IAT showing excessive heat

s550v6 · May 20, 2017

Hey guys,

I intalled a GT throttle body and a new 3.5inch diameter aluminum intake pipe that goes from the air box to the throttle body. My IAT have been about 10 degrees above normal ever since, which I did not think was an issue. Fast forward to the last three days, all over 90 degrees ambient air temp, and my IAT after sitting in traffic spiked at 150 degrees(!!!!!!).

So my post is an effort to answer 2 questions:

Is this the actual incoming air temperature or just the inlet temperature?

Will wrapping my aluminum pipe in header wrap or some reflective heat wrap help to keep the pipe cooler from the hot air trapped under my hood, thus keeping my incoming air cooler?

I was thinking header wrap was a good idea even though it is primarily used to INSULATE headers, I figured it would function as a barrier between the hot under hood air and my pipe.

Any advice is welcome please!!

DANA44 · May 20, 2017

As a reference I am just north of you spirted driving past Thursday air temp 98, inlet manifold temp 120. Stock air box and Ford heat shield that I added on passenger side stock cast exhaust.

The inlet air temp reading is measured deep within the manifold as opposed to an inlet tube before the TB. As a result it will be a higher but true reading than that of a MAF set will indicate as our cars are speed density.

At low rpm and the plate closed off on the TB I wonder how much breathing is through the PVC that would be hot.

Fuse · May 20, 2017

Seems normal to me. 95 degrees the other day and my IAT was 146 with traffic. I have the JLT cai though and I'm just across the river from Manhattan.

s550v6 · May 21, 2017

Fuse said:
Seems normal to me. 95 degrees the other day and my IAT was 146 with traffic. I have the JLT cai though and I'm just across the river from Manhattan.

That does give me some comfort knowing I'm not the only one with these IATs. I bought some DEI Reflect-A-Gold hight temp heat tape so I'll see if this brings me back down to the 120 range when the next hot day rolls around. looks like I'm alright for now, I'm only seeing 30-40 above ambient in bad traffic today and the ambient temp is around 70 so not terrible.

I just thought this was an issue since before I switched my intake pipe and throttle body out I was seeing 125 MAX so i figured 150-160 was definitely an issue.

whatdoyoufeedit? · May 21, 2017

No need to get too wrapped up on IATs (especially with summer popping up). Have you considered the Velossatech snorkel? It helps dramatically with IATs and looks phenomenal.

s550v6 · May 21, 2017

whatdoyoufeedit? said:
No need to get too wrapped up on IATs (especially with summer popping up). Have you considered the Velossatech snorkel? It helps dramatically with IATs and looks phenomenal.

I have one sitting at home awaiting a GT grill since it wasn't fitting properly with my stock V6 grill. The few times I drove with it I did notice a few interesting benefits so it may be worth getting a grill delete and throwing that back on! Thanks for the idea!

whatdoyoufeedit? · May 21, 2017

s550v6 said:
I have one sitting at home awaiting a GT grill since it wasn't fitting properly with my stock V6 grill. The few times I drove with it I did notice a few interesting benefits so it may be worth getting a grill delete and throwing that back on! Thanks for the idea!

They can be had fairly cheaply on ebay. The GT grill is so much better made than the base grill: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2016-Ford-Mustang-GT-5-0-Upper-Radiator-Front-Grille-Black-OEM-FR3Z-8200-BA-/321749740251?fits=Year%3A2015%7CModel%3AMustang%7CSubmodel%3AGT&hash=item4ae9c76adb:g

w4AAOSweW5VTRq~&vxp=mtr

soldier989 · May 21, 2017

Even with the velossatech big mouth, my IAT temps reach in the 140s if I run the car then stop it for like 10+ mins (say for shopping) and then get back into it. While stopped, the plastic manifold soaks in the heat from the engine since there's no air moving to cool it down. Once the car is moving again, going WOT and sucking up ambient air will get the IAT number back down.

RedRyan98 · May 21, 2017

s550v6 said:
Hey guys,

I intalled a GT throttle body and a new 3.5inch diameter aluminum intake pipe that goes from the air box to the throttle body. My IAT have been about 10 degrees above normal ever since, which I did not think was an issue. Fast forward to the last three days, all over 90 degrees ambient air temp, and my IAT after sitting in traffic spiked at 150 degrees(!!!!!!).

So my post is an effort to answer 2 questions:

Is this the actual incoming air temperature or just the inlet temperature?

Will wrapping my aluminum pipe in header wrap or some reflective heat wrap help to keep the pipe cooler from the hot air trapped under my hood, thus keeping my incoming air cooler?

I was thinking header wrap was a good idea even though it is primarily used to INSULATE headers, I figured it would function as a barrier between the hot under hood air and my pipe.

Any advice is welcome please!!

I don't mean to go off topic, but do you have a link for the adapter you used? I want to do the GT throttle body upgrade on mine and this is the only thing really holding me up? I'd like a pipe that has the fittings for the two tubes that go into the stock intake.

Thanks!

soldier989 · May 21, 2017

RedRyan98 said:
I don't mean to go off topic, but do you have a link for the adapter you used? I want to do the GT throttle body upgrade on mine and this is the only thing really holding me up? I'd like a pipe that has the fittings for the two tubes that go into the stock intake.

Thanks!

The thread for the GT TB is stickied. It includes the adaptor plate info.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72817

s550v6 · May 21, 2017

RedRyan98 said:
I don't mean to go off topic, but do you have a link for the adapter you used? I want to do the GT throttle body upgrade on mine and this is the only thing really holding me up? I'd like a pipe that has the fittings for the two tubes that go into the stock intake.

Thanks!

I custom made my pipe with the fittings using an ebay tube and UPR pcv hose fittings, not too hard to do!

whatdoyoufeedit? · May 21, 2017

soldier989 said:
Even with the velossatech big mouth, my IAT temps reach in the 140s if I run the car then stop it for like 10+ mins (say for shopping) and then get back into it. While stopped, the plastic manifold soaks in the heat from the engine since there's no air moving to cool it down. Once the car is moving again, going WOT and sucking up ambient air will get the IAT number back down.

True that^. Do you think an aluminum plenum would fare better when it comes to long-term heatsoak? Or is it splitting hairs?

soldier989 · May 22, 2017

whatdoyoufeedit? said:
True that^. Do you think an aluminum plenum would fare better when it comes to long-term heatsoak? Or is it splitting hairs?

There are some pro's and cons to an aluminum manifold. Through convection, metal will gain and lose heat much faster then plastic. Plastic is an insulator.

With plastic, when you start your car in the morning and go to work, you'll notice your IATs usually reach only about 10-20 degrees over ambient. That's because the plastic is slower to warm up, especially with air flowing over the engine and constantly acting like a heatsink. Now, when you stop your car for any small period of time, the plastic is absorbing the 210 degree engine heat without any airflow, and shows up with inlet temps of 140 upon restart. I then takes a decent drive and/or WOT to get those numbers back down. So on the flip side, plastic takes longer to heat up but its also slower to cool down.

If you had a metal manifold, you'd likely see your IATs rise quickly from something as short as sitting at a red light, but then dropping quickly when driving. Probably splitting hairs here. I'd prefer a metal manifold, but plastic also has benefits in the weight department.

whatdoyoufeedit? · May 22, 2017

soldier989 said:
There are some pro's and cons to an aluminum manifold. Through convection, metal will gain and lose heat much faster then plastic. Plastic is an insulator.

With plastic, when you start your car in the morning and go to work, you'll notice your IATs usually reach only about 10-20 degrees over ambient. That's because the plastic is slower to warm up, especially with air flowing over the engine and constantly acting like a heatsink. Now, when you stop your car for any small period of time, the plastic is absorbing the 210 degree engine heat without any airflow, and shows up with inlet temps of 140 upon restart. I then takes a decent drive and/or WOT to get those numbers back down. So on the flip side, plastic takes longer to heat up but its also slower to cool down.

If you had a metal manifold, you'd likely see your IATs rise quickly from something as short as sitting at a red light, but then dropping quickly when driving. Probably splitting hairs here. I'd prefer a metal manifold, but plastic also has benefits in the weight department.

Great explanation, the reason I was asking because I was thinking of the Taurus SHO manifold way down the road. It's a short runner unit which would help in the RPM department. I haven't dived into it yet because it's fairly involved (a spacer needs to be made IIRC to make it work as it was used for a DI vehicle) and I have no time at the moment.

fordguys550 · May 22, 2017

Theres a guy on fb that ran a taurus intake....didnt make any hp over a stock manifold..and made less tq. Now...if you were boosted, it would be a different story

IAT showing excessive heat

s550v6

Mike

DANA44

Well-Known Member

Fuse

Well-Known Member

s550v6

Mike

whatdoyoufeedit?

Well-Known Member

s550v6

Mike

whatdoyoufeedit?

Well-Known Member

soldier989

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RedRyan98

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soldier989

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s550v6

Mike

whatdoyoufeedit?

Well-Known Member

soldier989

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whatdoyoufeedit?

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fordguys550

yep..."just" a V6