Sponsored
MGW install kicking my @$$
- Thread starter HoosierDaddy
- Start date
- Watchers 17
Driversound
Well-Known Member
This step is the hardest part of the install for me as well. What I did was unbolted the driveshaft support so I can pull the driveshaft lower. I know it's hard to pull on the tranny/driveshaft while you're on jackstands while also trying to put that bolt in but somehow I managed to do it.
Bob_Whit
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2016
- Threads
- 36
- Messages
- 228
- Reaction score
- 51
- Location
- Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GT Premium PP
Can you grind a flat spot on the bolt & washer to get past the hang up?
randotheking
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2016
- Threads
- 62
- Messages
- 524
- Reaction score
- 71
- Location
- Cincinnati
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Mustang GTPP
Boomba was so easy
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #35
I'm going to get back to this tomorrow.
Why did you do that rather than unbolt the DS from the trans? On my GT, the DS to trans bolts are easy to get to but the support (if I understand what that is) is above the resonator and I don't see how you could unbolt it without dropping the exhaust first.
Sponsored
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #36
Good idea. But by itself it wouldn't be enough, at least on my car. I can see the bolt head would still hit before the bolt was level enough to go in. Maybe what else I do isn't enough.
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #37
And doing nothing is easier than Boomba. I like easy, but it sure isn't the top priority. Boomba may be better than stock, but the MGW is better yet.
I didn't want "some" improvement over stock, I wanted the most possible, so passed on the Boomba.
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks.
I can see how it would hold it down but 2 questions?
How did you get it down enough to get the 2x4s in? My problem is I can't pull it down far enough for even a 3rd party to get the bolt in so couldn't pull it down enough to get something thick enough in between the cross-member and car.
Were you worried about tearing the rubber? The cross-member is two metal parts sandwiching a thick layer of rubber which appears to just be bonded together by some adhesive. That is okay since the sandwich is normally in compression. But the 2x4s would be between the car and the bottom metal piece (the top is no wider than the rubber). I would be worried the bottom metal part could just pulls free from the rest.
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #39
Actually, shaking the car off the jack-stands while under it is my plan B if all else fails. LoL
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #40
It sounds great. Does that let the trans hang enough to get this bolt in without pulling the trans down some more?
Sponsored
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #41
LoL, at first I thought you were commenting on the post above yours and saying some heat shield on the bottom of the car could get dented if the car fell off the jack stands.
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2015
- Threads
- 10
- Messages
- 841
- Reaction score
- 205
- Location
- Near Pittsburgh, PA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GT, Black, PP
- Banned
- #42
Slide an eight foot two by four under the car, tie a rope from the end of that to the tail shaft of the tranny. Use a block of wood between the two by four and the car frame. On the other end of the two by four you can now use a jack to raise that end of the wood which will pull down the tranny. Upside down seesaw, see!
T-S550-X
Well-Known Member
When installing the barton shifter, the transmission cross member is removed completely. Is that a part of the MGW install ?
When installing the same bolt in mine I had zero issues with space. When doing the same on a friends car, it was a bit more of a hassle for the same reason you are having. With the cross member removed, there is enough space to pull down on the transmission and create space.
When installing the same bolt in mine I had zero issues with space. When doing the same on a friends car, it was a bit more of a hassle for the same reason you are having. With the cross member removed, there is enough space to pull down on the transmission and create space.
OP
OP
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #44
The MGW install videos say to unbolt the cross-member from the car but leave it bolted to the trans. The stated reason is to ensures the transmission isn't over raised when buttoning up.
I'm not seeing how also unbolting the cross-member from the transmission and removing it would help. In fact removing it would mean you have to pull down even harder, admittedly not much, because the cross-member weight isn't helping.
When you say you had zero issues with space, do you mean the bolt would go in without ever touching the tunnel or that it was easy to get your arm/hand up there? I'm not having any issue with space for my hand even with the cross-member in place. My transmission is just significantly closer to the tunnel than the bolt is long even when pulled down as much as I can laying on my back.
T-S550-X
Well-Known Member
Barton video says to remove the cross member completely. I guess it just isn't that big of a deal either way, but it did give me more space under the car.
On my car that bolt access wasn't difficult. On a friends, I had issues with clearance where you are. We just pulled down on the tail of the tranny more to gain room and push the bolt in. The sound deadening material / fire retardant material was what the bolt head was pushing against, like your pic.
Just FYI, we also did both cars on jack stands. Can you elevate the car higher ? Both cars we did the barton's on had the Steeda jacking rails. My friend's had the newer lower profile version.
Sponsored