do I need to apply high-temp anti-seize for tranny/diff drain/fill bolts?

arsenalrocks said:

I think i know what you are referring to, there are some red "paste" on the plug, and I think they are meant to act as a sealant.

at the end I didn't use anything additional.

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Yes, the red stuff is what I am referring to. I cannot speak with any technical knowledge about whether that sealant is reusable. I can tell you I did not apply any additional or "new" sealant to the diff drain and fill plugs when I changed my diff fluid. Maybe that was not correct, but the red stuff was still relatively flexible and I have maybe 1,000 miles with no leaks.

what ford says

its a taper pipe thread so don't over tighten, one guy cracked the casing. I've had very good luck with permatex where others have failed. Also comes off without heat. On pressure washer fittings at 3500psi and hydraulic lines on my tractors where shock and vibration is severe its the only that keeps them tight. The Teflon based paste failed because it wouldn't keep the connection tight, Now this drain plug has no pressure just the voodoo vibration and a tyranny that gets hot enough for limp 293'F. Now what I do is wire brush the existing stuff off, clean with brake cleaner the coat the thread let it dry while it drains, then take small screw driver and rag over the end and clean the hole and inspect. But here is what ford says

When you look it up they call it an adhesives at $ 9 for tiny tube

cking said:

But here is what ford says

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Yeah - that's the stuff you want to use!

Demonic said:

Are you changing the fluids because you actually have that much mileage or for another reason?

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I just noticed that the GT350 Supplement mentions on Page 46:

Additionally, perform multi-point inspection and the maintenance outlined in the 150000 mile (240000 kilometer) normal maintenance schedule of the scheduled maintenance before and after track use.

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On Page 52, the 150,000 mile normal maintenance schedule includes changing the transmission and differential fluid.

Makes sense, I suppose, although it's probably overkill...

I used T-tape. No issues on any vehicle for the last 20 years.

THX 138 said:

I just noticed that the GT350 Supplement mentions on Page 46:



On Page 52, the 150,000 mile normal maintenance schedule includes changing the transmission and differential fluid.

Makes sense, I suppose, although it's probably overkill...

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I forget at the moment whether this is in the main owner's manual or the Shelby supplement, but there is a recommendation to change the diff fluid after a few hours (3?) of track use. That's why I changed mine with less than 4K miles on the car.

RadBOSS said:

The thicker oil will make it run hotter, with or without cooler. Is that what you really want?

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Care to explain?

arsenalrocks said:

going to change the tranny and diff fluid tonight, just wondering if I need to apply any special anti-seize for the drain+fill bolts?

I got some of this, wonder if i should use it

thanks

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The fittings are simple tapered pipe thread fittings, teflon tape, teflon paste are just different forms of the same thing. The are simply there to help lubricate the threads and help with sealing. The thread is doing most of the sealing. It is just a drain plug on a Mustang, no need to make it rocket ship complicated. Any of the Ford, Permatex, Loctite sealants designed for this purpose will also work but properly applied teflon tape serves the same purpose.

cking said:

its a taper pipe thread so don't over tighten, one guy cracked the casing. I've had very good luck with permatex where others have failed. Also comes off without heat. On pressure washer fittings at 3500psi and hydraulic lines on my tractors where shock and vibration is severe its the only that keeps them tight. The Teflon based paste failed because it wouldn't keep the connection tight, Now this drain plug has no pressure just the voodoo vibration and a tyranny that gets hot enough for limp 293'F. Now what I do is wire brush the existing stuff off, clean with brake cleaner the coat the thread let it dry while it drains, then take small screw driver and rag over the end and clean the hole and inspect. But here is what ford says

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Is there a link where you can get the service manual you linked that has instructions on how to do any maintenance required?

Also curious about the letting the car idle part. I just did the transmission/diff oil change this past week, and when I performed the transmission oil change, I measured approximately 2.5L of oil that came out of the car. This is contrast to the 2.4L filling capacity stated in the owner's supplement. I refilled the car with the same 2.5L, and actually had a very very minor "leak" from the fill plug as I guess I pumped in a few ml too much. Just waited for that leak to stop, and replaced the fill plug.

Does anyone think that I should attempt to "top up" the transmission oil again based on the manuals instructions? Or should I be fine to go since I replaced essentially exactly the same amount that came out of the car? :shrug:

there is a place you can rent service manual access, or spend $177 with helm to buy a CD, that won't run a surface pro, but will run on most win10 machines. I always get the manuals they give hours reading fun [sic]. I would check again and fill as directed. I'm not tape fan and never tried that motorcraft adhesive. I like post manual pages to settle how to questions.

Fill to bottom of fill hole on transmission in Shelby.

Trans Drain & Fill