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cjgt350

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CSL

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How much life relative to stock pads are you getting with the Raybestos pads? Any issues with swapping them in/out with stock without changing rotors?
You get ridiculous life out of these pads. I've got four hardcore track days on them and there is about 3/4 pad thickness left. I would have been close to going through two sets of stock front pads by now. I run stock rear pads with these and they are wearing at a similar rate. This setup is perfect for my driving style. Apart from how quickly the stock pads got used up, I also needed more bite.

I don't DD my car and the Raybestos pads have excellent cold bite, so I don't have the need to swap them often. When I did swap them on my GT500, there was no issue with using the same rotors. After you blow them up on the track the squealing pretty much goes away for a bit and then it comes back again just in time for another track day.
 

CSL

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Ran with Proformance for twilight lapping. Was thinking about doing either the 8/4 or 8/11 T2 days at the Ridge.

How does the Schroth Quickfit mount?
I'll be out there on the 11th....hope to see you. Looks like you got your answers on the harness.
 

VooDoo387R

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Thanks for the link. I'll have to look and see if this will work without the backseat hardware.
I just got mine and it doesn't look like they will. But I also purchased the back seat. I'm interested as well to see if someone has run these without, but you need the bolt it to the child latch. I guess I could see someone cutting a hole in the seat delete, but I would never do that.
 

tdzee

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.....it doesn't look like they will....interested to see if someone has run these without, but you need the bolt it to the child latch. I guess I could see someone cutting a hole in the seat delete, but I would never do that.
I have a 17 base R and have been pondering this question: what to connect to in the back seat area? I would be willing to cut a slot in the black cardboard thing. Are you saying that the mounting points don't exist under there and it requires additional parts/HW? Pls explain if you have checked.

Thanks for any info. :cheers::ford:
 

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cjgt350

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I have a 17 base R and have been pondering this question: what to connect to in the back seat area? I would be willing to cut a slot in the black cardboard thing. Are you saying that the mounting points don't exist under there and it requires additional parts/HW? Pls explain if you have checked.

Thanks for any info. :cheers::ford:
You would need the rear inboard seat belt receptacle. The outboard rear harness comes with a bolt in connector (inc male/female ends) so would just need the bolt. Cut two slots and done. Not quite as simple to complete as that sounds though.

Whether the Quick Fit or Pro they both tether the shoulder harnesses the same way. Neither use the child latch attachment point as was mentioned above. That is compromising the design in a crash as the shoulder harness is designed to pull at a certain angle where the child anchor is more straight back. Don't take that from me though as you can call HMS Motorsports for guidance.

But if it were me I would just buy a harness bar and the Schroth ProFi II ASM 4 pt harness then if you ever go with a roll bar and still want to utilize the OEM seat you can use the same harness. Speaking from experience I had the Quick Fit Pro...worked great then decided to go rear seat delete, Watson 4 pt and Schroth Profi II ASM. But I had a back seat already to start with.

BTW...adding a HANS device to the ASM harness takes your safety up a notch too. Video shows the harness in action.

[ame]
 
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Zitrosounds

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I have a 17 base R and have been pondering this question: what to connect to in the back seat area? I would be willing to cut a slot in the black cardboard thing. Are you saying that the mounting points don't exist under there and it requires additional parts/HW? Pls explain if you have checked.

Thanks for any info. :cheers::ford:
I have a base R as well. I contacted the vendor and they recommended the rally 4 belt for a base R install. It does not required the belt latches as you bolt the belts directly to the frame. That's what I am going with. They also sell the required hardware.
https://www.schrothracing.com/products/rallye-belts
 

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You should not be experiencing brake fade unless something else is wrong, air in the fluid or pads that are too thin?

As mentioned, pro drivers have been able to go all day without issue on the stock set-up. I'd recommend a flush and refill with SRF and see if it solves the problem.
 

honeybadger

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You should not be experiencing brake fade unless something else is wrong, air in the fluid or pads that are too thin?

As mentioned, pro drivers have been able to go all day without issue on the stock set-up. I'd recommend a flush and refill with SRF and see if it solves the problem.
Just because a pro driver isn't getting brake fade at a particular track, doesn't mean that the car doesn't get brake fade. Not trying to be a jerk, but this is an important nuance. The 350 can very much get brake fade, it just depends on driver style (and skill), track and other variables (such as tires, temps, etc...).
 

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Just because a pro driver isn't getting brake fade at a particular track, doesn't mean that the car doesn't get brake fade. Not trying to be a jerk, but this is an important nuance. The 350 can very much get brake fade, it just depends on driver style (and skill), track and other variables (such as tires, temps, etc...).
I will explain further. Billy Johnson, who was involved in the development of the car, believes that the stock system will not experience brake fade anywhere under normal conditions. I had this conversation with him 2 weekends ago before taking to the track in 93 degree weather on a track with 2 consecutive hard braking zones that will induce fade in lesser prepared cars.

Certainly a poorly driven car can induce fade as a result of improper braking technique, but given the experience of the OP that did not seem to be a likely cause.
 

mmm635

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The stock pads are much better than the DSUNO pads as far as on-track performance is concerned. Never experienced fade in my 350 with SRF - the stock fluid was like Pepsi after my first event.

You can buy three sets of OEM fronts for the price of the DSUNO's - will try the G-Loc
 

Hack

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Certainly a poorly driven car can induce fade as a result of improper braking technique, but given the experience of the OP that did not seem to be a likely cause.
What would this be (improper technique)? Are you seriously trying to suggest that someone is going to 2 foot their GT350 around a track?
 

J_Maher_AMG

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Just because a pro driver isn't getting brake fade at a particular track, doesn't mean that the car doesn't get brake fade. Not trying to be a jerk, but this is an important nuance. The 350 can very much get brake fade, it just depends on driver style (and skill), track and other variables (such as tires, temps, etc...).
Completely agree, BUT we all know Randy Pobst is no slouch in the driving department, and the car was tested on Laguna Seca which is one of the hardest tracks, if not the hardest, on a car's braking system in the US. Also had no issues at Chuckwalla or Willow Springs when they tested the 350 and R at them.

I never thought about pad thickness when I posted prior, but I would assume the more they are worn towards the end of their life some fade could be introduced. But if guys are like that aren't getting fade, and lets face it they are driving the cars FAR harder than anyone on this forum, then there logically shouldn't be any issues for any of us :shrug:

IMO a change to better brake fluid and OP should have all the braking he'd ever need. Those Raybestos pads that others are talking about sound pretty tempting though if they last much longer, but the squealing would get annoying on a primarily street driven car I think.
 

Hack

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Completely agree, BUT we all know Randy Pobst is no slouch in the driving department, and the car was tested on Laguna Seca which is one of the hardest tracks, if not the hardest, on a car's braking system in the US. Also had no issues at Chuckwalla or Willow Springs when they tested the 350 and R at them.

I never thought about pad thickness when I posted prior, but I would assume the more they are worn towards the end of their life some fade could be introduced. But if guys are like that aren't getting fade, and lets face it they are driving the cars FAR harder than anyone on this forum, then there logically shouldn't be any issues for any of us :shrug:

IMO a change to better brake fluid and OP should have all the braking he'd ever need. Those Raybestos pads that others are talking about sound pretty tempting though if they last much longer, but the squealing would get annoying on a primarily street driven car I think.
Why do I seem to remember a GT350 instrumented test versus a Chevy product where the brakes in the GT350 were glazed from being used too hard the day before? I know it's not the same thing as fade, but it's another symptom of the brakes getting hot from track use. The 60-0 on the GT350 was way out of line compared to the normal time.
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