).
well - I am VERY glad I don't need to pull the bumper off again to put the clip back in !That clip sits on top of the headlight (or the bottom?) and is used to 'snap' the light in place before you put the bolts on. Once you fixed the lights with bolts you are ok also without that
Hi Allan, who did yours for you as they look magic
Hi Simon, cheers mate... I did them myself.
[MENTION=20783]steerage250[/MENTION] Regarding your 4th point above, let me share my experience with you all. First of all, these DRL boards are great. European Mustangs (like Australian ones) come without those shark gills DRLs, so these boards completely changed the personality of my car. Plus DD offers an unparalleled customer service.
in order to do the connections the right way. I withdrew the faulty T-Tap connectors and I took my time to splice carefully the wires on all connections the old traditional way. After splicing them, I wrapped each connection initially with normal electrician's tape and then I used self-fusing rubber tape in order to make the connections strong, waterproof and heat resistant. For that I used 3M Scotch Rubber Splicing Tape 23 (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...h-Rubber-Splicing-Tape-23?N=4294922059&rt=rud).Thanks Makis, knowing your experience now, I would have soldered them while I had the bumper off and be done with it once and for all. (Having said that, swapping the red and white over to make them work correctly wouldn't have been such a simple exercise
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[MENTION=20783]steerage250[/MENTION] Regarding your 4th point above, let me share my experience with you all. First of all, these DRL boards are great. European Mustangs (like Australian ones) come without those shark gills DRLs, so these boards completely changed the personality of my car. Plus DD offers an unparalleled customer service.
I installed the Diode Dynamics' new tribar LED Boards with sequential turn signal a couple of months ago. At first they were working perfectly. A few days after the installation, the DRL function of one of them (the right one) was not working (all other functions were OK). I contacted Paul through the forums and, after following his detailed instructions, I found out that one of the T-Tap connectors was not making the connection very well. I fixed it with pliers and then everything was back to normal...
...until a couple of days ago! Now the left one was not working when the headlights were on or when I put the switch to the parking lights position. After reaching for the relevant connection through the wheel well liner, I realized once again that the T-Tap connector was not making a good connection. I tried to fix it like I did for the right one, but it wouldn't stay on permanently.
So I decided to do what I never wanted: remove the front bumper (again :doh
Now everything works perfectly, as it should be and everything seems to be heat and water resistant. I believe that they will last forever. If you decide to use Diode Dynamics' front tribar DRL boards, I strongly - STRONGLY - suggest that you replace the inefficient T-Tap connectors when you first install them. The probabilities are that sooner or later they will stop working properly, you will be pissed off and you will have to do everything all over again, like I did... :shrug:
If anyone needs a quick 101 on car wire splicing, here is a very useful link (I used the Westinghouse Split): http://www.musclecardiy.com/automot...motive-electrical-connections-and-connectors/
They have been told several times.
Seriosuly Makis, they make the job 100 times easier. Best things ever. Also, I put the jacking rails on and so so so pleased I did. They make life so much easier.