Opg and cg install

I bought the the opg and cg to install this weekend but realized I might have needed to get the arp bolt. Is that a necessity?!?!? And how hard is it putting chain back on correctly?

Yes necessary, stock bolt is Torque to yield (one time use). Not hard at all

The chain was the only scary thing just because if you're off a tooth everything comes back off.
What I did was put the keyway on the crankshaft at the 12 o clock position and had the QR code on the cam phasers visible. If theyre not, just rotate the crank, you're 180 out.
Mark the link that goes directly above the cam phasers L or R mark, and use another color to mark the link thats directly above the keyway on the crank.
Take a picture of the crank gear side just for reference because you're replacing the gear and wallah

Yes you need the ARP bolt for sure. Do nothing more and nothing less than follow the simple Ford direction on how time remove chains and retime the motor. The Ford direction are so simple and many man here have done and will help you if you get stuck or have questions. I can send you the Ford instructions if needed.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53162

Links for timing procedure within

like roh92cp said, simply follow the ford directions. Just remember that you don't remove both chains at the same time. One side gets removed then you turn the motor over like the directions say and remove the other side. I've never worked on this motor before and it was simple as long as you have some common sense and mechanical skills.

Oh crap, been driving mine for about 1000 miles with a non ARP bolt from Fastenal. Seeing that the ARP is required has me worried, I'm at work and just saw this thread. Think it's safe to drive home, or should I get a flatbed tow? The bolt from Fastenal was a grade 12.9 so it's stronger than stock, buts it's not from ARP.

Or you can use another new OEM bolt from Ford. That's what I did and it worked great.

Lol, the ARP bolt is not necessary. A new Ford bolt is perfectly fine.

Jeff's FRC said:

Lol, the ARP bolt is not necessary. A new Ford bolt is perfectly fine.

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But, but, but, two guys said it is absolutely needed. Hmm, maybe it's safe for me to drive it without one after all. Close call.

Jeff's FRC said:

Lol, the ARP bolt is not necessary. A new Ford bolt is perfectly fine.

Click to expand...

Bartly said:

But, but, but, two guys said it is absolutely needed. Hmm, maybe it's safe for me to drive it without one after all. Close call.

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I think they just meant you need a new bolt. Not necessarily an ARP branded one.

Bartly said:

But, but, but, two guys said it is absolutely needed. Hmm, maybe it's safe for me to drive it without one after all. Close call.

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Did you torque to the spec called out in the Ford service manual?

Bartly said:

Oh crap, been driving mine for about 1000 miles with a non ARP bolt from Fastenal. Seeing that the ARP is required has me worried, I'm at work and just saw this thread. Think it's safe to drive home, or should I get a flatbed tow? The bolt from Fastenal was a grade 12.9 so it's stronger than stock, buts it's not from ARP.

Click to expand...

dsp4848 said:

Or you can use another new OEM bolt from Ford. That's what I did and it worked great.

Click to expand...

Jeff's FRC said:

Lol, the ARP bolt is not necessary. A new Ford bolt is perfectly fine.

Click to expand...

Bartly said:

But, but, but, two guys said it is absolutely needed. Hmm, maybe it's safe for me to drive it without one after all. Close call.

Click to expand...

I'm sorry for the confusion, and I may have added to that. If you go with an after market damper then I would always us an ARP bolt. If you are installing stock damper than you could use either a NEW stock bolt or an ARP bolt. The stock bolts a torque to yield and can only be used once when torques down. The ARP bolts can be used more than once.

^ditto

I think either would work.