Another engine oil thread ... What do you use?

3rd oil change at 15,000 miles

Coyote Red said:

I've researched this subject and have come to the conclusion that Pennzoil "made from natural gas" 5w30 8qts. with a 1/2 qt. Lucas oil stabilizer is the best route for my wallet. I use the Ford "Racing" oil filter for the increased capacity and "bypass feature". Upon my last change the 8 qts. wasn't full so I added Lucas to top it off. Works for me, I did the research. Best bang for the buck!

Click to expand...

So this thread is very informative and I am constantly learning as I do R&D on this motor & platform. The Ford Racing filter holds an additional 1/2 qt and I went to 6,000 miles on this change. My "oil life" indicator was at 30% life left.
I had a synthetic ultra Fram oil filter I purchased before learning about the Ford Racing oil filter's capabilities. This change I am using Castrol "Magnatec" 5w20w 7 qts & Lucas synthetic stabilizer 1 qt. due to not using the Ford Racing filter. Let's keep this informative thread going! Thank's Guys. Bump!

What's the difference on the Ford racing filter? If there's different bypass valves, you might want to strongly consider not using it for daily driving since you would allow more wear during easy driving.

Wish these engines were like the "86". Toyota was smart putting the filter inverted on the engine, being able to change the filter whenever you want in my opinion is an awesome feature.

DanielLD said:

What's the difference on the Ford racing filter? If there's different bypass valves, you might want to strongly consider not using it for daily driving since you would allow more wear during easy driving.

Wish these engines were like the "86". Toyota was smart putting the filter inverted on the engine, being able to change the filter whenever you want in my opinion is an awesome feature.

Click to expand...

It has a higher psi before going into bypass. It flows more than the fram ultra xg2's. I've posted it's stats before. It's a revised fl820. The OE fl820 flows more than the fl500 Ford specs for it from the factory.

Here we are

mustang_guy said:

the specs on both clearly show its not just an overpriced filter

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
* Overall Height - 3.99"
* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
* Filter Element Height - 2.81"
* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.73"
* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
* Media thickness - 0.029"
* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicon



Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 4.05"
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.51"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
* Media thickness - 0.035"
* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
* Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

Click to expand...

mustang_guy said:

Lower bypass mean its stops filter oil sooner. The ford racing kicks its ass in flow even before going into bypass.

however the
oil viscosity during the Ford Racing filter delta-p test is missing, which is an important factor. Ive been given good reason to believe these amazing results were achieved with 5w50. However i regrettably cant say by whom. Youll be hard pressed to find a better filter.

Click to expand...

Mustang guy, do you have the filtration data? I'd be more interested in the filter rating for particle size. I've seen similar in GT-R's problem is the filter usually goes up to 50-60 microns. But if it's filtering the same particles with a higher bypass valve setting, all the more for it.

20 micron at 99%

Hello all...I briefly looked through this thread and am still contemplating ford dealer oil or some other brand (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil). I have my first 5k oil change scheduled for tomorrow. The car is used as a secondary daily driver ( driven on nice weekend days and occasionally 1-2 days a week. No track racing and no mods...yet. Let me know what you guys think....thanks

Pmauoo said:

Hello all...I briefly looked through this thread and am still contemplating ford dealer oil or some other brand (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil). I have my first 5k oil change scheduled for tomorrow. The car is used as a secondary daily driver ( driven on nice weekend days and occasionally 1-2 days a week. No track racing and no mods...yet. Let me know what you guys think....thanks

Click to expand...

As ive stated early Mobil tends to have a much higher burn off rate in my experience, especially in higher revving engines like a coyote. Daniel says the EP version is better. It might not suffer it. I personally would use Pennzoil over the brand's listed.

Ok,.thanks mustang guy. Which Pennzoil would you recommend?

Pmauoo said:

Ok,.thanks mustang guy. Which Pennzoil would you recommend?

Click to expand...

Ultra. But at the price it costs since its hard to get (I think they discontinued it) and that it's not really good for more then 5000-7500 miles you might as well switch to RLI that's been talked about or Amsoil. You could use Pennzoil platinum still. I'd get Daniels thoughts as well and then decide based on your needs. I'd use the Ford racing filter or the Fram ultra xg2.

I prefer the Ford racing filter due to its bypass valve being in the proper location the inlet and outlet end. Typically but not always, less costly filters tend to have the bypass valve on the closed end. Filters with closed end bypass valves pass oil that is bypassing the filter over the dirty side of the filter element, whereas filters that bypass at the threaded (inlet/outlet) end don’t require the bypassing oil to pass over the dirty filter element.

Don't misunderstand the ultra is a great filter I just prefer this other design for stated reasons above

Where can I get RLI or amsoil? My car is scheduled to go in tomorrow so, looking to pick something up today.....if possible

Pmauoo said:

Where can I get RLI or amsoil? My car is scheduled to go in tomorrow so, looking to pick something up today.....if possible

Click to expand...

You missed my edit on that post. Online only. Amsoil is cheaper with the yearly membership than not doing it. I wouldn't run either unless you plan on 10-15k or one year whichever happens first OR the car sits a lot. 10k for RLI and 15k for amsoil signature series. If you have no plans for that and plan on 5k intervals and need to save some cash I'd use the OE Motorcraft FL820, it flows better over the FL500. Both of these motorcraft filters and Pennzoil platinum (5qt jugs) can be bought at walmart.

mustang_guy said:

20 micron at 99%

Click to expand...

do you know what's the stock filter?

Pmauoo said:

Hello all...I briefly looked through this thread and am still contemplating ford dealer oil or some other brand (Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil). I have my first 5k oil change scheduled for tomorrow. The car is used as a secondary daily driver ( driven on nice weekend days and occasionally 1-2 days a week. No track racing and no mods...yet. Let me know what you guys think....thanks

Click to expand...

Often times I hear this question. It is best answered with a easy answer. If you care about nothing else(wear, etc) and only cared about fuel economy, then the answer is easy. The RLI over the Mobil 1, provided a 7% fuel economy gain in my 5.0L RC F engine(2UR-GSE) which is similar in many ways in design to the coyote.

On to the better stuff. The wear using the RLI versus Mobil 1 was close to a 40% overall reduction. 40% we're talking about.

Overall power was a bit better as well, this is due to the seal between the piston rings and the cylinder being stronger. Granted you're not gaining 40 horse on this thing, but on a turbo charged GT R, the dyno testing we did on those FI cars showed the ring seal was extremely important.

Problem is RLI's PCMO is not the same as their HDMO, I don't know why in particular, other than I have a civic that I tested RLI in and it just didn't perform as well as the HDMO Low Ash versions. You can't buy HDMO in anything less than a 5W30, which I wouldn't recommend for this engine.

If this is a daily driver with moderate redlining and no track usage. Then a 0W20 would do extremely well, I'd suggest the M1EP 0W20 with the WIX XP filter and a quality fuel. A few coyotes I've tested that involved street drag racing but no track time had substantial drops in wear ditching the 5W30 behind. The difference between a 5W30 and a 0W20 at temperature is minimal, at start up, it's a world of a difference. Most of your wear occurs at start up, not redline.

edit: dealer oil is going to allow for a lot of needless wear to occur and likely won't be able to properly reduce deposits on your valves over time. A lot of using a quality oil isn't about today or tomorrow, it's about a few months and years down the road.

I don't know of every Ford filter for sale, so Mustang Guy may have better filter suggestions. Overall though the XP is super hard to beat and too many vehicles from GT R's, Prii, etc have responded very well to it. Only UOA can really determine the best filter, the XP is a good starting place if you can't afford UOA.