N2mb WOT Box

SolarFlare · Jul 16, 2016

The Game said:
Yep you will be able to set it low or high, broader range than the built in 2 step and it also has a Nitrous Window Switch in the software for if you decide to go to throttle in a bottle. You just have to buy a separate harness to wire in with a nitrous kit.

Wow! This is great!!! This might be able to get my launch RPMs up without the expense of a stall!!

SD_GT · Jul 17, 2016

Well, spent a couple hours working on the install tonight (new to soldering and wiring + not the best tools). Managed to get the green, yellow and blue wot-box wires soldered in and taped up. All that's left is the orange and red wires to the fuse box which I'm still a little confused about. We identified pin #1 on the connector on the violet wire as stated before by the game but I'm a little iffy. So we're supposed to the cut the same violet wire in half and wire orange to the side away from the fuse box and then solder in the red to the side closer to the fuse box?

Good thing I have another car to get me through for now. Hope to have this done by tomorrow night. Also, another dumb question - I tried plugging the WOTBOX into my laptop via USB to serial adapter and it wouldn't power up. Does it need to be plugged into the car at the same time?

Sorry for any spelling/grammatical errors. I'm a little tired right now. Haha

The Game · Jul 17, 2016

SD_GT said:
Well, spent a couple hours working on the install tonight (new to soldering and wiring + not the best tools). Managed to get the green, yellow and blue wot-box wires soldered in and taped up. All that's left is the orange and red wires to the fuse box which I'm still a little confused about. We identified pin #1 on the connector on the violet wire as stated before by the game but I'm a little iffy. So we're supposed to the cut the same violet wire in half and wire orange to the side away from the fuse box and then solder in the red to the side closer to the fuse box?

Good thing I have another car to get me through for now. Hope to have this done by tomorrow night. Also, another dumb question - I tried plugging the WOTBOX into my laptop via USB to serial adapter and it wouldn't power up. Does it need to be plugged into the car at the same time?

Sorry for any spelling/grammatical errors. I'm a little tired right now. Haha

Yep you cut the violet wire in half and splice/solder the orange wire and red wire in to the right end as in the crude sketch. The wot box will be supplying the power to the wires. Normally I always accessed my WOT interface with the car running because the box won't stay powered on since it's wired in as a switched setup. If you ever have trouble getting the car to crank be sure to check those wires. And the car won't crank if the box is unplugged from the harness so make sure it's easily accessible.

SD_GT · Jul 17, 2016

The Game said:
Yep you cut the violet wire in half and splice/solder the orange wire and red wire in to the right end as in the crude sketch. The wot box will be supplying the power to the wires. Normally I always accessed my WOT interface with the car running because the box won't stay powered on since it's wired in as a switched setup. If you ever have trouble getting the car to crank be sure to check those wires. And the car won't crank if the box is unplugged from the harness so make sure it's easily accessible.

:cheers::cheers:. Hope I can finish it tonight!

The Game · Jul 17, 2016

SD_GT said:
:cheers::cheers:. Hope I can finish it tonight!

I'm sure you will bud! Shouldn't be hard at all to finish up!

Chargedguard5.0 · Jul 17, 2016

Do you need to run straight through mufflers to use this? I've had one in my garage for a month but was told I need different mufflers.

Andrewg · Jul 18, 2016

Chargedguard5.0 said:
Do you need to run straight through mufflers to use this? I've had one in my garage for a month but was told I need different mufflers.

Yes. Straight through resonator style mufflers and no cats. Tonnes of forum threads on blown cats and mufflers on 05-09 mustangs.

http://www.musclecarmodfather.com/forum/showthread.php?162-DiMora-s-N2MB-WOTBOX-install-thread-(How-To)

Found several other threads in other mustang forums which I wasn't allowed to post.

SD_GT · Jul 18, 2016

Well, we finished the install last night and went over all the wiring just to be safe and unfortunately it doesn't work. I'm going to email Jon to see if he can guide me in the right direction.

SD_GT · Jul 18, 2016

Update: Wot-box is in and everything seems to be working correctly now. Tested the 2-step and holyyyyy hell it's loud and mean. Gonna take the car out a little later to get some E85 and give the no-lift shift a try as well. I'd say that the install was probably a 3 or 4 out 10 in terms of difficulty. If I had he right tools, it could've been done much quicker. I'm a total noob to soldering and I had 3 friends with me to help or take over whenever necessary. Took a few nights to finish but that's cause we were putting in a little time each night after work. All in all, I'm sure if I had to do it again I could do it much quicker now. Also, thanks to The Game for all your help bud!

Anybody on the fence, I say go for it. If nothing else, it sounds mean as hell.

The Game · Jul 18, 2016

SD_GT said:
Update: Wot-box is in and everything seems to be working correctly now. Tested the 2-step and holyyyyy hell it's loud and mean. Gonna take the car out a little later to get some E85 and give the no-lift shift a try as well. I'd say that the install was probably a 3 or 4 out 10 in terms of difficulty. If I had he right tools, it could've been done much quicker. I'm a total noob to soldering and I had 3 friends with me to help or take over whenever necessary. Took a few nights to finish but that's cause we were putting in a little time each night after work. All in all, I'm sure if I had to do it again I could do it much quicker now. Also, thanks to The Game for all your help bud!

Anybody on the fence, I say go for it. If nothing else, it sounds mean as hell.

I'm glad you got it up and going bud! You will like the no lift shift. You'll get faster and be able to lower the MS from the auto setting and be banging gears like there's no tomorrow! Can't wait to wire mine in when I get back home to VA in a few days. Oilfield life owns me lol.

ALLKHEINZ · Jul 18, 2016

I dont think hooking this up to an auto is an issue, instead of wiring it into the clutch switch on a manual you wire it into the brake light switch on the autos....thats how i have my msd 2 step wired in and i believe the wotbox will work the same. used this on my 2010 shelby to run 9.4's and the backfires would be incredible....lol. here is my buddy pauls shelby the first couple times he used the wotbox...we were all ducking running for cover and laughing afterwards....lol

[ame]

SD_GT · Jul 19, 2016

Just a heads up for anyone who shifts quick - start at a lower ms and skip the auto setting all together. It seems like it was hurting my car more then helping it. I'd recommend starting around 275ms and working down in 25ms increments.

Edit: Auto setting was making my car buck really hard between shifts and was actually slower than me lifting to shift.

isedawishy · Jul 21, 2016

SD_GT said:
Hey guys, I started working on this project last night and intend to finish it tonight. The DIY for the 11-14 model does not apply to the 15 and up model at all once you get to the point where you disconnect the connectors from the PCM. For starters, the 15+ GT's only have two PCM connectors whereas the 11-14 models have three. So, in essence it's all guesswork after this point. It's best to get your hands on a copy of the factory PCM's schematics if possible.

Thankfully, I was able to get in contact with someone via SVTP who has actually installed one of these onto an S550 at his shop and he was able to confirm that the instructions for the 11-14 barely apply to the 15+ models. This is the breakdown he gave me - I'm fairly confident this wiring schematic will work but I'm posting in case I may have written something down incorrectly and/or to help other S550 owners who may be interested in the Wot-Box.

Feel free to correct me if any of the wiring is incorrect. I wrote it down in a hurry on some scratch paper.

1) (Short) Black wot-box wire --> Ground.

2) Green wot-box wire (clutch input) --> Pin #8 on connector C175B. Solder into Green/Violet wire.

3) Yellow wot-box wire (rpm input) --> Pin #70 on connector C175E. Solder into Yellow/Violet wire.

4) Blue wot-box wire (Throttle Position Sensor) --> Pin #60 on connector C175B. Solder into Blue/White wire.

5) Orange wot-box wire (Ignition Coil Power OUT) --> This replaces the black wire of the Red/Black paired wires. Solder into violet side wire end leading away from the fuse box. Violet wire under fuse 44 (15A). "Solder into the harness"? Not sure what that means.

6) Red wot-box wire (Ignition Coil Power IN) --> Solder into violet wire end coming from the fuse box. "Solder into fuse wire block"? Not sure what that means either.

* In the DIY for the 11-14, it labels the PCM connectors as "T", "E" and "B" and indicates which is. Is there a way to differentiate which connector is "E" and which is "B" on the '15+?

* I'm still not 100% clear on soldering in and away from the fuse block. Can anyone explain this to me? I'm sure it would be easier if I was looking at the PCM right now. Stuck at work at the moment.

Thanks,
David.

Is the wiring still valid or were there changes?

SD_GT · Jul 21, 2016

isedawishy said:
Is the wiring still valid or were there changes?

Still valid. :cheers:

isedawishy · Jul 21, 2016

SD_GT said:
Still valid. :cheers:

Thanks, just wish it wasn't so friggin hot outside!

N2mb WOT Box

SolarFlare

Well-Known Member

SD_GT

4-Banger

The Game

Well-Known Member

SD_GT

4-Banger

The Game

Well-Known Member

Chargedguard5.0

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Andrewg

Sun, Sea, Sand and Camels

SD_GT

4-Banger

SD_GT

4-Banger

The Game

Well-Known Member

ALLKHEINZ

Well-Known Member

SD_GT

4-Banger

isedawishy

GTPPTT6REIGHTY

SD_GT

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isedawishy

GTPPTT6REIGHTY