DD DRL Boards

Diode Dynamics · Oct 21, 2016

apsilon said:
I'd suggest not doing them on an exchange basis as there'll always be someone who isn't happy because they sent you pristine lights and received back ones where someone followed a gravel truck daily and are pitted and scratched etc etc.

We have a ton of dealers who do install work. I would NOT recommend doing exchanges or core charges. These businesses always fail because like apsilon said, customers get mad when a set right off the lot turns into a 10000-mile scratched and dirty light.

You can either have customers ship theirs in (make them clear on the wait time, give yourself room), or sell brand new housings direct to customer- much more expensive, but there are a lot of people who do it that way.

Just my 2 cents!

dtdazza · Oct 21, 2016

Diode Dynamics said:
We have a ton of dealers who do install work.

Any in Sydney?

CasperGT · Oct 21, 2016

Diode Dynamics said:
We have a ton of dealers who do install work. I would NOT recommend doing exchanges or core charges. These businesses always fail because like apsilon said, customers get mad when a set right off the lot turns into a 10000-mile scratched and dirty light.

You can either have customers ship theirs in (make them clear on the wait time, give yourself room), or sell brand new housings direct to customer- much more expensive, but there are a lot of people who do it that way.

Just my 2 cents!

100% agree! There is no way I would do what was suggested, too many problem areas. I had considered buying new units to split and on-sell but its risky as the inventory cost is disproportionate to unit cycle times and recovery rates and by the time its all said and done, they would cost in at $3,000 a set... So guess who would have a set of expensive white elephants waiting for someone to buy.

If anyone truly wanted to they can do themselves like I did. That way they take their own risk into account before doing.

CasperGT · Oct 21, 2016

Diode Dynamics said:
We have a ton of dealers who do install work. I would NOT recommend doing exchanges or core charges. These businesses always fail because like apsilon said, customers get mad when a set right off the lot turns into a 10000-mile scratched and dirty light.

You can either have customers ship theirs in (make them clear on the wait time, give yourself room), or sell brand new housings direct to customer- much more expensive, but there are a lot of people who do it that way.

Just my 2 cents!

BTW, I was wondering if you read John's post on the light flickering issue that he developed a circuit mod with diode and capacitor inclusion. Is that something you guys can look at and build in?

I am still waiting on my set from you guys (not a complaint, happy to wait) and was hoping this might he due to developments with the EU version I ordered?

Diode Dynamics · Oct 21, 2016

CasperGT said:
BTW, I was wondering if you read John's post on the light flickering issue that he developed a circuit mod with diode and capacitor inclusion. Is that something you guys can look at and build in?

I am still waiting on my set from you guys (not a complaint, happy to wait) and was hoping this might he due to developments with the EU version I ordered?

We are checking out now and will implement everything we can to make the installation trouble-free. Great info from him, really helpful!

CasperGT · Oct 21, 2016

Diode Dynamics said:
We are checking out now and will implement everything we can to make the installation trouble-free. Great info from him, really helpful!

That is awesome! Hopefully you might be able to mod slightly to make your product perfect for our EU lights. I for one would be happy to wait longer and even pay a top up fee if the end result means a bit more cost to have it resolved at manufatcure rather than us having to solder up a make shift circuit.

Thanks heaps :thumbsup:

goff · Oct 21, 2016

CasperGT said:
I just studied my headlight assemblies with the hole method in mind. I have an advantage as I can look at everything without keyhole limited view. I can see exactly where to make the cut for optimum fitting. I have also worked out a way to make an installation tool for setting in the LED boards. But what I would like to know is if the EU LED mounting board has the pegs that align the LED boards? Could someone confirm please.

Hi Alan
Have you had a chance to do your write up on the heat gun method ? As for the cut method I was leaning towards that method for some time but the photos Banditvox posted where too blurred ,Didn't want to cut on the chance of getting it wrong and the swarf that went inside may be hard to remove (static) Could you possibly mark on the bottom exactly where you would cut

But the heat gun seems the better choice so far

CasperGT · Oct 21, 2016

goff said:
Hi Alan
Have you had a chance to do your write up on the heat gun method ? As for the cut method I was leaning towards that method for some time but the photos Banditvox posted where too blurred ,Didn't want to cut on the chance of getting it wrong and the swarf that went inside may be hard to remove (static) Could you possibly mark on the bottom exactly where you would cut But the heat gun seems the better choice so far

Hey Godfrey,

Re the cut a hole method... I would be also worried about the swarf as once it makes its way to the lens area its pretty much locked in there. I am also assuming its messy because quite a few people have done it but with the exception of John's awsome electric's info no one is posting photos to show and describe process details. I did send a couple of messages asking to learn more but no replies.

I will PM you some ideas shortly.

ryosaeba · Oct 21, 2016

CasperGT said:
Hey Godfrey,

Re the cut a hole method... I would be also worried about the swarf as once it makes its way to the lens area its pretty much locked in there. I am also assuming its messy because quite a few people have done it but with the exception of John's awsome electric's info no one is posting photos to show and describe process details. I did send a couple of messages asking to learn more but no replies.

I will PM you some ideas shortly.

Yeh I was thinking of doing the cut method and how I'd deal with the swarf too. I'm thinking if I cut it upside down with a dremel, I can get most of the swarf to fall outside of the light. And use a vacuum cleaner on the hole immediately following the cut. This should clear most of it out before inserting the lights. Then with 2 chopsticks with stickytapes on their end for positioning and maneuvering the DD boards into the unit. Then I'd use a bamboo skewer to apply the glue, then close the hole back once i'm happy with it.

CasperGT · Oct 21, 2016

ryosaeba said:
Yeh I was thinking of doing the cut method and how I'd deal with the swarf too. I'm thinking if I cut it upside down with a dremel, I can get most of the swarf to fall outside of the light. And use a vacuum cleaner on the hole immediately following the cut. This should clear most of it out before inserting the lights. Then with 2 chopsticks with stickytapes on their end for positioning and maneuvering the DD boards into the unit. Then I'd use a bamboo skewer to apply the glue, then close the hole back once i'm happy with it.

I think there might be a better way. I will PM you as an interim to working out a few things.

CasperGT · Oct 23, 2016

I have now completed the write up of how I split my headlight assemblies using my Heat-Gun method. Whilst in my opinion this is 10 times better and easier than the oven bake method I still do not recommend you do this unless you are prepared to take full responsibility for damaging your headlights as I take no responsibility what so ever!

The advantage of splitting is that you can also black out the chrome work inside the assembly. BUT if you do not intend on doing this than I think the cutting a hole method is probably still the best way according to others who have already done it this way?

The link:

http://allanjonesvip.wix.com/s550headlightsplit

Cheers

John577 · Oct 23, 2016

Thanks alot for the instructions, That's a really interesting reading. :thumbsup:

:cheers:

CasperGT · Oct 23, 2016

John577 said:
Thanks alot for the instructions, That's a really interesting reading. :cheers:

Cheers John, unfortunately the steps jumble up a bit but that is how this free website builder works. Limited options.

car · Oct 23, 2016

ryosaeba said:
Yeh I was thinking of doing the cut method and how I'd deal with the swarf too. I'm thinking if I cut it upside down with a dremel, I can get most of the swarf to fall outside of the light. And use a vacuum cleaner on the hole immediately following the cut. This should clear most of it out before inserting the lights. Then with 2 chopsticks with stickytapes on their end for positioning and maneuvering the DD boards into the unit. Then I'd use a bamboo skewer to apply the glue, then close the hole back once i'm happy with it.

If you want some help happy to do so - also to get info for me

ryosaeba · Oct 23, 2016

CasperGT said:
I have now completed the write up of how I split my headlight assemblies using my Heat-Gun method. Whilst in my opinion this is 10 times better and easier than the oven bake method I still do not recommend you do this unless you are prepared to take full responsibility for damaging your headlights as I take no responsibility what so ever!

The advantage of splitting is that you can also black out the chrome work inside the assembly. BUT if you do not intend on doing this than I think the cutting a hole method is probably still the best way according to others who have already done it this way?

The link:

http://allanjonesvip.wix.com/s550headlightsplit

Cheers

Thanks for the very detailed instructions Allan!

car said:
If you want some help happy to do so - also to get info for me

I'm still very two minded about it hahhaa. When I decide to do it, I'll let you know mate.

DD DRL Boards

Diode Dynamics

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dtdazza

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CasperGT

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CasperGT

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Diode Dynamics

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CasperGT

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goff

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CasperGT

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ryosaeba

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CasperGT

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CasperGT

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John577

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CasperGT

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car

Car

ryosaeba

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