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Mootang

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Just for clarity, it's not a threaded bearing in the mount. There is a nut that goes down into the bearing. The tolerance on the nut is VERY close. When installing, it's important to ensure that nut goes all the way in or you may be getting noise from it moving.
Yes, I notice that! Especially with the spacer, I had the Roush mounts and it didn't require a spacer, so I was able to install the two locking nuts on top of it, but these Vikings have only the nut that goes through the bearing. I screwed in the just the nut and it does go all the way down, but the second nut had some issues. I would only go down after about a full turn and then stop on both shock. Saw that there were some metal still on the thread that a brush cleaning wouldn't be able to take out. So I ended up using a flat head to pry it out. Worked and the nut went in fine until the end, it would stop again. Took anther look and it appeared to be clean. Figure I installed it with the space and shock mount as per instructions. Ended up fitting just right, but was a little tight at the end again. Tighten it down some more and it those appear to be tightly on there. Played it the shock a little bit and upon twisting the shock mount a little, the nut came loose again after some twist. So I tighten again, but a little tighter and installed it. Hear some clicking noise 1/4 mile later and went back to check my suspension. Everything is down to spec and figure it was the shock mount nut again. Cleaned up shop and called Steeda for a nut to see if that is the issue now.
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tevaburns

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HOLY CRAP. these steeda mounts work. My car is just as stiff as before but the vomit inducing oscillation that can happen on certain roads is now GONE!

Install was very easy, I did not even remove the shocks from the car.
 

Mootang

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Just for clarity, it's not a threaded bearing in the mount. There is a nut that goes down into the bearing. The tolerance on the nut is VERY close. When installing, it's important to ensure that nut goes all the way in or you may be getting noise from it moving.
So, update on my clickility clack noise issue. Lifted her up and the the nut was loose by two full turns :eyebulge:. I shouldn't driven it more when I heard it the first time, my fault. I went ahead and decide to fix this myself because I was impatience and didn't want to wait for another nut to be shipped out from Steeda :D.

Long story short, I removed the mount and tried screwing the nut all the down the shock. Didn't screw all the way down and stopped at the end. Got my tap kit out, tapped it, and issue solved. Now I am feeling the Steeda mounts working :headbang:


 
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jbailer

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So, update on my clickility clack noise issue. Lifted her up and the the nut was loose by two full turns :eyebulge:. I shouldn't driven it more when I heard it the first time, my fault. I went ahead and decide to fix this myself because I was impatience and didn't want to wait for another nut to be shipped out from Steeda :D.

Long story short, I removed the mount and tried screwing the nut all the down the shock. Didn't screw all the way down and stopped at the end. Got my tap kit out, tapped it, and issue solved. Now I am feeling the Steeda mounts working :headbang:
Awesome, glad it's working out for you! Because the tolerance is tight between that nut and the mount, I turn the nut onto the shock rod by hand and lift the mount with the other hand up to the top of the nut to keep it free so it doesn't bind.
 

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I wish I had seen this thread when I ordered my suspension parts. I did a lot of suspension upgrades and the ride is soooo much better than stock, but I still have a hint of bounce/oscillation. I have not done strut mounts, but those are next on my to-do list.
 

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Bumping this up to see if there is anymore info.

I have the @SteedaTech pro action adjustable shocks, linear springs, camber plates, adjustable bump stops and rear billet shock mounts and still have some bounciness to the ride. On smooth roads it drives awesome, on semi rough roads it soaks up the imperfections nicely for what it is, but I can't help but notice alot of bounce to the ride. As others have pointed out in this thread, the ride does settle back down quickly and doesn't keep bouncing for extended periods of times, but I can't help but notice the "springy-ness" of the suspension.

I have tried playing with the rebound settings a bit, but haven't really found a combination that works well. Right now I am at half turn from soft in the rear and a quarter turn from soft in the front.

Any help would be appreciated as it seems I have all the right hardware for this but still experience bounce.
 

Bluemustang

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Bumping this up to see if there is anymore info.

I have the @SteedaTech pro action adjustable shocks, linear springs, camber plates, adjustable bump stops and rear billet shock mounts and still have some bounciness to the ride. On smooth roads it drives awesome, on semi rough roads it soaks up the imperfections nicely for what it is, but I can't help but notice alot of bounce to the ride. As others have pointed out in this thread, the ride does settle back down quickly and doesn't keep bouncing for extended periods of times, but I can't help but notice the "springy-ness" of the suspension.

I have tried playing with the rebound settings a bit, but haven't really found a combination that works well. Right now I am at half turn from soft in the rear and a quarter turn from soft in the front.

Any help would be appreciated as it seems I have all the right hardware for this but still experience bounce.
The first thing I would say is that the "bouncy ride" is often confusing to many. There is a factor of - stiffer suspension, better response - could be what you're getting. Where the problem lies and what I think most ppl complain about is oscillation. If it continues to oscillate instead of settling down quickly, that's your issue. It could be that it's just the road and your stiffer more responsive suspension.

There's also the potential for there to be some bind in the suspension which is causing this. It sounds like to me that it just might be the way it is. I have some "bounciness" to the ride but that's because of my modified suspension. Any oscillation I had is gone with the billet shock mounts and control arm bearings.
 

EFI

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The first thing I would say is that the "bouncy ride" is often confusing to many. There is a factor of - stiffer suspension, better response - could be what you're getting. Where the problem lies and what I think most ppl complain about is oscillation. If it continues to oscillate instead of settling down quickly, that's your issue. It could be that it's just the road and your stiffer more responsive suspension.

There's also the potential for there to be some bind in the suspension which is causing this. It sounds like to me that it just might be the way it is. I have some "bounciness" to the ride but that's because of my modified suspension. Any oscillation I had is gone with the billet shock mounts and control arm bearings.
Hmm, that's a good point. And I do understand that there will be some downsides to a stiffer suspension...it's just that it doesn't seem to be consistent. Sometimes the ride is great, sometimes it's not. I've had stiff suspensions in the past where the ride was rough anytime the road wasn't 100% smooth...ok so that's a stiff suspension for ya. I've had soft suspensions that was great all the time...ok that's a stock suspension for ya.

But this one is different, on some rough roads it drives like a dump truck with 300k miles on it and on other rough roads it drives like a brand new caddy. That's what makes me wonder if something else is going on, because overall the suspension is settled enough to soak up road imperfections, but when there's dips or uneven pavement it jumps up like it's on a pogo stick.
 

BmacIL

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Bumping this up to see if there is anymore info.

I have the @SteedaTech pro action adjustable shocks, linear springs, camber plates, adjustable bump stops and rear billet shock mounts and still have some bounciness to the ride. On smooth roads it drives awesome, on semi rough roads it soaks up the imperfections nicely for what it is, but I can't help but notice alot of bounce to the ride. As others have pointed out in this thread, the ride does settle back down quickly and doesn't keep bouncing for extended periods of times, but I can't help but notice the "springy-ness" of the suspension.

I have tried playing with the rebound settings a bit, but haven't really found a combination that works well. Right now I am at half turn from soft in the rear and a quarter turn from soft in the front.

Any help would be appreciated as it seems I have all the right hardware for this but still experience bounce.
I don't think you have near enough damping. Try closer to 1-1.5 turns, with slightly less in the rear.

The other thing is a lot of the bushings in the suspension contribute to the bouncy feel, even being stiff.
 

Bluemustang

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Hmm, that's a good point. And I do understand that there will be some downsides to a stiffer suspension...it's just that it doesn't seem to be consistent. Sometimes the ride is great, sometimes it's not. I've had stiff suspensions in the past where the ride was rough anytime the road wasn't 100% smooth...ok so that's a stiff suspension for ya. I've had soft suspensions that was great all the time...ok that's a stock suspension for ya.

But this one is different, on some rough roads it drives like a dump truck with 300k miles on it and on other rough roads it drives like a brand new caddy. That's what makes me wonder if something else is going on, because overall the suspension is settled enough to soak up road imperfections, but when there's dips or uneven pavement it jumps up like it's on a pogo stick.
OK, now that I hear that I agree with @BmacIL. You don't have enough damping - increase the rebound.

Another good mod for down the road, although this somewhat unrelated - upgrade the front control arms. After I did that, the ride on the front improved a lot. The front suspension articulation is so much better and more settled. Removing bind in the suspension has very good effects on the ride imo.
 

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@EFI

Yes, like Bmac said you need to increase rebound dramatically. For reference, my fixed dampers are equivilent to 1.5 turns from soft; I don’t have the issues you’re speaking of and I have the more aggressive Ultralite linears. In fact, sometimes I yearn for more rebound, although too much could result in unannounced traction loss.

Be sure you have the correct bumpstops (short-stack) installed, and that your bushings were clocked during your alignment as well.

What tires do you have and at what pressures? This can surely play a role.

Lastly, like BlueMustang said, the road has a lot to say with bumps and perceived oscillations. If you’re driving the same road every day and compulsively analyzing your ride, try going out for a long drive to see if your opinion changes. Sometimes I think my ride is a little too stiff due to my terrible commute roads, but once I travel anywhere else I’m reminded how nice the car really rides.
 

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@BmacIL, @Mootang,

I have been using the Roush V3 shocks/struts on my car for a few years and I have changed springs front and rear to various ones stiffer than what came originally with the V3 kit. Based on motion ratios, corner weights and how much the suspension compressed from full extension I calculated the Roush front rate at about 300 lb and rear at 900 lb at rest. Currently, I have Steeda DR rear springs and 450 lb race springs up front and have been experimenting with optimizing the ride through shock adjustments.

What I have found is there is a knee, or call it a cliff, in the rebound settings with these shocks where if it is too high it will cause a bouncy, jarring ride like what I've read about in this thread. Below that point and the ride is quite good.

What is weird about that to me is I would have thought a lack of rebound control would cause a bouncy, jarring ride. IOW, rebound too soft allowing the springs to recover off bumps with less control. So, why does coming down from a high rebound setting with these shocks improve the ride? Is the setting actually marked the opposite of what it is doing?

The compression settings do what I would expect them to do: react to my braking and throttle inputs in regards to squat and dive and how much input the tires can handle per how hard I'm hitting the pedals and overall how cushy (or not) the ride is.

Maybe the V1 non-adjustable shocks have the rebound too high for the springs they come with.
 

Norm Peterson

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Too much rebound damping slows the recovery of the wheel/tire out of 'bump', so the tire then crashes into the next little bump or unevenness harder than it would if the wheel/tire was permitted to recover to/toward its 'static position' a little more quickly.

I think the stiffer you go with the spring, the narrower the tolerance band between not enough damping and too much gets, at least as far as this ride quality matter is concerned.


Norm
 

SteveW

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Too much rebound damping slows the recovery of the wheel/tire out of 'bump', so the tire then crashes into the next little bump or unevenness harder than it would if the wheel/tire was permitted to recover to/toward its 'static position' a little more quickly.

I think the stiffer you go with the spring, the narrower the tolerance band between not enough damping and too much gets, at least as far as this ride quality matter is concerned.


Norm
Gotcha, that all makes sense.
 

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Thanks guys, I'll try playing around with more of the rebound settings and maybe the swaybars also as I think I may have them too stiff.

The one thing I saw mentioned (and just now found the huge BMR thread on) is about clocking of the bushings, which I definitely didn't do. I wonder if that could ultimately be the cause of this and if it's possible to do after the car being aligned.
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