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GT350 FORScan Tweaks

kgschrader

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Kirby,
Ford (dealer) tells me there is one big harness for the aft end and it will plug into both sides. I believe this to be true. The two wires from the LH side and the two wires from the RH side all come into C405 (the connector attached to the evap; also the L/R exhaust solenoid wires come through C405 (and a ground wire)).
The harness that leads to C405 (on evap), comes through the trunk at the very back. Unscrew the four strap/tie down anchors, pull the trim bottom fwd, and then pull up. You'll see the harness penetrating the floor. The temp sensor harness comes down the left side and then, I'm guessing, goes under the back seat and through the floor.

I just connected all the leads from C264 and C215 to the pump and heated the sensor to 232F and the pump did not start. I am going to post in the diff cooler thread. Majorly disappointed.
That routing makes sense based on the other information.
Trouble is, that's a $500 harness from what I've seen...

As for the pump starting, did you have it hooked up prior to starting the car? Everything I've read about the PWM circuits seems to indicate that when the car is first started, the pump gets a full on signal to get it started, then it will go to the modulated state.
I've read that the pump will have too much initial startup 'friction' and won't just gradually turn on.

So, a further experiment would be to wire everything up like you had it, then start the car. I don't know that this works, just suggesting based on other information I've read. After all, it has one pin called RUN/START. Seems to hint at the above, also.

Good luck!
Kirby
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barstowpo

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You guys are amazing. I couldn't begin to figure this stuff out.
 
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jwb

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That routing makes sense based on the other information.
Trouble is, that's a $500 harness from what I've seen...

As for the pump starting, did you have it hooked up prior to starting the car? Everything I've read about the PWM circuits seems to indicate that when the car is first started, the pump gets a full on signal to get it started, then it will go to the modulated state.
I've read that the pump will have too much initial startup 'friction' and won't just gradually turn on.

So, a further experiment would be to wire everything up like you had it, then start the car. I don't know that this works, just suggesting based on other information I've read. After all, it has one pin called RUN/START. Seems to hint at the above, also.

Good luck!
Kirby
Thanks Kirby,
I did connect everything with power off so I could double check before powering on. [MENTION=26358]mkonrad[/MENTION] did provide some insight/help on the OEM Diff Cooler thread. Perhaps the system needs to sit with the connections for a decent amount of time. I know some system things require time to "reset." Maybe this too. Also, before I tried the full up test, I did get voltage across the Batt and run/start leads. So I was optimistic.
Makes sense that the motor would start with full (width) voltage to overcome static friction and gain a little momentum. I would think that would happen when the oil temp hits its target; maybe not at engine start up.
Thanks,
John
 

her5oh

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TPMS

Hey folks, I used ForScan to turn off the TPMS light on my F150, but I am trying to figure out how to do so on my 16 GT. Does anyone have any insight?
The F150 was 726-22-01 x0xx xxxx xxxx but that did not work on the Mustang.

Thanks in advance.
 

Leonard

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I just put air in my tires and that takes care of the TPMS light.

Hey folks, I used ForScan to turn off the TPMS light on my F150, but I am trying to figure out how to do so on my 16 GT. Does anyone have any insight?
The F150 was 726-22-01 x0xx xxxx xxxx but that did not work on the Mustang.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Gilby

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Anyone in NE ohio that might want to help me do this? I can buy beer, ha ha. I'd love to get the trans temp on the screen so I can monitor it.
 

Tank

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Mustang_GT

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Check sum

Ok guys I finally started playing with As Built. Looking to change my Splash screen and shut down screen to the GT one. I can switch it over in diagnosis but it doesn't stay on a restart. I know the strings to change but .....
---------------------------------------------------------------------

So tried to use FORSCAN to change my Splash screen to the GT screen but can't fingure out how to change it. I can see the string but:

7D0-03-01 xxxx x4xx xxxx
7DO-02-01 XXXX XDXX XXXX (Mine has other digits in it)

If I change my string to that above, I get a check sum error message in a pop up window asking me to verify. I opted out on the change until I get an answer if I am doing this correctly.

Help
The check sum will be corrected by FORScan automatically.
 

VOODOO 6G

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Anyone in NE ohio that might want to help me do this? I can buy beer, ha ha. I'd love to get the trans temp on the screen so I can monitor it.
Where you at in N.E. Ohio? I'm in Randolph and am planning to do my car soon.
 

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TxOilMoney

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I finally got around to some "tweaking" using the posted instructions. I was successful in deleting sound enhancement, double horn when exiting, and added the red splash screen and trans. temp to my gauges. But for some reason, I can't disable the seat belt chimes. I've tried with forscan and with the instructions in the owners manual. Each time, I get the 4 blinks at the end, which is the acknowledgement of a successful change. However, it still chimes. Any ideas?
 

Helmet

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I finally got around to some "tweaking" using the posted instructions. I was successful in deleting sound enhancement, double horn when exiting, and added the red splash screen and trans. temp to my gauges. But for some reason, I can't disable the seat belt chimes. I've tried with forscan and with the instructions in the owners manual. Each time, I get the 4 blinks at the end, which is the acknowledgement of a successful change. However, it still chimes. Any ideas?
Have you tried buckling up? :lol:
 

kartguy898

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Any chance there is a setting to change the forward speed at which the rearview camera display shuts off on the (Sync) screen?
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