enjoy what we've got!

Terminated said:

10 Speed tuning will seemingly be the easy part... Direct Injection and higher compression are going to making boosting a challenge, too.

There will always be a newer, nicer model. Gotta enjoy what we've got!

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Your absolutely right I failed to mention that. I didn't want to wait 8 month for the new car and who knows how many more for a tune to be made. That and there is a possibility at least one thing is different with the heads or intake making the parts I have now not able to fit. Just wasn't worth the risk on top of the value of the 2015 dropping

Nothing exciting, I just finally got around to Shawn's Whipple sound tube mod. There have been a few people who have done it but I couldn't find anyone who purchased specific parts. They all used parts they had lying around so I thought I would post up what I did and with what parts I used.

I picked these up from O'Riley Auto Parts. I was in search of a 1.5" OD radiator hose that at least 2 bends preferably 90º and also a hose barb to join two pieces together



First I drilled a hole in the airbox and pulled the hose through it. I purposely made the hole slightly smaller than the hose so it would hold itself in and also seal the hole at the same time.



Then I took the left over hose and eye balled it above the one coming from the airbox aligning them as close as possible to mark where to cut the end that will join the stock sound tube. I didn't keep the entire 90º turn, I cut he hose on an angle so it would mate up perfectly with the sound tube.



Now I plugged the hose into the sound tube and marked where the two hoses come together best and cut it there.



Here they are lined up and this is the hose barb to join them together.



I cut the barb short because it was killing me trying to sink it in flush and honestly there is no reason to need the entire barb because there is zero fluid coming through the hose and there will never be enough forces to separate them anyway.



Viola', finished product







I will be covering the connection point with gaffers tape but for now I will not be clamping or taping the connection to the sound tube because its there quite well and I want to be able to pull it apart easily if I ever need to remove the airbox. I think it makes an overall more stock like appearance.



My only advice is to make the hole a little lower than I did. As I was drilling the hole from the inside of the box outward I was trying not to drill into the reservoir hoses I didn't pay enough attention and the top of the hole is just touching the beveled edge where the lid attaches. There is no issue or concern as the lid closes perfectly it's just something I would have done differently had I noticed.



This was super easy, I'd say from start to finish it took me 20 min (once the supplies were figured out).

Nice job Jaime.
You're killing it bro!

Continuing on with my air box I finished Shawn's ingenious idea to enclose the box. These pictures aren't the greatest but you can see I used "double bubble" to shape the box and a combination of aluminum duct tape and Gorilla tape to get it done. I like the Gorilla tape to pretty much water proof everything. Combined with my "big Mouth" and my custom opened grill the air will be force fed directly into the air box and the heat from within the engine compartment will not be sucked into the filter. That and I now have the plastic MAF housing should keep IAT's down.

I made the snout off the air box in such a way I can reach in and slide the cut off factory snout forward to connect to the grill. If I want to remove the air box I just have to pop the cover off. reach in and pull the factory cut snout off the grill and lift the box out of the car.

















Enclosed & sound tube

Since I tinted my windows 20% I lost some night time backing up visibility. I was using Diode Dynamics reverse light but found this bad boy a little while ago and asked Santa for it and wouldn't you know the jolly old guy brought me one lol.



Install for most people will be plug and play but lucky me had to drop the rear bumper :frusty: My TruFiber valance relocated the light higher up closer to the license plate so accessing the upper screws was not possible any other way. I also had to trim the shock bumper under the cover a bit as well but it came out great.





I tried so many different ways to capture a picture of this thing lit but it is so bright I couldn't accurately do it. Here is the best I could get with my iPhone and let me tell you it is crazy how bright this thing is at 2500 lumens :eyebulge:.

Jmeo said:

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That's very bright! Should be good to go now.

Hey Jamie love the box buddy nice job! And now you got me looking at that backup light

Damn you Jaime, you made me buy that reverse light. Looking forward to 'seeing' how that works. Good talking with you.