earlSpilner
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ok glad I was not the only one.
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Aftermarket GT350 Transmission Cooler Install w/ pics & part list (Base & Tech Pack))
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montreal ponies
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Thx Earl, nice to see a Canuck tackle this job, if i ever decide to add the coolers, i know all i'll have to do is drive a few hours and bring a case of Molson. :cheers:
earlSpilner
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Part 3: the upper bracket and pump mount.
imaged2 (002) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ Start but cutting an 17" long piece of flat steel. This will form the vertical support of the lower bracket. The two front rad support I don't think would support the weight of a rad and pump.
image1dd (009) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ next drill a hole in the top big enough for a 3/8" bolt. It should line up with the rectangular hole in an upper support above and to the right of the windshield washer tank. It's the same metal piece that part of the headlights bolt to and where the fuse box is grounded with several wires. In the above picture my wrench handle is pointing at the hole.
imagedd3 by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^Same hole viewed from above. Note the yellow marking I added at the bottom of the hole.
imageddd by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^next you need to add a bend then a twist to the bar. The bend needs to move about the bracket 1" to 1.5" over toward the windshield washer reservoir. When mocking this up it home the goal is to get the bar (when bolted to the car as above) to end up at your lower bracket. Once that's done you need to add the twist so it will be flush with the lower bracket angle.
imaged5 by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ once done it should look like this.
image1 dd(00A) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^now here comes the fun part. Create two 2 brackets for the pump to sit on. Once that is done I recommend installing everything with vice grips to ensure it's lining up and clearing things like it should. Pay attention to the height of the pump. If it's to high it will hit the brake cooling duct. If to low the pump output will hit the bumper when you attach the 90deg swivel and lastly if it too far forward (ie closer to you when mocking up through the fender well) it will hit the cooler. So this is a really good step to pause, get a beer or slurpee and ponder if you got everything in its right place.
When you got it right start drilling holes and put it all together
Next couple of pictures are what my final bracket looked like at this stage.
imagegg2 (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
imageggg3 (002) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image4gg (002) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image5 (0dd2) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image6dddd by bmalkins2, on Flickr
My next post we move onto the rad...
^ Start but cutting an 17" long piece of flat steel. This will form the vertical support of the lower bracket. The two front rad support I don't think would support the weight of a rad and pump.
^ next drill a hole in the top big enough for a 3/8" bolt. It should line up with the rectangular hole in an upper support above and to the right of the windshield washer tank. It's the same metal piece that part of the headlights bolt to and where the fuse box is grounded with several wires. In the above picture my wrench handle is pointing at the hole.
^Same hole viewed from above. Note the yellow marking I added at the bottom of the hole.
^next you need to add a bend then a twist to the bar. The bend needs to move about the bracket 1" to 1.5" over toward the windshield washer reservoir. When mocking this up it home the goal is to get the bar (when bolted to the car as above) to end up at your lower bracket. Once that's done you need to add the twist so it will be flush with the lower bracket angle.
^ once done it should look like this.
^now here comes the fun part. Create two 2 brackets for the pump to sit on. Once that is done I recommend installing everything with vice grips to ensure it's lining up and clearing things like it should. Pay attention to the height of the pump. If it's to high it will hit the brake cooling duct. If to low the pump output will hit the bumper when you attach the 90deg swivel and lastly if it too far forward (ie closer to you when mocking up through the fender well) it will hit the cooler. So this is a really good step to pause, get a beer or slurpee and ponder if you got everything in its right place.
When you got it right start drilling holes and put it all together
Next couple of pictures are what my final bracket looked like at this stage.
My next post we move onto the rad...
earlSpilner
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Us Canucks have to home brew as much of this stuff as possible because buying a kit (if one existed) would be painfully expensive with the US exchange rate and Fedx charging stupid money for customs. Hence the Canadian tire builds. I'm a socialist at heart (guess which colour I vote
) so I bought as much of this stuff as possible from my local none-chain parts store (JB's Power center https://www.jbspowercentre.com/ ) They ship free in Canada FYI. I believe in keeping the cash local as much as practical.earlSpilner
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Last part: Rad mounting and the hoses
image1$$ (00B) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ so next up you are going to need to make a bracket for the Rad. I would start with the upper bracket. Just like the lower bracket it will need a bend in it to match the angle of the rad.
When mocking this up I aimed to get the rad as close as possible to the windshield washer reservoir. This was for two reasons 1) it meant shorter more stable brackets and 2) I needed the output of the rad to miss the input of the pump (see pictures)
image5$$ (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^installed picture of the upper rad mount
image3$$ (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^
The lower rand bracket goes the length of the bottom of the rad and actually comes in just above the main lower bracket. The original intention was for this to be level with the main bracket but with the pump it wouldn't work. As a result the extra vertical tab was needed
Next couple of picture show the fully complete bracket out of the car. I would expect yours would look something like this.
image2$$ (004) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image4$$ (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ IMPORTANT note how in this picture the pump is NOT LEVEL with the ground. In order to have output of the pump end up in that indent space in the bumper I needed to angle the pump up about 10ish degrees from the horizontal plane of the car.
This picture also shows why the rad has to be higher than the main bracket or else it would block the input of the pump.
image8$$ by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^Next up plumbing. Note that it is way easier to install the output line on the pump (pump to transmission fill) with the rad not installed.
Three hoses need to be made:
1) Pump output to transmission fill. This is the longest hose and should be made first as installing this hose BEFORE installing the rad will make you life way easier. Like all the hoses add 90 degree fittings on each end. If you haven't already install the 3/8 to 8AN fittings on the pump using some sealant on the threads and the 1/2 to 8AN fittings on the transmission and rad.
2)next do the trans drain to rad hose.
3)lastly make the super short (like 5") rad to pump hose
image6$$ (002) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ giving an idea just how close the rad and pump hoses are to each other
image7$$ by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image9$$ by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ Next up wire up the pump. I wired the pump using the stock grounding location just to the right of the Windshield washer reservoir. For the positive I tapped the pos input to the fuse box. From there I ran it through a 10amp fuse and a switch. In the future I plan to replace this with a relay and a in car mounted switch. But I was running out of time before my track day. The result? The car ran hard in 25C outside temp. No sign of limp mode.
^ so next up you are going to need to make a bracket for the Rad. I would start with the upper bracket. Just like the lower bracket it will need a bend in it to match the angle of the rad.
When mocking this up I aimed to get the rad as close as possible to the windshield washer reservoir. This was for two reasons 1) it meant shorter more stable brackets and 2) I needed the output of the rad to miss the input of the pump (see pictures)
^installed picture of the upper rad mount
^
The lower rand bracket goes the length of the bottom of the rad and actually comes in just above the main lower bracket. The original intention was for this to be level with the main bracket but with the pump it wouldn't work. As a result the extra vertical tab was needed
Next couple of picture show the fully complete bracket out of the car. I would expect yours would look something like this.
^ IMPORTANT note how in this picture the pump is NOT LEVEL with the ground. In order to have output of the pump end up in that indent space in the bumper I needed to angle the pump up about 10ish degrees from the horizontal plane of the car.
This picture also shows why the rad has to be higher than the main bracket or else it would block the input of the pump.
^Next up plumbing. Note that it is way easier to install the output line on the pump (pump to transmission fill) with the rad not installed.
Three hoses need to be made:
1) Pump output to transmission fill. This is the longest hose and should be made first as installing this hose BEFORE installing the rad will make you life way easier. Like all the hoses add 90 degree fittings on each end. If you haven't already install the 3/8 to 8AN fittings on the pump using some sealant on the threads and the 1/2 to 8AN fittings on the transmission and rad.
2)next do the trans drain to rad hose.
3)lastly make the super short (like 5") rad to pump hose
^ giving an idea just how close the rad and pump hoses are to each other
^ Next up wire up the pump. I wired the pump using the stock grounding location just to the right of the Windshield washer reservoir. For the positive I tapped the pos input to the fuse box. From there I ran it through a 10amp fuse and a switch. In the future I plan to replace this with a relay and a in car mounted switch. But I was running out of time before my track day. The result? The car ran hard in 25C outside temp. No sign of limp mode.
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autobahnGT350
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This is a great write up and effort for the base and tech Shelby owners. Greatly apppreciated by all for sure. Glad to hear that the fruits of your labor paid off.
Is the pump and cooler something that can be sourced in the US as well?
I am in Virginia, I wonder how far it is to your place....
Is the pump and cooler something that can be sourced in the US as well?
I am in Virginia, I wonder how far it is to your place....
earlSpilner
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The pump was actually ordered from Racer Parts Wholesale out of IN and the B&M supercooler line, at least in Canada, seems to be carried by every parts store around so I would expect you could find the same one locally.
As for how far away I am from you google says 3782km (2350miles)
montreal ponies
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OMG, you're way out west.The pump was actually ordered from Racer Parts Wholesale out of IN and the B&M supercooler line, at least in Canada, seems to be carried by every parts store around so I would expect you could find the same one locally.
As for how far away I am from you google says 3782km (2350miles)
Caballus
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Great thread! Has anyone installed the actual FP kit on a tech or base transmission? I know a few, like the OP and SVTDSM have gone with other aftermarket brands and Hack and 50Deep have done the total trans swap. Haven't seen any FP swaps though. Leaning hard that direction to ease shipping woes.
lemers
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The FP kit is made to be installed with the transmission swap.
If you use it you will still need additional hardware like lines because the ones in the kit will not work with an external pump.
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Caballus
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Yeah, I know I'll need a pump and brake vent, but I think everything else comes with it. After 15* laps of babying it around the N'ring Monday, I'm ready for a cooler!
lemers
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The lines that come with it wont work either.
From what ive read; for $600 you are getting a bracket and cooler. Most of the rest wont help witg an external pump.
Im still trying to see what is the best way to go for me.
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rb92gt
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FP Kit
As Lemers said, unfortunately the kit has many parts you don't need if not swapping the transmission, such as hard lines, etc. and it doesn't have the electric external pump, so still need to get that separate anyway. Best to individually source most parts. I plan to buy the duct on it's own, everything else will be separate. I suspect all said and done I will spend less than the FP kit and I will have the pump too. In no particular rush as no plans to track car anytime soon and my temps are fine on the street, but appreciate everyone posting how they did it as it will make my work easier.
lemers
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Nice color by the wayLast part: Rad mounting and the hoses
image1$$ (00B) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ so next up you are going to need to make a bracket for the Rad. I would start with the upper bracket. Just like the lower bracket it will need a bend in it to match the angle of the rad.
When mocking this up I aimed to get the rad as close as possible to the windshield washer reservoir. This was for two reasons 1) it meant shorter more stable brackets and 2) I needed the output of the rad to miss the input of the pump (see pictures)
image5$$ (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^installed picture of the upper rad mount
image3$$ (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^
The lower rand bracket goes the length of the bottom of the rad and actually comes in just above the main lower bracket. The original intention was for this to be level with the main bracket but with the pump it wouldn't work. As a result the extra vertical tab was needed
Next couple of picture show the fully complete bracket out of the car. I would expect yours would look something like this.
image2$$ (004) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image4$$ (003) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ IMPORTANT note how in this picture the pump is NOT LEVEL with the ground. In order to have output of the pump end up in that indent space in the bumper I needed to angle the pump up about 10ish degrees from the horizontal plane of the car.
This picture also shows why the rad has to be higher than the main bracket or else it would block the input of the pump.
image8$$ by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^Next up plumbing. Note that it is way easier to install the output line on the pump (pump to transmission fill) with the rad not installed.
Three hoses need to be made:
1) Pump output to transmission fill. This is the longest hose and should be made first as installing this hose BEFORE installing the rad will make you life way easier. Like all the hoses add 90 degree fittings on each end. If you haven't already install the 3/8 to 8AN fittings on the pump using some sealant on the threads and the 1/2 to 8AN fittings on the transmission and rad.
2)next do the trans drain to rad hose.
3)lastly make the super short (like 5") rad to pump hose
image6$$ (002) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ giving an idea just how close the rad and pump hoses are to each other
image7$$ by bmalkins2, on Flickr
image9$$ by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^ Next up wire up the pump. I wired the pump using the stock grounding location just to the right of the Windshield washer reservoir. For the positive I tapped the pos input to the fuse box. From there I ran it through a 10amp fuse and a switch. In the future I plan to replace this with a relay and a in car mounted switch. But I was running out of time before my track day. The result? The car ran hard in 25C outside temp. No sign of limp mode.
Gilby
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I plan to buy a replacement cooler for mine and then get the fitting to convert it to an AN fitting. I think that will eliminate the need for the radiator bracket. I will come up with something to mount the pump though. My dad gets parts for much cheaper than I can go in and buy them since he has his own shop. We'll see though.
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