Scary 5.0, suspension wants the rear tires up front.

Yes
No
Both

scott_0 said:

get better tires and learn to drive the car, any tire youre fitting on the stock 9.5" wheel wont be big enough, you need a 305 or so with that power

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Prob a dumb question but I'm new here to the forum, cars in general and mustangs specifically, so go easy on me but why do you need wider than 9.5" to run a 305?

Coming from truck world a 9.5" rim is plenty wide for a 305, even a 325

I guess I assumed cars w re the same...


Also can some elaborate on what exact suspension mods are being recommended? I've been eying bmr suspension for springs, the steeda link posted earlier for the mount I hadn't seen. What is its purpose?

I don't have the power that OP has but still feel their is room for improvement


Edit:disregard tire question. Looking at online specs and it's quite different from truck recommended widths. Interesting

FirstGT said:

Prob a dumb question but I'm new here to the forum, cars in general and mustangs specifically, so go easy on me but why do you need wider than 9.5" to run a 305?

Coming from truck world a 9.5" rim is plenty wide for a 305, even a 325

I guess I assumed cars w re the same...


Also can some elaborate on what exact suspension mods are being recommended? I've been eying bmr suspension for springs, the steeda link posted earlier for the mount I hadn't seen. What is its purpose?

I don't have the power that OP has but still feel their is room for improvement


Edit:disregard tire question. Looking at online specs and it's quite different from truck recommended widths. Interesting

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Read, Read and Read, everything you are wanting to now has been covered several times.

To get good feedback we really need to know your end goal and how you drive and what you drive. What I need may be complete overkill for you.

EricSMG said:

Okay, so OP reports a handling problem and that automatically makes him A) and bad driver and B) not aware of his car's limits?

A bit presumptuous (and arrogant), eh?

Then, in the same breath, you (and every other poster in this thread, including me) tell him to "fix the hardware".

So which is it - the driver or the car?



Going wide open on a public road with 435hp is dumb and yet every single one of us does this.

Get off your high horse.



Right, exactly - you learned through experience what you could and could not do in that car. And, by pointing out the (obvious) fact that the Fox is a death trap on wheels doesn't automatically make you a bad/inexperienced driver. You're simply stating a fact that has nothing to do with your driving skill - the Fox is a scaring handling car no matter you're skill.

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Long drawn out post but you know...your not really worth the effort.

Answer to your question. Drivers fault for not understanding that adding 300hp to a stock car would change its dynamics drastically. Is there a way to fix it..yes..Some simple research would show the dozens of threads about the loose ass on these cars and how to solve it.

Common sense says not to "Floor" any car at this power level...check out some youtube vids...there are hundreds of people just like the OP who end up killing people or themselves. At the very least causing some serious damage.

Hope the OP gets it figured out and makes the car safe. Best mod is the Nut and Peddle mod...Cars dont drive themselves.

Drive Safe

jhatley7 said:

Read, Read and Read, everything you are wanting to now has been covered several times.

To get good feedback we really need to know your end goal and how you drive and what you drive. What I need may be complete overkill for you.

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well i guess i was trying to convey what mods are being recommended for the OP. then i was going to take a look at what was recommended for him and do some researching off of that info.

i've been reading, reading way too much really, and getting myself all confused.

have a 15 GT pretty much stock, only has a flowmaster muffler and airraid CAI (installed by original owner).
I already "know" that i'm going to add the bmr front chassis brace, a front strut tower brace from steeda and bmr springs all around. From there I am not sure what to do next and really just want to make sure I'm doing mods in the right order so to speak while also making effective changes.

maybe down the road add coilovers or something if I feel the need but I'd rather kinda keep this car somewhat light on mods.

sorry for the hijack OP...

edit:also not wanting to waste money on parts which arent needed. for example the cradle bushing lockout and the rear shock mount kit. i'm gonna read up on those and whether I need to do that being that car is and as far as power goes will continue to maintain stock

BmacIL said:

Start here:
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1543

And grab these too:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-billet-rear-shock-mount-10mm-rear-shocks-555-8151.html

And then get an alignment. You want to make sure you have even left and right toe, at 0.15 deg per side, so 0.30 deg total. Front 0.0 deg and both sides 0, too.

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OK, after doing some reading and watching a few videos I can see how the BMR kit helps (a lot) but I am still at a loss as how the shock mounts will help. Anyone care to elaborate please?

fcarpio said:

AWE SwitchPath Exhaust already ordered

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Congrats, F!

fcarpio said:

OK, after doing some reading and watching a few videos I can see how the BMR kit helps (a lot) but I am still at a loss as how the shock mounts will help. Anyone care to elaborate please?

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They add a significant amount of compliance and composure to the rear of the car and removes the bounce from the rear end. This is because of the spherical bearings in them vs. the rubber bushings in the stock mounts that actually cause undamped springy, binding forces in the shock assembly to the body and control arm. The stock mounts do not allow for free articulation.

You have enormous rear tires which means alignment and alignment control (which the lockout will do) is extremely important to stability and proper handling.

BmacIL said:

They add a significant amount of compliance and composure to the rear of the car and removes the bounce from the rear end. This is because of the spherical bearings in them vs. the rubber bushings in the stock mounts that actually cause undamped springy, binding forces in the shock assembly to the body and control arm. The stock mounts do not allow for free articulation.

You have enormous rear tires which means alignment and alignment control (which the lockout will do) is extremely important to stability and proper handling.

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Thank you, I appreciate the detailed reply.

Josh/AWE said:

Congrats, F!

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Yay! Looking forward to it.

fcarpio said:

On a straight line it does just fine, the issue is doing the same while turning slightly (changing lanes).

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And that sums up the concept of "friction circle" (possibly more accurately, "friction ellipse") quite nicely.

You have 'X' amount of rear grip available. The total combined effect of your acceleration demand plus the cornering grip requirement cannot exceed 'X', else it'll let go on you. It's a pythagoras' theorem thing, not a straight addition, but as an example if you're using almost 100% of the available tire grip for forward acceleration there's almost nothing left for the lane-change cornering. Or the course-correction that you found yourself needing.


Norm

Brazenbuck said:

The point is you need to use VERY SOFT compound tires, they'll grip better. And yes they'll also wear out quicker but that's the price of admission.

Wider tires put more rubber on the road provided you have the right sized rim for the tire.

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This ↑↑↑. But maybe think of wider tires as kind of letting you "get away with" running those softer compounds with at least a little more durability, and that rims wide enough to provide adequate lateral support stiffening the tires up against cornering loads. Cornering distortion compromises acceleration grip as an effect separate from the combined cornering + acceleration demands mentioned above.

CB said:

The physics post number four. If the circumference of your tire stays the same then the length of the contact patch stays the same no matter how wide or thin the tire is.

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Not really true. Hardly anything about tires behaves in truly linear fashion.


Basically, any time you give yourself an "oh shit" moment like this episode was, you've just stepped out past what your skill level can support. At least slightly/momentarily. Living on the edge is for Aerosmith to sing about, not to keep driving at.


Norm

Update, I installed the shocks and struts this past weekend and the car feel much more planted. I think this fixed the issue I had when I had the lowering spring only. The car feels much better, my next move is going to be upper and lower arms along with the BMR lock out kit. The goal is better handling/traction. Does it sound like a good plan?

Did the Q60 have 650hp? I think that is part of your problem.

the CB005 and springs has been probably the best mod i've done to the car handling wise. I think you'll love it once they're on.