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***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

HeelToeHero

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Since the hose is so tight I wonder if engine torque may cause it to separate a bit.
Seems unlikely since the line runs from the resivoir to the firewall. Both shouldn't move with the engine. The line that goes from the clutch master to the slave could be susceptible to this force though.
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Genxer

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In this case a double o-ring might cause a gap on top of one and bottom of the other. :thumbsup:
Ford has used double and even triple o-rings on a/c lines.
 

Zepboy

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I just had my GT serviced yesterday and specifically asked them to look at the clutch as I've had 2 occasions where it stuck down and has subsequently felt "spongy" (sorry, not the right words, but best I can do). They could find no leaks anywhere, but the bled the clutch and returned it to me. It certainly feels much better than it did.
Question.......if there's a problem on that line, could air be entering the line WITHOUT there being any obvious leakage/seepage? I think there certainly could be.....
 

Kahboom

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Desert Rat

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Wow! I have a new 17 that I just bought a month ago and mine was sliding off, too. I pushed it back on about a half inch and felt it click back into place. Crazy.
 

TorqueMan

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GT350 here. My line was fine, but after seeing it and everyone's pictures here, left me little to be confident about. With that said, I've instilled a double zip-tie method. Your average size zip-tie to hold the line straight on the master cylinder nipple, and a smaller / skinnier zip-tie to act as a small clamping force on the rubber hose. Keep in mind the larger zip-tie is not super tight, only tight enough to make the rubber hose line up straight with the nipple. I know its not much, but now I'll be able to sleep tonight at least...

IMAG4846.jpg


What I think is happening is the hose is being pulled in a downward motion toward the other end due to the length being a tad bit too short, this pull is causing the rubber to stretch and no longer be a tight fit. Keeping the hose straight and level with the master cylinder nipple should prevent this premature rubber stretching (or so my thought process tells me).
I would keep a close eye on this. The zip tie you're using for strain relief will become like a pulley if the line sees tension on the end away from the brake resevoir. To do it right you should put another zip tie around the strain relief tie and tighten it enough that the line cannot pull through. See this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/xWO1Oes7oJw/sddefault.jpg
 

Genxer

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Now you're talking about pressurized lines that are piloted with machined tolerances...

not even remotely the same. This line stays at atmospheric pressure and is a gravity fed charge line to the clutch master cylinder.
My point was, that configuration does work and has been employed elsewhere. Yes, overkill here. A single o-ring done right would be sufficient in this application. Even a simple connection with a hose and a barb/bead with proper tolerances would work.

With a brake system where contamination is a concern, an airtight connection is pretty important. Seems like Ford used a cheap solution, just given the number of loose hoses shown in this thread. Maybe on the assembly line they didn’t get it pushed on all the way? I think the thing to watch here is if anyone has seated their hose and have seen it come loose again. If so, that makes this much more concerning.
 

TwinReverb

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Follow up.

After my discovery of the leak when under vacuum I decided I had enough of this hose. So I ordered the Tilton Brake and Clutch Fluid Hose 74-214 and decided to replace the entire hose all together. Also added two clamps. The clamps not absolutely necessary. The barbs on both the reservoir and clutch master cylinder gripped the hose very well.

I wanted to eliminate any chance of air getting in the system.

37444846261_6ec260815f_z.jpg
https://flic.kr/p/Z3SCeB

37444847601_9922dd4d9e_z.jpg
 

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ValidusTalon

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Having just read this thread I checked mine ('17 GT Premium PP) and sure enough the line was about 1/2" back. I couldn't see any signs of leakage and did push it forward where as others noted it felt as though it clicked (and was more snug). I put a small zip tie to try to add a bit of clamping force (like KiLLeR2001 pictured) and will monitor.

Seems like the kind of connection where on a new car (has 400 very babied miles on it) it would be very secure, like with a clamp or screwed on type of secure....
 

robwlf

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checked mine in work weds and mine was pulled back also.. not leaking but it was deff back further then i liked . i pushed it back and did the zip tie thing so far so good
 

5Oh_Trey

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Clutch recently gave out. I lost all pressure in my clutch pedal and can't go into any gears, could this be related to that at all? At school right now but I'll check when I get home.
 

Kahboom

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Checked mine this weekend, it was barely on there, pushed it nearly 3/4" back on , scary thing being close to loosing your clutch.
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