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Paxton vs Whipple for hot climate?

Angry50

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Heat soak is inevitable with boosted cars. Despite it all, even turbo/centri cars experience heat soak. I truly believe you should be more considerate of your goals/power/torque curves than anything. Boosted cars are inherently always fighting heat. However, there are plenty of ways to fight it.

Enclosed air boxes that draw thru the grill and avoid under hood heat.
Lower T-Stat temp
Larger radiator
Roush vents w/ cut outs to ventilate the engine bay
Grill delete
Coolant bypass mod
The list goes on..

One thing I noticed from some of the cars on here that battle high IAT's is that they aren't PP cars. The cooling capabilities of the PP vs Non are pretty substantial. Especially when you observe the radiator by itself.
was my understanding at least some of the boosted setups come with an improved radiator .

But yes more boost = more heat requires more cooling..
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Roh92cp

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This is one of the reasons I went with a Procharger after being certain I wanted a whipple for a long time. In south Florida I still see 2-3*f above ambient up to 85*F so far.
Not sure but, it seems your saying a whipple would not be good in Florida or hot climates because of heat soak problems robbing power, and this is just not true. Whipple has one of the largest heat exchanger and intercoolers in the industry, it also has a high volume pump. They also offer dual fans, and with a closed air box mod like I've done its even better. I've never heard of anyone having significant heat issue with the Whipple's setup that they would be loosing power. I know guys who road course and drag and they aren't not having problems as well as street driving. Whipple also sees 3-5 above ambient when cruising at the inlet IAT1.
 

Roh92cp

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Thanks Roh92cp. I was going to order a Whipple today but got discouraged when I read about the heat issues (Florida). Unfortunately, Whipple doesn't have dual fans for my set up (Boss 302) so I'll have to fab something up.
I can help you source a good dual fan setup for your car. I made my own dual fans and wirring on mine.
 

SolarFlare

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Not sure but, it seems your saying a whipple would not be good in Florida or hot climates because of heat soak problems robbing power, and this is just not true. Whipple has one of the largest heat exchanger and intercoolers in the industry, it also has a high volume pump. They also offer dual fans, and with a closed air box mod like I've done its even better. I've never heard of anyone having significant heat issue with the Whipple's setup that they would be loosing power. I know guys who road course and drag and they aren't not having problems as well as street driving. Whipple also sees 3-5 above ambient when cruising at the inlet IAT1.
You said it yourself that IAT1 is not the same as my IATs. My maf is post blower. So when I'm seeing 2* above ambient, that's what is going into the engine. Your IAT one is before blower. So the whipple requires 2 accessory systems to get close to what the Procharger reads in temps. Since you have an IAT2. Do a pull and let us know what you see for post blower temps, I'm interested in knowing.
 
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EgoBoost

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I can help you source a good dual fan setup for your car. I made my own dual fans and wirring on mine.
Thank you sir! I ordered the Whipple/TB/ID1050's/Fuel System. Can't wait! :headbang:
 

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Roh92cp

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You said it yourself that IAT1 is not the same as my IATs. My maf is post blower. So when I'm seeing 2* above ambient, that's what is going into the engine. Your IAT one is before blower. So the whipple requires 2 accessory systems to get close to what the Procharger reads in temps. Since you have an IAT2. Do a pulls and let us know what you see for post blower temps, I'm interested in knowing.
Ok so 2-3 degrees above ambient when you are in cruise state I can see, because your bypass will be open and you'll be sipping air. Under load and WOT there is no way 3-4 above ambient is possible unless your spraying heavy meth.

One thing to know about the stock MAF IAT sensor is it's not made to react fast and has a big delay. This has been tested by Dept of Boost and Whipple and I can verify this as well. My bet is when your cruising the IAT stabilizes and when you hit it WOT it will not change much at all becuase it's slow. Dept of Boost says the MAF IAT sensor when tested against a know fast reacting sensor takes up to 8 seconds to catch up and read accurate.
 

Roh92cp

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Thank you sir! I ordered the Whipple/TB/ID1050's/Fuel System. Can't wait! :headbang:
LMK when you want to source the fans, just send me a PM.
 

SolarFlare

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Ok so 2-3 degrees above ambient when you are in cruise state I can see, because your bypass will be open and you'll be sipping air. Under load and WOT there is no way 3-4 above ambient is possible unless your spraying heavy meth.

One thing to know about the stock MAF IAT sensor is it's not made to react fast and has a big delay. This has been tested by Dept of Boost and Whipple and I can verify this as well. My bet is when your cruising the IAT stabilizes and when you hit it WOT it will not change much at all becuase it's slow. Dept of Boost says the MAF IAT sensor when tested against a know fast reacting sensor takes up to 8 seconds to catch up and read accurate.
I briefly looked at one of my logs just before leaving the house. I took off and temp right away started creeping up, peaking at ~12-13*f above ambient. At 7K rpm, upon letting off it slowly started coming back down.
 

Roh92cp

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I briefly looked at one of my logs just before leaving the house. I took off and temp right away started creeping up, peaking at ~12-13*f above ambient. At 7K rpm, upon letting off it slowly started coming back down.
When you say log what system are you using to log? Is this the stock MAF IAT sensor you are referring to? The stock sensor will react, however it will not give you accurate data until it stabilizes.
 

HWill

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I had a Procharger on my 2010 GT out here is Arizona and summer sucked. I had originally wanted a Whipple but bought the Procharger cause I was told they had the coolest temps for a SC. My buddy's Whipple had some heatsoak but not as noticable as my procharger. If I go SC again I will go with Whipple. Like said all will heatsoak though but IMO the Procharger was the worst.

Herb
 

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mustang1

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I had a Procharger on my 2010 GT out here is Arizona and summer sucked. I had originally wanted a Whipple but bought the Procharger cause I was told they had the coolest temps for a SC. My buddy's Whipple had some heatsoak but not as noticable as my procharger. If I go SC again I will go with Whipple. Like said all will heatsoak though but IMO the Procharger was the worst.

Herb
Is there infrared thermometer data for the different S/C? I have read that the air-to-air intercoolers aren't all that efficient at lower speeds. What you might deal with in a daily driver.
 

SolarFlare

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When you say log what system are you using to log? Is this the stock MAF IAT sensor you are referring to? The stock sensor will react, however it will not give you accurate data until it stabilizes.
Ngauge. Looking at ACT. Mines seems responsive. There's no delay.
 

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I had a Procharger on my 2010 GT out here is Arizona and summer sucked. I had originally wanted a Whipple but bought the Procharger cause I was told they had the coolest temps for a SC. My buddy's Whipple had some heatsoak but not as noticable as my procharger. If I go SC again I will go with Whipple. Like said all will heatsoak though but IMO the Procharger was the worst.

Herb
The 2010 kit was also sucking in air from right over the headers in the back of the engine bay. It had the worst filter placement of any FI kit for the S197. That model year has zero basis for comparing S550 kits. Even the 11-14s have completely different plumbing. Do a side by side comparison. If they heatsoaked so bad, why do so many S550 owners run procharger?

I have no experience with either, but using a 2010 design as an example is invalid. Sorry
 

Roh92cp

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Ngauge. Looking at ACT. Mines seems responsive. There's no delay.
I have an Ngauge as well, and I have compared the ACT to my 2 other dedicated IAT2 sensors and it was not completely accurate. The sensors I installed was a K type thermo couple and the other a resistor type. The ACT PID picked up by the Ngauge remains somewhat accurate under 85 degrees and tracked with the other sensors up to that point, but over that it would start to lag behind and would show in the end about 10 degrees lower than my dedicated sensors that were dead accurate.
 

SolarFlare

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I have an Ngauge as well, and I have compared the ACT to my 2 other dedicated IAT2 sensors and it was not completely accurate. The sensors I installed was a K type thermo couple and the other a resistor type. The ACT PID picked up by the Ngauge remains somewhat accurate under 85 degrees and tracked with the other sensors up to that point, but over that it would start to lag behind and would show in the end about 10 degrees lower than my dedicated sensors that were dead accurate.
Well you said it yourself, your ACT is before the blower so it's likely seeing a chill effect from the vaccuum the blower is pulling. Mine is in the charge flow. So what are your IAT2s?
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