RF Punch in doors?

POOPonYOU said:

Should subs be front or rear facing?

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Personal preference. If you look at Zenclosures, they make front and back. Some say front way is tighter, and bouncing off back of trunk is more boomy. Front makes the trunk look cleaner, I'm going to do rear.

http://www.zenclosures.com/Mustang-s/59.htm

chipmaker said:

Personal preference. If you look at Zenclosures, they make front and back. Some say front way is tighter, and bouncing off back of trunk is more boomy. Front makes the trunk look cleaner, I'm going to do rear.

http://www.zenclosures.com/Mustang-s/59.htm

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Do you plan on buying the acoustic fill for tree box?

POOPonYOU said:

Do you plan on buying the acoustic fill for tree box?

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I already have some at home. I will use if I think it needs it. Ill try without first.

I installed the Rockford 6.5 components. The tweeter made a big difference but I can't really hear the 6.5 mid driver. I'm powering it with a p400x2 and have a soundqubed 10" sub being powered by a p1000×. Great amps they've never turned off even on 12 hour trips.

15dib said:

I installed the Rockford 6.5 components. The tweeter made a big difference but I can't really hear the 6.5 mid driver. I'm powering it with a p400x2 and have a soundqubed 10" sub being powered by a p1000×. Great amps they've never turned off even on 12 hour trips.

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Im running a SoundQubed 1200.2 pushing 2 12" Sundowns in my Tahoe. Good stuff.

If you don't hear the 6.5's, what are you hearing up front for highs? The 3.25 and tweeter? Are you still using the center speaker?

I disconnected the center speaker because it sounded really muddy. The tweeter in the a pillar are what I hear the most followed by the 3.5 stockers. The 6.5s are just so low physically that you can't hear them, poor design if you ask me. I'm thinking of replacing the 3.5s later to see how it sounds.

15dib said:

I disconnected the center speaker because it sounded really muddy. The tweeter in the a pillar are what I hear the most followed by the 3.5 stockers. The 6.5s are just so low physically that you can't hear them, poor design if you ask me. I'm thinking of replacing the 3.5s later to see how it sounds.

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I came from the Camaro world, I had a 10 SS2/RS. In those, the first thing you do is unhook center speaker. In the Mustang, it really sounds like it is doing all the work. I tried to find info for replacing 3.5s, but there is not too much out there.

Hey! From what I've read on this forum, and my personal experience, it is best to leave the stock 6.5 woofers in the doors stock. The reason is that they are only being sent a low frequency signal for bass, you don't get any vocals or highs. I tried using a Dayton Audio woofer for the 6.5, but it didn't help at all. I sought some help from Parts express, and they told me to use a woofer with sensitivity over 90db, and the QTS for car door applications is suggested to be minimum 0.4 and above.

Honestly, I haven't found the chance to fiddle with it again, I ended wasting 3 woofers. I will try again, though. But if you're thinking of replacing the 6.5" door woofers with any speaker from RF, JBL, etc., I'd suggest you stick with stock! Otherwise, the result is opposite! You are bound to lose out on bass that you get from the stock woofers instead of gaining some.

Cheers!

Well I'm powering the rf punch components with a rf punch 400x2, so it's a little different. I think it's just the location. I've be wanting to try some 6.5 subs or even some 8" shallows in there but I've just been to lazy lol. I'm probably going to install a 3.5 speaker in the middle sometime in the future, but I'm trying to find an 8 ohm since it would be powered by the stock amp and I don't want it to over power my tweeters.

Oh! That's a totally different thing, then! Since you'll be bypassing the stock amp, you'll be able to get better output from the components. But I'd highly recommended that you replace the 3.5" in the doors. It makes a huge difference! For the centre channel, I just installed a full-range driver that I picked up from Parts Express. It is 8ohms and easily fixes the muddy sound.

I would also say that it depends on what system you have on how you treat the 6.5. For me, I have the base 6 speaker, no external amp system so it is a critical component. The duties performed certainly differ when you have the 9 speaker system.

When I had an f150, I installed the 6.5 where the 6x8 were and the tweeter where the a pillar was at and it sounded much better. I'll take a look at that website to find me a 3.5 driver. And what did you use for the 3.5s in the door?

15dib said:

When I had an f150, I installed the 6.5 where the 6x8 were and the tweeter where the a pillar was at and it sounded much better. I'll take a look at that website to find me a 3.5 driver. And what did you use for the 3.5s in the door?

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I used the Infinity REF 3022 for the doors. Couldn't be happier! I had to disconnect the tweeters to avoid mismatched impedance, but I can certainly say that the Infinity speakers fill that void. For the center I used Tymphany by Peerless which I picked up from Parts Express. It complements the entire system very well!

Stock center, and my replacement. Sounds great.
Second pic is stock speaker specs for reference.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/25158971@N03/e946sW

https://www.flickr.com/gp/25158971@N03/q3900U

What I learned this morning.

1. The 3.5s are doing the bulk of the musical work in the door.
2. As stated above, using the stock amps, just bass is going to 6.5.
3. The RF 6.5s don't help at all in the bass dept., but do play cleaner.
4. RFs not really worth the work. Not sure what will play low and fit the that shallow space.
5. Playing music with the 6.5s disconnected doesn't make alot of difference when radio is cranked up. You can crank the bass and the sub shines, sorta.
6. I would love to find some great 3.5s, and center speaker.
7. I need to find a 'how to' for replacing the center speaker.