JRZ vs Ridetech coilovers???

CrazedAntelope said:

[MENTION=14962]Alex15stangPP[/MENTION],

How have you mounted the external reservoirs for the rear? Are they within the rear wheelwell? Did you drill a canister-sized hole into your trunk? Or did you take the system apart and drill a small hole to pass the line through?

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If the line is long enough you might be able to pass it through the drain hole in the trunk

I have mine like this.. works well and they're easy to get to for adjustment....

BlownStang15 said:

The Ridetech's are a true coilover in the rear where the JRZ is not.

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CrazedAntelope said:

I hear that JRZ rear can be optioned as a true coilover, but I haven't confirmed that with JRZ.

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i just picked up the dual eyelet version of the rs pro (as opposed to the top pin-mount that was originally released) that let's you run it as a standard or inverted configuration (top and bottom mounts can be split apart and relocated, and shock body is threaded for perches), and run either as a coilover or non-coilover.

BUT.. here's the rub:

i tried the inverted coilover setup first - with 2.25ID springs they *barely* clear the passenger side axle, and require an endlink flip (if running aftermarket), due to spring interference - although this then puts the endlink perilously close to your wheel (if wide, and offset to maximize inboard space usage). unfortunately, they don't clear the driver side axle, so it didn't matter in the end, especially since i will be running beefier axles in the near future.

i then tried running in regular coilover configuration - if you have a very wide wheel/tire setup, the wheels you currently have will probably require a spacer. as an inverted non-coilover setup, i had about 8-10mm of inboard space to the e-brake bracket (first point of interference) with my 18x12/335 combo - as a regular coilover, i needed to run 10mm of spacer to get about 4mm of spring clearance at full droop, meaning i lost about 14-16mm inboard.

tl;dr
inverted coilover doesn't work, due to driver side axle interference with the spring
regular coilover works, but you'll lose about 14-16mm inboard at full droop

.. and fwiw, i have settled on running them as inverted non-coilover in the rear, since i'll be moving to 18x13 wheels soon and need to maximize my inboard room to keep the tires off the (stock but pulled) fenders. for the majority of owners, the regular coilover configuration should work fine.

apex15stangPP said:

I have mine like this.. works well and they're easy to get to for adjustment....

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does it come with the mounts?

I got my JRZ RS Pro's! Going to use my old BC racing rear springs (784 lb/in) along with 250 lb/in springs in the front.

Finding a shop that can de-pressurize and re-pressurize the external canisters is a little harder than expected! I can't wait to get these guys installed.

Those springs are going to be really soft if you plan on pushing the car any.