My Complete Suspension Comparisons to date, Springs, shocks, Coilovers ETC. READ

MustangCollector · Dec 1, 2015

angermgmt14 said:
Sir, I recently purchased the BMR front "performance" springs and the rear "drag" springs. Was actually thinking of running the FRPP shock/struts kit, your thoughts?

not sure i never mixed and match springs but it should work fine since they are linear and see if the rates are close matched

MustangCollector · Dec 1, 2015

jefc73 said:
How about a side shot of the car? Wanna see how the wheels fit with this set up.

hey PM me your email or mobile # il send you some shots tomorrow, car in garage now and its pouring out.

Chameleon · Dec 1, 2015

Great info sir.

Lsstefan · Dec 1, 2015

So just to understand you use Steed Linear springs and Ford Perf struts and shocks?
If so, I checked the pricing and added up yields around BC coilovers.
Considering I don't have money to test, especially since I live in Europe, should I go directly to a coilover setup?
I know coils are more track wise, but usually a coil should be better than spring+shock setup right?

Thanks.

Gibbo205 · Dec 2, 2015

Lsstefan said:
So just to understand you use Steed Linear springs and Ford Perf struts and shocks?
If so, I checked the pricing and added up yields around BC coilovers.
Considering I don't have money to test, especially since I live in Europe, should I go directly to a coilover setup?
I know coils are more track wise, but usually a coil should be better than spring+shock setup right?

Thanks.

If you had said KW V1 coilovers then Mustangcollector would probably say yes the coilover is the better idea, but BC coilovers, sorry they are cheap absolute rubbish.

Owning an E46 M3 I see it so often, the guys raving about their BC, HSD and other cheaper coilover kits, because the ride got much firmer and lower. Yet the reality is on the road such kits are over firm and crashy making for not such a good ride and on track they are average, you also tend to get a lot of clunk/clicking noises from cheap coilovers like BC/HSD. The problem is these guys are typically changing out stock dampers with like 100k miles and lowering springs to brand new cheap coilovers and so feel an improvement even though the ride and ability is still relatively poor.

Having owned an M3 CSL on stock suspension, an M3 on stock suspension with lowering springs and changed my M3 for a full KW Clubsport kit, the best KW offer and driven M3's on HSD's, BC's, Nitrons, Ohlins, Motons etc.

In short stock suspension when new works well on the road and is OK on the track. But stock suspension starts to under-perform once you pass 60k miles as the shocks/dampers ideally need a rebuild or replacing. Or changing to say KW, Nitrons, Ohlins, Motons you really can feel the improvements. For road coilovers with a little track work I always recommend Ohlins or KW V1/V3 they have oe ride quality but feel more sports and work better on track and give you the adjustability of coilovers. Motons, Nitrons tend to be a little too much for a road car, still ride well but at $6000+ these are more serious race coilovers.

Back to your car from what I have researched but I would say the FRPP dampers with Steeda Ultralite linears seem to be the best setup at present on the S550 if your intention is sporty road driving with comfort and the odd track event. If your more serious about track work then be looking at AFE or KW V3's, but see what Mustangcollector has to say as he has tried most of these setups.

But where I am sure he will agree, avoid that cheap Chinese tat such as BC or HSD coilovers, people who rave about them is because they went from poor setup or old stock suspension and have never actually tried a decent setup, so have nothing to compare against.

Lsstefan · Dec 2, 2015

Ok... Wow

)
You just destroyed my dream in a few minutes. I wasn't expecting BC to perform like Ohlins or others true, but was expecting to be better than you claimed.
I will look into KW then or just buy some springs now and after the turbo swap get coils.

Thanks for the response.

Gibbo205 · Dec 2, 2015

Lsstefan said:
Ok... Wow )
You just destroyed my dream in a few minutes. I wasn't expecting BC to perform like Ohlins or others true, but was expecting to be better than you claimed.
I will look into KW then or just buy some springs now and after the turbo swap get coils.

Thanks for the response.

Sorry buddy but having driven E46 M3 with pretty much every suspension possible BC, HSD simply avoid it.

If you really want the adjustability (ride height) of coilovers why not look at the STX (KW V1) as they are great value and are same as KW V1. KW V1, Roush and STX are all KW built and pretty much identical, but the actual KW as Mustangcollector has mentioned have stainless bodies so won't discolour or rust.

I am personally going FRPP full kit, it is all matched and can be had for $1000-$1200 plus shipping. Then if I want better I can just change out the FRPP progressive springs for the Steeda Ultralite linears for $300. I can't see their being a better solution than this for around $1000 for a car that is driven sporty on the road with odd track day.

If coilovers are a must, then STX/KW V1 are the best low-cost options, avoid BC, HSD etc.

MustangCollector · Dec 2, 2015

Lsstefan said:
So just to understand you use Steed Linear springs and Ford Perf struts and shocks?
If so, I checked the pricing and added up yields around BC coilovers.
Considering I don't have money to test, especially since I live in Europe, should I go directly to a coilover setup?
I know coils are more track wise, but usually a coil should be better than spring+shock setup right?

Thanks.

Why put made in china quality on your american muscle car, all of those cheap coilovers are not well engineered by anyone they are universal thrown together kits. Your better leaving your car stock if your heart is set on these. No thank you. FYI the Ford Shocks and Steeda springs are proudly made in the USA. Cant go wrong here. if you want to spend the money of around $1000 buy the ST coilovers by KW you will be more than happy with them

SteveW · Dec 2, 2015

MustangCollector said:
Issue #2 with the Roush kit and all KW kits is the rear height adjustment process. it uses a billet threaded collar and you would assume you can simply pull the rear wheel to adjust but that is not the case. when you try this even with the lower control arm loaded the collar spins on the spring. the Recommended procedure is the remove the spring perch off the car, i dont know about you guys but this is a royal PITA. this is fine if you preset both sides with a dial caliper but if you wanted to do a final tweak when getting an alignment or corner balance these kits will torture you. Something to really consider as these kits are very costly and labor isnt always free and cheap.

...

So back to the V3, i installed them as usual and left the compression preset out of the box and only messed with rebound at first because of the rear compression adj procedure.. it took a ton of trial and error to dial these in around here. i mean 30+ times of tweaking. I think the car felt great overall but i think the progressive spring rates really are not for my tastes. if you crank the shocks up to compensate for this the car skips over wavy and rough payment and rides like a garbage truck. its very difficult to get the firm sporty feel on the high speed use and then have the compliant feel around town and local rutted NYC roads.

Now as i mentioned with the Roush and KW V1 and V3 adjusting the rear height is a total PITA. but it gets ever more aggravating to adjust rear shocks on the V3 and Roush version of the double adjustables. Adjusting the front struts is easy you can crawl under the car and pop the hood. Out back is a different story. there is a slot on the very bottom of the shock body which rest deep in the lower control arm. you must remove the wheel and stick this tiny tool which looks like a bent paper clip in there and turn it. total nightmare because you cant feel the click and you need to use a mirror and flashlight and keep track of every turn you make. Just for this reason i hated this kit and refuse to ever reinstall it. It will be posted for sale soon if one of my friends doesnt buy it off me. It just isnt for my tastes. I took the wheels off so many times that i hurt my wrist on both hands over and over and over. screw this. Also KW sent the kit without the larger spanner wrench and no allen key for the spring perches which luckily i have spanners and tools to have made the install possible. the allen keys are 2mm and 2.5mm, you cant get these locally unless you go to a good Hobby Shop. thank goodness for my RC days as i have all my micro tools.

I really hope I don't hate the Roush V3 kit like you did the KW version since I ordered over BF weekend and got it for $500 off. I'm embarking on a STP autocross class setup and can't afford the next level sets that start at double what I paid by the time you add springs, camber plates and tools to the packages.

The reasons I went with Roush V3 are: the price I saw last weekend from one of the vendors, and two, I saw on a lot of other forums where folks really like the KW V3s on their STx cars so with me going to the new STP class next season I figured the same suspension for the S550 would hopefully be a good starting point. So long as Roush/KW did a decent job on the Mustang version of this product for my intended use of it.

Question about the rear shock adjustment: is that slot on the bottom of the shock for compression only and rebound on top or are both down there hidden behind the tire and in the control arm?

MustangCollector · Dec 2, 2015

Steve have fun with these man, the compression is the bitch to adjust on the rear and the rebound is up top, regardless you need to jack and pull the wheels for all of these adjustments and if you plan to corner balance the car another PITA is the height collar for the perch. if you plan on setting this up for the track be prepared to spend a lot of time setting up, time is money in my book and it will negate the $500 you saved buying them really quick. AFE has the best design so far and i really want to try them out to share with everyone here.

Lsstefan · Dec 2, 2015

Thanks guys.

There is that FRPP handling pack. Is that good, considering I won't track my car pretty soon.
Though I see those aren't coils, you get new shocks and springs and predefined drop.. mmmm

My idea for coils is 1. seem nice to have, 2. I can adjust how I want them, 3. when I hit a bumpy road going fast, I don't want to jump up n down, so I guess good quality over separate shocks and srprings.

MustangCollector · Dec 2, 2015

Lsstefan said:
Thanks guys.

There is that FRPP handling pack with coils and stuff. Is that good, considering I won't track my car pretty soon.

just buy the shocks and get the steeda ultra light linear springs, the ford springs are progressive and i dont think it gives an ultra sport car feel on this chassis. Everyone needs to realize the physics here. a progressive spring has a number of soft coils built into the designed spring length that gradually stiffens when you load the chassis hard in cornering. now during daily driving your pretty much using the soft spring rate all day long which oscillates the suspension up and down so much that creates a bounce effect as the front and rear suspension try to work together. for you to get a progressive spring into the stiffer handling rate zone you need to drive like an idiot on the street or take it to the track to do high speed cornering loads. does this make sense? do you want a sports car or a coupe de ville?

Gibbo205 · Dec 2, 2015

Lsstefan said:
Thanks guys.

There is that FRPP handling pack. Is that good, considering I won't track my car pretty soon.
Though I see those aren't coils, you get new shocks and springs and predefined drop.. mmmm

My idea for coils is 1. seem nice to have, 2. I can adjust how I want them, 3. when I hit a bumpy road going fast, I don't want to jump up n down, so I guess good quality over separate shocks and srprings.

FRPP kit is only spoke about positively and at $1015 for a full kit with everything it represents best value. If at a later date you want more sporty feel change the springs out for some linear ones.

What Mustangcollector says is spot on, if you already have swaybars then just get the FRPP shocks and Steeda linear springs.

Lsstefan · Dec 2, 2015

Ok cool. FRPP it is then.
Are the sway bars and toe links worth it over stock?

SteveW · Dec 2, 2015

MustangCollector said:
Steve have fun with these man, the compression is the bitch to adjust on the rear and the rebound is up top, regardless you need to jack and pull the wheels for all of these adjustments and if you plan to corner balance the car another PITA is the height collar for the perch. if you plan on setting this up for the track be prepared to spend a lot of time setting up, time is money in my book and it will negate the $500 you saved buying them really quick. AFE has the best design so far and i really want to try them out to share with everyone here.

Ok, understood and thanks for the information. The problem with AFE and other true rear coilovers is they are not legal to use in SCCA STP autocross class under the current rules. So, all rear setups compliant with the rules for this class will have similar struggles with adjustments.

Corner weighting should be a more or less one time thing and hopefully once I get the rear compression set I shouldn't have to fool with that very often. Rebound, yes, but that's on top.

My Complete Suspension Comparisons to date, Springs, shocks, Coilovers ETC. READ

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