Aussie Exhausts

msweet said:

Pacemaker or hurricane headers are the Aussie options, custom mid pipe to mate up to your axlebacks (I'm assuming that is what you have now with the gt350 bumper). Then you can choose whatever crossover you want, x, h, double x, true dual with no crossover pipe etc

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Axle back is what I have now with a FRPP X-Pipe, sounds good but it is a mess underneath, slip joints, dodgy looking clamp joins and every piece is a different material/grade of steel/aluminium. It's messy and definitely restricted, want to start from scratch with welded/flanged joints and same material thoughout. Hurricane is my preference and I've got a new lead for a shop that deals with Hurricane and does good work for the right price so fingers crossed they come through.

Streetfighter Headers

I know I'm not an Aussie, but I thought this might be of interest to some of you antipodean folk..

I've just completed a SF header install on my car. Haven't got any Dyno info yet but before the install I had 306KW which based on other readings from other owners on the same Dyno, seems around about on the money for a stock car.

The install itself was difficult for a few reasons, instructions are poor, I tried to do it from axle stands, I'm not the most flexible of folk (arthritis)...
But never the less with some help from a few friends and perseverance, and the help of Callam from SF we got the job done.:hail:

I opted for 200 cell cats which meant I had to get pipes made to join the headers up to my Borla touring catback..

So how are they working out??

Pretty good actually
David from SF said that he'd include a tune in with the headers, but unfortunately it wasn't compatible with my SCT tuner, so I couldn't use it.

I have to be honest and admit I was pretty disappointed with his lack of response once the tune didn't work out but there wasn't much I could do about that, so I thought sod it and went with Lund.

I'm looking forward to getting some data logging done, so that I can revisit the dyno and see what we've got, but my arse dyno says there is a definite jump in KW especially above 3500rpm..

As for the headers themselves, I'm impressed by the fit and finish and the clearance they give around the steering column etc

The ceramic coating definitely keeps the temps down, so much so that even after a 20 mile run, I could grab a header and a cat with my bare hands within a couple of minutes of turning the engine off...very impressive:eyebulge:

Sound wise I got what I was after, no rasp, not to loud and a nice rumble at tickover... which is probably as much to do with the Borla as it is to do with the headers...

I've only done a 150 miles or so, but up to now I have no unwanted noises or vibrations etc, and no engine or emission lights...
Most people that have heard it like it, but a few think it's on the quiet side....

So would I recommend the SF headers??

The answer is YES....

Despite the hassle of fitting, (most of which was down to me underestimating the job) and the extra cost of having to get custom pipes made up, these headers have worked out considerably cheaper than other options that I looked at in the UK..

All in all, I consider this to be a good upgrade for us UK guys looking for headers:hail:

[ame]

Enoch, thanks for the video and write up.

To confirm, the video is start up with headers and standard exhaust? The pics show a Borla exhaust added later?

The SF / Pacemaker headers (made here in Adelaide) were 1 7/8 or 1 3/4?

Interesting to hear how effective the coating is although I think you were brave touching them to find out!

Couldn't they find any bends or sommet?
Btw Enoch, I agree with your attempts to get rid of raspiness. Deeper is better. Cheers.

Enoch said:

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OzS550 said:

Enoch, thanks for the video and write up.

To confirm, the video is start up with headers and standard exhaust? The pics show a Borla exhaust added later?

The SF / Pacemaker headers (made here in Adelaide) were 1 7/8 or 1 3/4?

Interesting to hear how effective the coating is although I think you were brave touching them to find out!

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Hi Michael...although we did the fit up using the standard exhaust, We did start the car with the standard system, but didn't record it as it was only a bit different to the stock sound;)

So the video sound bite is with the Borla...

The headers are 1"7/8

As for being brave... not me.... I took it to my mates to get the tips lined up exactly how I wanted them....he was under the car just a few minutes after I got there, and explained how cool the exhaust was......I only touched them after him, and he was right....quite surprising really..

FIXR7 said:

Couldn't they find any bends or sommet?
Btw Enoch, I agree with your attempts to get rid of raspiness. Deeper is better. Cheers.

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We could have ordered bends, but because the headers and the rest of the system are at slightly different heights and also taper from 3" to 2.25", it was easier to make them to suit..

[MENTION=13920]Enoch[/MENTION] S-type or touring? Cheers!

Burkey said:

Um, the H pipe is raspier than the X? Since when?
MOST of the Americans are running X pipes. The MBRP is one of the few that uses an H...

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Me thinks David is a little confused, H pipe is not raspier than X (according to all I've heard and read).

Sturty91 said:

[MENTION=13920]Enoch[/MENTION] S-type or touring? Cheers!

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Hi Mark....it's the Ford Racing Touring by Borla, that originally comes with an Xpipe..... I didn't like the rasp so swapped out the Xpipe for the Borla resonator..

So I suppose it's now a Borla touring

Enoch said:

Hi Michael...although we did the fit up using the standard exhaust, We did start the car with the standard system, but didn't record it as it was only a bit different to the stock sound;)

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I'm very interested that the headers made little difference to sound when mated to the standard exhaust.

I'd be quite happy with that personally - so long as it wasn't too restrictive.

OzS550 said:

I'm very interested that the headers made little difference to sound when mated to the standard exhaust.

I'd be quite happy with that personally - so long as it wasn't too restrictive.

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Hard to say regarding how restrictive, as we literally started the car, let it run for a few minutes and then fitted the Borla..

Regarding sound levels, its a long time since I've heard a standard exhaust, but what i can say is that it was pretty tame

I don't like loud exhausts, and even I thought it was to quiet, although I suspect if you had standard and standard with headers side by side you'd be able to detect a difference, but its minimal...

Don't forget that my set up is running with 200 cell cats, which i suspect will reduce noise compared to 100 cell that SF supply as standard..

I'll grab some pics of the factory cats a little later, but I can say FOR SURE that there is a substantial difference between them and the 100 cell.

Burkey said:

I'll grab some pics of the factory cats a little later, but I can say FOR SURE that there is a substantial difference between them and the 100 cell.

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Would be great to see a visual side by side comparison of factory cats Vs high-flow 100 cell cats.

peterdee said:

Me thinks David is a little confused, H pipe is not raspier than X (according to all I've heard and read).

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Many U.S systems prefer the raspy sound from their V8 exhausts.
To achieve this they will generally utilize H Pipes without center resonators.
X pipes or Kiss pipes without center resonators will also give you the raspy acceleration note.

To clarify.
Streetfighter exhausts prefer to utilize X pipes coupled with center resonators to give a deeper, smoother bass sounding exhaust and eliminate cabin drone.

Stainless vs Mild Steel Headers Coated

Just sharing a little something that was posted recently on MB World that might help you make an informed judgement on Stainless Headers vs Coated Mild Steel Headers. There are numerous pieces of info regarding Stainless vs Mild Steel Headers but this was one I chose because they have pointed out the merits of a Quality Stainless Header.

The following was written by MBH Motorsports.


As I'm taking my daily browsing of Mbworld. I came across a statement about mild steel use in headers and the claim that its better than stainless steel for headers, Or something along those line. So I was inspired to try and set the record strait about mild steel vs stainless steel and its aspects of use.

First things first, Mild steel is a great metal to make things with. Its affordable its very strong and relatively easy to work with when there is no rust. Mild steel has a bunch of uses in the automotive industry. Roll bars and roll cages can be made from it. NHRA rules state 1.75 .083 wall, Mild steel can be used to construct a NHRA spec cage. With NHRA rules set to protect the driver, Its clear Mild steel is good stuff. In fact if you made a roll cage out of stainless steel, it would offer limited protection.

The truth is, Stainless steel is a softer metal. Its flexes, it bends it does everything you dont want in a devise that is meant to protect you. Carbon steel comes in a few grades. Mild Carbon Steel, Medium Carbon Steel, and Heavy Carbon Steel. When you see the term "Mild steel" that is referring to that amount of carbon inside the steel.

We all know that carbon anything is strong stuff. Thats why we use it in things that need to be structurally sound. MBH even uses it in our jigs for headers. We can't afford to have our jigs bend. In this case mild steel is a perfect choice for us. As long as we keep the rust off it. Its very dry here in AZ and the jigs never see outside use, so rust isn't a huge issue.

Stainless Steel:
Stainless steel comes in a bunch of ratings from T-409, T-304, T-308, T-316 T-321. The list could go on for days about the many other types of stainless steel. In this case we keep to what you need to know in the automotive industry.

T-409 meets the minimum requirements to be called stainless steel. In fact we all have it on our Mercedes now. As our stock exhaust system is made from it. Its stainless steel in its cheapest form.
T-304 has proven to be ideal for header use and exhaust systems. It is non-magnetic, has good flexibility qualities and handles heat well.
T-308 is basically what you use to weld T-304. Its used as a filler rod.
T-316 is a stainless steel that has good use in water, Surgical stainless steel is T-316. My Kitchen knifes are made out of T-316.
T-321 is considered on of the best steels to use in high heat applications. think of it as T-304 stainless steel with some titanium in it.

As said before mild steel has its uses. Where it is an ideal choice for the job. That is the same with stainless steel. Where I wouldn't make a roll cage from stainless steel. I also would not make a header or exhaust system with mild steel.

Here are some reasons why I wouldn't make an exhaust system out of mild steel.
1) Its extremely ridged, due to the added carbon inside the steel.

2) It rusts. In fact non protected mild (carbon) steel can begin to oxidize with in a few moments of regular exposure to air. Imagine what it would do in a rain storm or through a puddle.

3) Not having the flexibility of stainless steel, it is much more prone to cracking. So, rather than expanding under heat, the rigidity of mild steel tends to crack.

4) coating, I have never seen a coating that 100% lasts. It flakes off, it scratches and exposes raw metal, and it makes repairing difficult because you have to remove the coating before you can weld the problem area. Also note the inside coating is one of the first areas to go. This is because, the thermal coating is trapping heat inside causing it to experience much higher temps that the outside coating. Coatings can also contribute to cracking. Due to the stiffness of mild steel coating a header causes the header to be much hotter inside. The headers reaction to the extreme temp difference from outside to inside can cause cracking. Much like putting an ice cube in a glass of hot watter. The ice cracks from the extreme temp difference. Stainless steel resists this because it will expand before it will crack.

5) Condensation: Have you ever seen a car start in the morning and seen water come out of the tail pipe? I'm sure you have. That water was building up over time and just sitting stagnant on what could possibly be an exposed (uncoated) section of mild steel. Causing rust.


In comparison, quality US made stainless steel will have none of these down falls. Granted any header can crack no matter what its made of, but the likely hood is far greater with mild steel when used in a heat oriented application. Also take note, that overseas stainless steel is not the same as Stainless steel made in the USA. Stainless steel from China is an inferior product when compared to stainless from the USA.

In conclusion mild steel is great for structural uses. where as stainless steel is not. Stainless steel is good for things that are exposed to the elements, things that need to be less stiff. This makes it one of the best choices for use in automotive exhaust systems.