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Subwoofer Upgrade

Boggus

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So went ahead and ordered the JL HX300/1 amp, remote gain knob and RF PPS4-8 sub. Let's hope it sounds better than stock!
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Aznjason02

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I ordered one of these JL Hx300/1 amps aswell. I'm a little confused as I've only ever installed regular full size amps. Will I need to run a full size power wire from the battery, or could I just tap power from say the existing amp. The wires coming from the JL amp don't look to be that big.
 

scott_0

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I ordered one of these JL Hx300/1 amps aswell. I'm a little confused as I've only ever installed regular full size amps. Will I need to run a full size power wire from the battery, or could I just tap power from say the existing amp. The wires coming from the JL amp don't look to be that big.
that amp requires 8ga power and ground wires, so no, you cannot use the stock amp wires
 

mumbles

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that amp requires 8ga power and ground wires, so no, you cannot use the stock amp wires
I'd agree... use whatever JL recommends for power & ground.
 

vnzbd

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I third the need for the 8 gauge. But if you think you may ever add an additional amp for the front stage in the future consider running a 4ga now.
 

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Boggus

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Installed the JL amp and RF sub. Sounded like poop using high level from the stock shaker output (red, red/white - blue, blue/white) and the same using low level going to the stock shaker amp (violet/green - green/white). Gave up and reinstalled the stock shaker sub with the JL amp and using low level, it seems to be working. I believe the new RF PPS4 sub is bad out of the box, bad coil I believe.

After all this, still not thinking this is a good fix. Maybe it's a signal issue, plastic sub box issue or something else. Although it sounds a little better, It just seems to still be lacking. My $.02 worth.





 
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Bhoris

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I have a GTPP with the 401a package (Shaker Pro w/ sub in trunk) and I'd really like to upgrade the subwoofer. I'd prefer not to get into changing amps and all that so a drop-in that uses the stock amp and enclosure is perfect. I was going to go with the RF P3SD2-8 as recommended by the OP but while I was doing a bit more research, I found this post in the "Stereo Information" thread:

I changed the factory sub with a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" 2-Ohm 300W shallow mount but the factory amp was not enough for the aftermarket sub.

I scrapped that idea and bought a Fosgate PBR 300x2 amp, two P1S2-8's and a Ground Shaker box. Couldn't go any bigger because of the smaller trunk space in the vert.

After hearing how good it sounds now I'm going to have a custom box made that will fit back in the space under the package tray as to get more of my trunk space back.

v9fNYT.jpg
So, I'd just like to know for sure whether or not the stock sub amp is powerful enough to run a higher quality subwoofer. On one hand, the OP of this thread says it is but the guy in that other thread claims it wasn't. Not sure to pull the trigger, buy the sub, and try it myself or not!
 
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Chef jpd

Chef jpd

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I think it all depends on your ear. If you are a high end audiophile, it will not be good.
I did the replacement with the factory amp.
I think it sounds.much better. But that's just me and I do not have any hearing damage.
 

2016Gruv

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I have a GTPP with the 401a package (Shaker Pro w/ sub in trunk) and I'd really like to upgrade the subwoofer. I'd prefer not to get into changing amps and all that so a drop-in that uses the stock amp and enclosure is perfect. I was going to go with the RF P3SD2-8 as recommended by the OP but while I was doing a bit more research, I found this post in the "Stereo Information" thread:



So, I'd just like to know for sure whether or not the stock sub amp is powerful enough to run a higher quality subwoofer. On one hand, the OP of this thread says it is but the guy in that other thread claims it wasn't. Not sure to pull the trigger, buy the sub, and try it myself or not!
Yes, the stock amp is enough to power the sub. Whether it's enough to power an aftermarket driver to realize its full potential or to satisfy your expectation is another matter. You need to consider all of the variables to answer that. Or just cobble it together and hope you get lucky. ;)

Presuming all else remains the same, an aftermarket "higher quality subwoofer" may be no better. Is it designed specifically for the size and type of box it will go in? Does it bring an improved operating frequency range in the intended enclosure? While knowing the driver's power handling can be helpful, it's more important to know how efficient it is in the enclosure. If it's the same or less than the stock sub, then you won't realize a higher SPL using the stock amp. All of these matter greatly to how it will sound.
 

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I appreciate the responses! The subs I've been considering are the Rockford P3SD2-8 like the OP used and the Kicker RT 8" (http://www.kicker.com/comp-rt-8-2-ohm-subwoofer). If I remember correctly, I recall reading that the stock enclosure is just under one half cubic feet. Does that sound right? If so, the Kicker RT seems like it would be a good choice considering the stock enclosure is sealed and not vented.

With that in mind, which of those two subs would you guys recommend? It seems like the Rockford is a safer bet seeing as how others have used it with good results but that Kicker also seems like a good alternative.

I appreciate the input!
 
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shelbywannabe

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I posted this in the general forum, but it makes more sense here.

I have the 12 speaker shaker with the sub.
Decided the sub needed some help without getting crazy. Did a similar mod on my ST.
So,
Easy install, 3 torx screws at the bottom removes the faceplate, 3 more bolts and the sub is free.
Unplug harness, remove sub.
Remove the grill and unscrew the speaker.
There is one screw in the back holding the magnet. Remove that and the sub falls out.
It's a dual voice coil, so 4 wires.
Plug that hole on that back. I used that foamy 3m tape on both sides.
Purchase:
Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD2-8
And RF P3S 8" grill
Amazon has both for around $110.

Drop that baby in, button it up and enjoy.


I had a request about the center speaker, so I figured I'd throw in the pic.
Its a Polk DB351, mounted from below the panel for tweeter clearance

Also a tweeter request, Kicker KTS25, removed the pillar, dremeled the stock mount and installed from the front. be SURE to use the supplied crossovers.

Did you sell the other center speaker ? Also is the tweeter you bought a 1" tweeter ?
 
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Chef jpd

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The tweeter was 1 inch, and I still have the other 3.5. Pm me of interested.
 

toLerancia

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pmed to buy the polk 3.5, [MENTION=22912]Chef jpd[/MENTION] what's the maximum rms the factory amp can handle?

might not buy the same punch 8" 2ohm sub, any alternatives?
 
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Chef jpd

Chef jpd

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pmed to buy the polk 3.5, [MENTION=22912]Chef jpd[/MENTION] what's the maximum rms the factory amp can handle?

might not buy the same punch 8" 2ohm sub, any alternatives?
The RF handles 300 peak, but the factory amp doesn't put out anything near that.
There is nothing on the amp or factory speaker to indicate power levels.

I think there is a Kicker speaker similar.
The lower power rating on the replacement sub would be best since a high power speaker cannot get driven well by the factory amp.

PM was responded to....
 

Boggus

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Ended up installing a JL 10W3 in the spare tire hole with a custom made box. Used a MTX Thunder 5000 amp to drive it and a bass knob in the center console. It sounds really good. Everything is hidden, open the trunk and you just see all the stock stuff.
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