Amp, Sub and Dynamat Install (Long post/heavy-pic warning)

I don't mean a split ring, I mean the kind that look like a star that will dig into the ring terminal. I actually put them on both sides of the ring terminal and torque the bolt down until they're both pretty much flat. The Hulk can't move the terminal if you do that and the connection remains perfectly sound.

Typically you will not hear ground noise with a sub since the frequency at which that noise is transmitted is not within the capable range of a subwoofer. You will, if the ground is subpar, experience mushy bass (like when listening to Bassnector type stuff or low-bass rap music especially and the bass comes but doesn't have any sort of hit or sounds "late"), potentially the amp cutting out, sometimes odd pops/booms, etc. If nothing like that is happening, well... lucky dog.

Great job ! Nice clean install, and frankly better than some "pro" shops.
Congrats !

mikes2017gt said:

*Quote*

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So being the noob that i am... How does the LOC work? whats it doing. what are the inputs and outputs? I see the RCA cables run from that to the amp, but that seems like an empty closed loop with nothing on the other end on the loc. Idk i've only done systems on older vehicles where you buy a new headunit with pre-outs built in going right to the amp.

love the install. definitely bookmarking this page and copying when i do mine.

LOC stands for Line Out Converter. These cars don't have any RCA outputs on the back of the head unit.

It takes signal from a speaker wire (+ and -) and converts it to an RCA output which goes to the amp input

The LOC can be spliced in and soldered or connected with wire taps

Line level signals are pre-amplification (very low voltage). A head unit with preamp outputs sends line level signals via RCA to an amplifier. Speaker level signals are post amplification, whether from a small amp in the head unit or an external amp. Because these signals are much higher in voltage, speaker cables are required to minimize voltage loss.

You don't want to input a speaker level (amplified) signal into another amp (unless the amp is designed to accept them). The primary purpose of a LOC is to convert a speaker level signal (high voltage) to a line level signal (low voltage) so that another amp can be employed (e.g., powering a sub). Since most amps use RCAs, LOCs will output via RCA as well. Just trying to be clear that a LOC is not about interfacing dissimilar jacks/connections; it's about converting a speaker level signal to line level.

@Joemomma22 : Regarding the Line Output Converter (LOC), Fenix and 2016Gruv hit it on the head. They explained it perfectly.

I would have rather had true RCA outputs directly from the head unit than having to use a LOC, but at least for subwoofer duty, the LOC works well enough that I don't miss the RCAs. For main speakers (doors/dash) sometimes LOCs can introduce noticeable noise into the system or degrade the sound. Some people notice it, others don't. But for the limited bandwidth the sub occupies, I don't hear any degradation in sound quality.

On (much) older cars that I've owned, before the days of CAN bus and the risks of tinkering with it, the first thing I did after buying the car was install an aftermarket head unit with real RCA outputs. But I really think the OEM Shaker system is darn good, and trying to upgrade it just to get RCA outs didn't seem worth the expense, time or trouble to me.

Fenix said:

LOC stands for Line Out Converter. These cars don't have any RCA outputs on the back of the head unit.

It takes signal from a speaker wire (+ and -) and converts it to an RCA output which goes to the amp input

The LOC can be spliced in and soldered or connected with wire taps

Click to expand...

Ah. Thank you.

2016Gruv said:

Line level signals are pre-amplification (very low voltage). A head unit with preamp outputs sends line level signals via RCA to an amplifier. Speaker level signals are post amplification, whether from a small amp in the head unit or an external amp. Because these signals are much higher in voltage, speaker cables are required to minimize voltage loss.

You don't want to input a speaker level (amplified) signal into another amp (unless the amp is designed to accept them). The primary purpose of a LOC is to convert a speaker level signal (high voltage) to a line level signal (low voltage) so that another amp can be employed (e.g., powering a sub). Since most amps use RCAs, LOCs will output via RCA as well. Just trying to be clear that a LOC is not about interfacing dissimilar jacks/connections; it's about converting a speaker level signal to line level.

Click to expand...

Great description. I totally understand now.

mikes2017gt said:

@Joemomma22 : Regarding the Line Output Converter (LOC), Fenix and 2016Gruv hit it on the head. They explained it perfectly.

I would have rather had true RCA outputs directly from the head unit than having to use a LOC, but at least for subwoofer duty, the LOC works well enough that I don't miss the RCAs. For main speakers (doors/dash) sometimes LOCs can introduce noticeable noise into the system or degrade the sound. Some people notice it, others don't. But for the limited bandwidth the sub occupies, I don't hear any degradation in sound quality.

On (much) older cars that I've owned, before the days of CAN bus and the risks of tinkering with it, the first thing I did after buying the car was install an aftermarket head unit with real RCA outputs. But I really think the OEM Shaker system is darn good, and trying to upgrade it just to get RCA outs didn't seem worth the expense, time or trouble to me.

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Yes i agree im fine with my premium shaker sound system EXCEPT that there is NO base. i cant believe the subwoofer isnt standard in the 9 speaker system.

Joemomma22 said:

Yes i agree im fine with my premium shaker sound system EXCEPT that there is NO base. i cant believe the subwoofer isnt standard in the 9 speaker system.

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I agree the bass is lacking, but I think this is also true with the 12-speaker system. Yugely disappointed with the anemic and muddy bass from the OEM sub. Since the MSRP price on the 401A package is about $1800.00 and I didn't desire BLIS or the memory settings, it was an easy decision for me.

Some day I'll pony up for the JL Audio stealth box or whatever is hot at the time. Buy once, cry once. ;)

2016Gruv said:

I agree the bass is lacking, but I think this is also true with the 12-speaker system. Yugely disappointed with the anemic and muddy bass from the OEM sub. Since the MSRP price on the 401A package is about $1800.00 and I didn't desire BLIS or the memory settings, it was an easy decision for me.

Some day I'll pony up for the JL Audio stealth box or whatever is hot at the time. Buy once, cry once. ;)

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https://store.audiodesignscg.com/product/2015-2017-mustang-subwoofer-box/

I just installed this box, works and fits great! Used the factory sub bolt holes (had to drill them) and it doesn't move an inch! (factory threaded holes exist on all cars).

Looks great, @Legionofone ! Very clean install! I guess with the Tesla HU you have real RCA outs? No LOC is always a plus. Did you specify what size driver cutout you wanted in the box, or did the RF driver just happen to fit?

mikes2017gt said:

Looks great, @Legionofone ! Very clean install! I guess with the Tesla HU you have real RCA outs? No LOC is always a plus. Did you specify what size driver cutout you wanted in the box, or did the RF driver just happen to fit?

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That amp actually has a built in LOC, the tesla unit sadly doesn't have line outs (that we have found yet).

Its a P3 shallow, the box was designed for a MTX terminator 12 but that amp burned the voice coil in about 10 mins.

mikes2017gt said:

@Joemomma22 : Regarding the Line Output Converter (LOC), Fenix and 2016Gruv hit it on the head. They explained it perfectly.

I would have rather had true RCA outputs directly from the head unit than having to use a LOC, but at least for subwoofer duty, the LOC works well enough that I don't miss the RCAs. For main speakers (doors/dash) sometimes LOCs can introduce noticeable noise into the system or degrade the sound. Some people notice it, others don't. But for the limited bandwidth the sub occupies, I don't hear any degradation in sound quality.

On (much) older cars that I've owned, before the days of CAN bus and the risks of tinkering with it, the first thing I did after buying the car was install an aftermarket head unit with real RCA outputs. But I really think the OEM Shaker system is darn good, and trying to upgrade it just to get RCA outs didn't seem worth the expense, time or trouble to me.

Click to expand...

1 more thing with the loc. hooked up the way that you have it, if you go into the settings on your sync radio and put all the power to the front, you kill power to the sub, right?

Show us how to do the mids now. ;)

Joemomma22 said:

1 more thing with the loc. hooked up the way that you have it, if you go into the settings on your sync radio and put all the power to the front, you kill power to the sub, right?

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Correct. Was not initially happy about that, but it all turned out OK. I enjoy the soundstage where it's supposed to be; in front of you. BUT, the JL XD amp and the LOC seem to be playing well together.

I have the soundstage very much faded to the front and I still have plenty of gain to play with. The listening position setting (or whatever it's called) is set to All Seats (vs. Driver) and it's faded about 80% to the front. I have the level controls on the LOC at whatever setting stock is; didn't touch them. The amp is set to the "low sensitivity" setting and the gain is about 40% or so. Plenty of gain left to play with and I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out.

My only regret is not hooking up the remote gain control, but in hindsight, it's probably better it's not there b/c I'd be playing with it constantly while I drive. :headbonk:

EvilRoosterJr said:

Show us how to do the mids now. ;)

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LOL! That MIGHT be coming down the road. We'll see how bad the audio bug bites me again. After running all-new wiring to the doors in the last two vehicles I owned, I am not real keen on doing that again.

As the Premium Sound has 3-way separates in the door, you're looking at either 3 sets of wires to each door, or somehow shoehorning the passive crossovers from a 3-way set into the door...where it could get wet. :eyebulge:

I've only done basic research on this next topic but this is what I understand on it. With the stock head unit, all the processing for the 3-ways in the doors comes from the HU. You have to flash the HU somehow to get it to output a full range signal on it's outputs. Then you can tap into them either behind the HU in the wiring harness or at the amp by the driver's left foot, at it's wiring harness. Lots of wires, lots of soldering, interior will have to come out...addle:

For now, I'm not going there. But ya'never know.