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Do you have audio questions?

JayTea

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Also try disconnecting the front speakers, there's a chance the power could be back feeding into the factory amp if it is still plugged in.
I have all the wires to the factory amp disconnected.

Also just to clarify I have power ran from the battery to a distribution block and then that to the amp.

My friend thinks it may be the remote wire. Is there another remote wire I can connect to? Right now im connected to that blue/white wire in the trunk.
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scott_0

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My friend thinks it may be the remote wire. Is there another remote wire I can connect to? Right now im connected to that blue/white wire in the trunk.
shouldnt be that wire, thats for the back up camera, so it shouldnt cause any issues, especially what youre experiencing
 

cpark_12

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Anyone have a wiring schematic for the base stereo? I'm installing Infinity components in the doors tomorrow. I already put the woofer and tweeter in the passenger door without the Infinity crossover, but my woofer will play for 5 seconds, then no sound comes from it anymore. I'm thinking it's because of the ohm of it, but I'm not sure. The tweeter plays fine. Anyway, I think I want to put the crossover in the kick panels, so I'm looking for where the speaker wires are specifically in under the kick panels. Anyone have any pics, or the schematic for exactly where they're at??

Thanks in advance!
 

2016Gruv

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Anyone have a wiring schematic for the base stereo? I'm installing Infinity components in the doors tomorrow. I already put the woofer and tweeter in the passenger door without the Infinity crossover, but my woofer will play for 5 seconds, then no sound comes from it anymore. I'm thinking it's because of the ohm of it, but I'm not sure. The tweeter plays fine. Anyway, I think I want to put the crossover in the kick panels, so I'm looking for where the speaker wires are specifically in under the kick panels. Anyone have any pics, or the schematic for exactly where they're at??

Thanks in advance!
The load the amp sees is called impedance, measured in ohms, and a mismatch (e.g., 8 vs. 4 ohm) between the speakers and amp has nothing to do with your issue. Speaker impedance is simply a nominal figure and is frequency dependent. If your amp is rated at 100 wpc @ 4 ohms and your speakers are 8 ohm, then your amp will essentially have the capability to put out 50 wpc running full tilt. Something else is causing the problem, perhaps a short/mis-wiring.
 

cpark_12

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So, where are you base model guys mounting your door speaker amps? Also, how are you running the wiring into the doors??
 

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plc268

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I hate to ask what's probably a dumb question with an obvious answer, but:

I have a 4 awg power wire with ring terminal... if I'm hooking up to the battery directly, where am I supposed to connect to? The screw that's part of the clamping mechanism doesn't seem like the best location to do it.

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scott_0

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^^ yes, place the terminal under that conveniently placed nut there
 

plc268

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OK, that was my first thought, it just didn't seem like the best way to do it. Thanks
 

BlackS550

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just had a jl audio stealhbox installed and when the motor is off it sounds amazing, when i turn the motor on the bass is mostly gone ... the shop told me it was due to the active noise control . Im planning to take it to the dealership tomorrow to have them disable it via the computer, because im assuming just "unplugging the mic" isnt going to fix the issue (not even sure there is a mic in mine because i dont see it in the back of the headliner like some of those youtube videos)

its less about hearing exhaust thru the woofer/speakers and more that the sub/amp is basically non-existant when the car is on. soon as you turn the car off, amp seems to kick on and bass sounds amazing, turn it on and no bass
 

scott_0

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just had a jl audio stealhbox installed and when the motor is off it sounds amazing, when i turn the motor on the bass is mostly gone ... the shop told me it was due to the active noise control . Im planning to take it to the dealership tomorrow to have them disable it via the computer, because im assuming just "unplugging the mic" isnt going to fix the issue (not even sure there is a mic in mine because i dont see it in the back of the headliner like some of those youtube videos)

its less about hearing exhaust thru the woofer/speakers and more that the sub/amp is basically non-existant when the car is on. soon as you turn the car off, amp seems to kick on and bass sounds amazing, turn it on and no bass
thats only an issue with the EB cars, cant tell from your signature if you have a GT or an EB.........I didnt do any reprogramming of any sort on my 2016 Premium GT, I used a harness from [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] that gave me rca's and my sub sounds amazing! engine off or on
 

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BlackS550

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yup im a GT PP.

this sentence, from this thread is going to solve my problem i believe

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81507

"My car is a premium so I decided to go the route of grabbing signals pre-amp. "

took it back to install shop today and dude was like yeah theres 2 ways we could have wired it and we didnt do it that way. theyre rewiring it now and im pretty confident that will solve the prob
 

wjfawb0

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Has anyone attempted to add 3.5" door speakers to a base GT 6 speaker system using aftermarket grills and modifying the stock door card?
 

Sargonnas

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Thanks for helping out!


I do have a question.. I'm incredibly disappointed with the rears. They sound like they have a high pass filter on them, and I like them to provide a bit more low end, letting the fronts handle the mids/highs. I recently put 2 12"s in the trunk, and while they provide they sub-lows, there is a wide range missing, probably 75-200hz, if not more. I'd like to replace the rear speakers.


I was looking at doing DD BW6.5s, then just do a cheap amp with speaker level inputs (because I'm lazy and already spent way too much god damned money on the subs).. does this seem like a.. sound plan? I was thinking maybe a compact/motorcycle amp strapped to the top of the rear deck, or in the wheel well with the sub amps and grab power from the distro block for those amps.


I'm not looking for audiophile quality sound.. I love SQ, but I'm dead broke. I just need to fill in those missing lows.. its driving me crazy.


Thanks.
 
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SQ_S550

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Thanks for helping out!


I do have a question.. I'm incredibly disappointed with the rears. They sound like they have a high pass filter on them, and I like them to provide a bit more low end, letting the fronts handle the mids/highs. I recently put 2 12"s in the trunk, and while they provide they sub-lows, there is a wide range missing, probably 75-200hz, if not more. I'd like to replace the rear speakers.


I was looking at doing DD BW6.5s, then just do a cheap amp with speaker level inputs (because I'm lazy and already spent way too much god damned money on the subs).. does this seem like a.. sound plan? I was thinking maybe a compact/motorcycle amp strapped to the top of the rear deck, or in the wheel well with the sub amps and grab power from the distro block for those amps.


I'm not looking for audiophile quality sound.. I love SQ, but I'm dead broke. I just need to fill in those missing lows.. its driving me crazy.


Thanks.
IMHO I would avoid doing the DD6.5 in the rear deck. you will still have the OEM processing to contend with. What converter did you use when adding the subs to your car?

If you are looking to go with DD Id step to the CC 6.5 and upgrade the fronts and put an amp on them $50 more then the mid bass alone but you will also have a super bright tweeter.
 
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SQ_S550

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Has anyone attempted to add 3.5" door speakers to a base GT 6 speaker system using aftermarket grills and modifying the stock door card?
I will be, I am going to be using Audiogfrog grills as they look factoryish and and I'm using Audiofrog speakers!
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