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Drove a 51k 18 gt

Dominant1

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That's where I'm at. I've modded my car to make it exactly how I want it. Full bolt-ons for performance. Still want to do a supercharger. 20in wheels, cowl hood, side scoops and big spoiler out back for looks. I took a really good car and made it perfect......To me. Why trade? All the new stuff is awesome. And it gives the paper racers something to debate stock for stock.
Yes I'm buying a procharger D1x stage 2 kit today so I'm leaving the n/a world. It was fun for a year but going back to boost was always the plan! Gotta say i never lost a street race that whole time n/a ....
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Ebm

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BREAKING-IN
Tires
New tires need to be run-in for
approximately 300 mi (500 km). During
this time, you may experience different
driving characteristics.
Brakes and Clutch
Avoid heavy use of the brakes and clutch
if possible for the first 100 mi (150 km) in
town and for the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km)
on freeways.
Engine
Avoid driving too fast during the first
1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed
frequently and change up through the
gears early. Do not labor the engine.

Tire break in procedure? That's bs. Get new tires then smoke 'em. Look, you broke them in.

Avoid driving too fast? What's too fast?

Avoid heavy use of the brakes? Gotcha, so as long as you don't lock it up on the highway, you should be fine.

Seriously, that whole procedure is complete and utter shit. Everything on that list is relative to nothing. What is driving too fast? What is heavy braking use?

You don't need a break in procedure to have a car that lasts, you just need common sense. That procedure sounds like it's meant for mouth breathers. :lol:
 

sbrenskell

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Tire break in procedure? That's bs. Get new tires then smoke 'em. Look, you broke them in.

Avoid driving too fast? What's too fast?

Avoid heavy use of the brakes? Gotcha, so as long as you don't lock it up on the highway, you should be fine.

Seriously, that whole procedure is complete and utter shit. Everything on that list is relative to nothing. What is driving too fast? What is heavy braking use?

You don't need a break in procedure to have a car that lasts, you just need common sense. That procedure sounds like it's meant for mouth breathers. :lol:
I will be following that as well. This is my first new mustang so I want to do it right and not ruin anything :)
 

5.0 435

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A few hard runs away from a light won't hurt a thing. In fact, it would probably mean the engine has a long and healthy life. Those that baby their motors from the get-go are the ones that end up with oil burners. And those that jump on them from day 1 have no problems.
A few pulls into the rev limiter will definitely hurt the car on a cold engine 1 mile from the dealership. Especially if 25 people do this within a 2 week period. Heck the tach on a vette doesn’t even show the proper redline until 500 miles are on the car. Don’t baby the car just use 2nd gear hard pulls to put pressure on the cylinder walls. Several people have given good technical knowledge on here.
 
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Hack

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I would hate to be the poor person who has to buy that beat to shit $51K GT.
They are built to take it. If you are going to baby your car constantly, why even consider a Mustang?
 

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bluebeastsrt

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Tire break in procedure? That's bs. Get new tires then smoke 'em. Look, you broke them in.

Avoid driving too fast? What's too fast?

Avoid heavy use of the brakes? Gotcha, so as long as you don't lock it up on the highway, you should be fine.

Seriously, that whole procedure is complete and utter shit. Everything on that list is relative to nothing. What is driving too fast? What is heavy braking use?

You don't need a break in procedure to have a car that lasts, you just need common sense. That procedure sounds like it's meant for mouth breathers. :lol:
Everything on that list is a cover your ass item! Some lowlife scum bag has already used every excuse under the sun. To sue them, after said nitwit wrecked their 400+ horse power vehicle. They were red assing in!
 

Big Boss

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I would hate to be the poor person who has to buy that beat to shit $51K GT.
haha.

My first thought when I read the thread title was sticker shock. I know we have known the prices for a while but the thought of a 50K+ Mustang GT still shocks me. I think the MSRP on my 04 was 26K LOL

I will have to go test drive one. I had the chance to drive a 17 Ecoboost premium and won't lie it was a hell of a car. A hell of a lot more car than my S197 was.
 

stanglife

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Right, and it should be the owner of the vehicle who does it. Not Joe Bubba who test drives a car he has no intention to buy (not saying that is the OP, but this happens all of the time).
If a new owner has a brain in their head - they should have an idea of what to expect when buying a Mustang off the lot with more than 5 miles on it. This isn't a super car.
 

bluebeastsrt

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A few pulls into the rev limiter will definitely hurt the car on a cold engine 1 mile from the dealership. Especially if 15 people do this within a 2 week period. Heck the tach on a vette doesn’t even hit the 6500 redline until 500 miles are on the car. Don’t baby the car just use 2nd gear hard pulls to put pressure on the cylinder walls. Several people have given good technical knowledge on here.
What exactly will it hurt?
 

5.0 435

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What exactly will it hurt?
The poor soul who bought the car. Ask any engine builder about hitting the rev limiter on a new COLD engine 100 times within its first hours of operation. 25 drivers @ wot on a cold engine within two weeks. Maybe a John Deere riding lawn mower will be OK.
 
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People shocked about price of a new car with many improvements (and features) not available on past versions.

What did a loaded 2017 cost.....$47,000 plus?
 

wireeater

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Are a few extra tenths of a second in performance and some small tech upgrades worth 16k... heh... I mean, it all comes down to what you really want but reality is, if you already own a 15-17, just $10k of that money in performance/handling/appearance mods would completely annihilate almost anything you come across.
 

bluebeastsrt

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The poor soul who bought the car. Ask any engine builder about hitting the rev limiter on a new COLD engine 100 times within its first hours of operation. 25 drivers @ wot on a cold engine within two weeks. Maybe a John Deere riding lawn mower will be OK.
I don't know every engine builder. But I do know Woody who owns Fordstrokers.com. He built the 363 stroker in my low 9 second 95GT outlaw car. The OP never said anything about hitting the rev limiter on a cold engine. You added that small detail. How ever I'm going to cut and past what the recommended break in procedure is for my race motor built by Fordstrokers. One of the most respected small block engine builders in the Ford community. See break in procedure below. And understand that any new car will be heat cycled at the factory before delivery.

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Congratulations on your recent Fordstrokers engine purchase. The topic of breaking in a new engine is very subjective and ask 10 people and you will get 8 answers. I will outline the VERY simple steps I have used for the last 15 years. It's not rocket science, it's very simple and effective.
If you are a short block purchaser WITHOUT an oil pump, oil pan, pickup installed. I can NOT stress enough how important oil pump pickup to oil pan clearance is. This clearance is the difference between life and death in a very short time. I recommend .375 to .500 clearance between the pickup and the bottom of the pan. This has worked for me for the last 15 years, but you would be surprised how many people don't even think to measure this clearance. IF the pickup is laying on the bottom of the pan, expect oil starvation very quickly.
If you purchased a short block or long block with oil pump, oil pump pickup and oil pan installed, you need not worry as we have set the pickup clearance already.
Each engine is hand assembled and we use a special teflon additive assembly lube, yes it is very sticky, very messy BUT you MUST ALWAYS prime the oil pump mechanically before starting your new engine for the first time. If you do not own an oil pump shaft priming tool, you can easily use a 1/4 inch extension with a 1/4 inch socket taped to the extension and chucked in your drill. Proceed to spin the drill counterclockwise for 15-20 seconds, rotate the engine 1/4 turn, continue to run the drill again for another 15-20 seconds and turn the engine over by hand another 1/4 turn. Do this until you have turned the engine over a full revolution AND you have oil at all pushrods.
As for the actual break in, unless you have had specific instructions from me in regards to your engine, keep it simple. Run a good oil filter. I have used an FL1A for 15 years with much success, I ALWAYS run a large magnet on the outside of the oil filter, (it obviously won't fall off ) this will keep any small particles in the filter that may have otherwise gotten by.
Again unless I have given you specific instructions, run any name brand conventional 10w30 motor oil. I always do two quick oil changes, about 75-100 miles apart, then cut the filters open to make sure there is nothing in there. After 1000-1500 miles, feel free to run any oil you are comfortable with, whether it be conventional or synthetic.
Now onto the piston rings, the way we hone nowadays and the rings we use, rings are typically seated within minutes, after a few full heat cycles, the rings are surely seated. Take precaution to minimize washing the cylinders with gas on initial startup, if all goes well on the first start, run the engine for a few heat cycles. Feel free to do a leakdown and you will see the rings have seated almost immediately. Once you are comfortable, by all means go ahead and start banging gears. If there is a problem with the engine it will rear it's ugly head quickly. I don't follow or buy into the 1000-2000 mile break in theory, I run my engines hard right from the get-go, and my engines are no different than the one I built for you.
The above guide is strictly a guide, your engine we built may not adhere to the above steps, BUT you will know this because we will talk about your specific engine and I will tell you what steps to follow, but the above guide is a good method to use and has treated me and 100's of my engine customers well.
As usual, any questions please use the contact us page on my store here and we can discuss, again I appreciate your business and friendship more than you know. Take Care
Woody

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Timeless

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Agreed. I find it funny that people think beating on a car with 0.0 miles is okay especially since they know they're not going to buy it and the customer that does isn't aware that their car was beaten on.
Dealerships provide cars for test drives. People should test them in the manner in which they plan on using them.

Anyone bothered by this will obviously order one or work the dealer over to get an extended warranty.

Also, it is a MUSTANG. Yes it is going to be your pride and joy but let's not kid ourselves. It is a mass produced vehicle that you will see tons of on the road.
 

Earlsays

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50,000 dollar mustangs, 100,000 dollar loaded trucks trucks, 30,000+ dollar base model trucks with vinyl seats...

How do people do it? twenty years ago, a 70,000 dollar car was a Viper, 100,000+ was Ferarri/Lambo, etc.

Now, it's middle of the road pedestrian stuff, regular people didn't spend that much on cars two decades ago, did they?

Is the average person really making that much more money now? It's insane. My 2015 GT will be my last new car, most likely...
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