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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

floydbanks28

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You are waaaay too concerned with wattage man. Scott Buwalda's Lexus had 6 JL Audio HD750/1 amplifiers and each amplifier powered one speaker. That's 750 rated watts into voice coils rated to handle 150 W or less. Wattage is a poor way to build.
I guarantee I can build something with less than 175 W TOTAL that sounds better than some of the typical systems I see being built, I know because I've done it. My SVTF had a 1996 Soundstream Picasso & a Class A 10.0. That's 25x4 for mid and mid low and 200x1 (bridged). Wattage is a poor way to build.
Matching speakers to an amplifier using W RMS doesn't take into account quality either. If a big box store has Kenwood or Alpine junk with a an advertised rating of 175 W RMS and Focal advertises a Utopia driver at 150 are you really going to choose the Best Buy speakers over a world class driver? Wattage is a poor way to build.

What you need to do is go out and listen to as many systems as you can. Use DIYMA and network. People love to show off what they have, good or not, you shouldn't have an issue listening to a wide selection of brands and price points.
I would strongly discourage your idea to run 6.5 coax drivers and then keeping factory miss and tweeters. It's a bad idea on multiple levels. Your staging and imaging will suffer, you over complicate the system itself and youre screwing around with what become mismatched drivers. More speakers doesn't equal better sound.
Again, I refer to my SVTF it has 5 speakers total. No tweeters, a single sealed Subwoofer, a HU with DSP and two amplifiers. That's it. I've shown it several times and people who have heard it are shocked that I don't have more in it.
My experience as a test engineer, an installer, an enthusiast has lead me to pursue this stuff since 1996. I'm not rich but I've easily spent enough money in 21 years that I could have bought a GT350 by now if I hadn't wasted it. My advice isn't spend thousands it's to be efficient and calculating when building. I have always had to do more with less. Have patience, have a plan and most important trust your ears AFTER you listen to everything you possibly can.
Yeah I hear you man thanks for the reply.
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GTP

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You are waaaay too concerned with wattage man. Scott Buwalda's Lexus had 6 JL Audio HD750/1 amplifiers and each amplifier powered one speaker. That's 750 rated watts into voice coils rated to handle 150 W or less. Wattage is a poor way to build.
I guarantee I can build something with less than 175 W TOTAL that sounds better than some of the typical systems I see being built, I know because I've done it. My SVTF had a 1996 Soundstream Picasso & a Class A 10.0. That's 25x4 for mid and mid low and 200x1 (bridged). Wattage is a poor way to build.
Matching speakers to an amplifier using W RMS doesn't take into account quality either. If a big box store has Kenwood or Alpine junk with a an advertised rating of 175 W RMS and Focal advertises a Utopia driver at 150 are you really going to choose the Best Buy speakers over a world class driver? Wattage is a poor way to build.

What you need to do is go out and listen to as many systems as you can. Use DIYMA and network. People love to show off what they have, good or not, you shouldn't have an issue listening to a wide selection of brands and price points.
I would strongly discourage your idea to run 6.5 coax drivers and then keeping factory miss and tweeters. It's a bad idea on multiple levels. Your staging and imaging will suffer, you over complicate the system itself and youre screwing around with what become mismatched drivers. More speakers doesn't equal better sound.
Again, I refer to my SVTF it has 5 speakers total. No tweeters, a single sealed Subwoofer, a HU with DSP and two amplifiers. That's it. I've shown it several times and people who have heard it are shocked that I don't have more in it.
My experience as a test engineer, an installer, an enthusiast has lead me to pursue this stuff since 1996. I'm not rich but I've easily spent enough money in 21 years that I could have bought a GT350 by now if I hadn't wasted it. My advice isn't spend thousands it's to be efficient and calculating when building. I have always had to do more with less. Have patience, have a plan and most important trust your ears AFTER you listen to everything you possibly can.
^This. Every word. x100
Preach it, brother!

Wattage: Most midbass drivers can't handle more than 6-8 volts drive. Do the math: that is only 20 Watts rms for a 4ohm driver. Sending more voltage will either overdrive the woofer's suspension, or heat up the voice coil in the upper bass octave.

Yes, go read the DIY site, instead of this one. If you absolutely MUST replace your drivers, measure the speaker holes, and then ask those guys what will fit.

But I agree with [MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION]. You are better served working with the factory stuff (amps, wire, even drivers), and then improving its weak points. You will even learn enough and save enough to make a much better second attempt.

My plan is to 1) deprogram the rear shelf EQ, 2) replace the rear shelf speakers with 7" midbass woofers (done) and then send them a 1st-order low-pass filtered signal for only bass augment, and 3) disconnect the center dash speaker.

My "2nd attempt" would then consider adding a miniDSP product to give me better control over crossovers and specific driver EQ (cone breakup, for example). But I may not even try a second round.
 

Rob00GT

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Question regarding the original post describing the makeup of the speakers: Is there a difference in speakers for convertible models? I'm specifically thinking about the "rear deck" speakers on coupes as shown, the rear speakers on ragtops are relocated to the rear passenger compartment.

(Mine is equipped with 12-speaker Shaker Pro audio.)
 

floydbanks28

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About to do a 6 3/4'' jl C2650 component set, I'm gonna pull my signals post amp with the AudioControl LQ1. It sums all the channels, gets rid of the factory eq (makes the signal flat) and has an 11 band equalizer. Also has an acubass system, restores bass cut off by the factory signal when the volume goes up. I'm dynamatting the doors too. (possibly trunk later).

I'm leaving the center channel, the rear coaxs, and 3'' in the doors as is on the factory amp for now, But I am disconnecting the sub in the trunk and leaving it in its spot.

Will possibly disconnect the factory stuff or add in more aftermarket later. My Lq1 puts out 6 channels so I have the option to add in more amps and speakers later if I want.

I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 

Synyster06Gates

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So for someone that's relatively new to all of this - I'm looking to add a sub. That's it. I've got the premium 9 speaker setup and will be adding one (maybe two) 10 in the trunk. According to the harness, I would need to somehow splice an RCAs into the violet/white (RR+) and blue (RR-)wires in the black connector going into the amp - correct? If so - what's the easiest way to do that being that the RCAs are much much larger than the wire I am splicing them into.
 

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HextallS550

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I'm gonna pull my signals post amp with the AudioControl LQ1. It sums all the channels, gets rid of the factory eq (makes the signal flat) and has an 11 band equalizer. Also has an acubass system, restores bass cut off by the factory signal when the volume goes up. I'm dynamatting the doors too. (possibly trunk later).

I'm leaving the center channel, the rear coaxs, and 3'' in the doors as is on the factory amp for now, But I am disconnecting the sub in the trunk and leaving it in its spot.

Will possibly disconnect the factory stuff or add in more aftermarket later. My Lq1 puts out 6 channels so I have the option to add in more amps and speakers later if I want.

I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I try but I guess you can't help everyone.
 

Fenix

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So for someone that's relatively new to all of this - I'm looking to add a sub. That's it. I've got the premium 9 speaker setup and will be adding one (maybe two) 10 in the trunk. According to the harness, I would need to somehow splice an RCAs into the violet/white (RR+) and blue (RR-)wires in the black connector going into the amp - correct? If so - what's the easiest way to do that being that the RCAs are much much larger than the wire I am splicing them into.
You could make a harness to do what you are after. I have the connectors you need listed in post #2. Check out my thread:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81507
 

GTP

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I try but I guess you can't help everyone.
I know. When what we suggest sounds contrary to 90% of the BS that is floating around the net, it is hard to get anyone to listen to and absorb what we are saying.

He is leaving the 3 speakers that I hate the most, and replacing the ones that are decent. Then he is tapping the signal that is HPF and thinks that a feature-rich AudioControl product will somehow restore everything. He still won't get any low bass after he is done.
 

Synyster06Gates

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Fenix

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Hmmm - interesting. so basically you just made a wire extension using factory connectors and cut into those instead of the factory wiring?

Seems simple enough, I just don't want to fuck it up haha.
Yea that's all it is. The factory harness under the dash wasn't long enough for me to move around much to get in there and solder in new wires. I also didn't want to cut the factory harness if it could be avoided.

One nice thing about making the harness is if anything gets messed up just take it out and fix the pins or whatever is wrong. No cutting into the factory wiring and sweating some strange issues down the road.
 

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HextallS550

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I know. When what we suggest sounds contrary to 90% of the BS that is floating around the net, it is hard to get anyone to listen to and absorb what we are saying.

He is leaving the 3 speakers that I hate the most, and replacing the ones that are decent. Then he is tapping the signal that is HPF and thinks that a feature-rich AudioControl product will somehow restore everything. He still won't get any low bass after he is done.
The real problem with that plan is the processing of signals that have already been processed. He's trying to save money by spending it. That never works.
Ford's universal use of the ACM is a blessing in disguise and people are resistant to accept the fact it costs money to do stereo.
 

HextallS550

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Hmmm - interesting. so basically you just made a wire extension using factory connectors and cut into those instead of the factory wiring?

Seems simple enough, I just don't want to fuck it up haha.
Thats the Molex connector that I was telling you about.
 

chipmaker

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The real problem with that plan is the processing of signals that have already been processed. He's trying to save money by spending it. That never works.
Ford's universal use of the ACM is a blessing in disguise and people are resistant to accept the fact it costs money to do stereo.

So I know about the post amp processing and why u should grab the signal from between the radio and amp. All of which look like a pain in the ass to me, but I get the whys. There are also people who have added subs successfully by getting signal from rears. So for just subs, is getting signal from rears ok? Some have said they used a LC2iB, some a LOC. I'm not trying to be cheap, I'm just lazy, its 110F in the garage. And what happened to the guy that built the molex/RCA harness?
I want to go rears > LC2iB > SoundQubed 1200.2 > Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10". :shrug:
 

HextallS550

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I build the harness that adapts the ACM, but not the DSP/Amp. Molex doesn't sell a female connector that accepts terminals. You have to use a header connector that involves soldering of each individual wire to the individual pins. The problem with selling that is the reliability of the pins and connector once they have had heat applied to them. It CAN be done but I'm not willing to sell it.
I won't personally use an LOC because I won't compromise if I'm going to spend money on gear. So I'm the wrong one to ask about sub only.
 

chipmaker

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I build the harness that adapts the ACM, but not the DSP/Amp. Molex doesn't sell a female connector that accepts terminals. You have to use a header connector that involves soldering of each individual wire to the individual pins. The problem with selling that is the reliability of the pins and connector once they have had heat applied to them. It CAN be done but I'm not willing to sell it.
I won't personally use an LOC because I won't compromise if I'm going to spend money on gear. So I'm the wrong one to ask about sub only.
I get that, I tried to use a Epicenter in a Jeep to magically make bass out of a Infinity system. it sucked.

But when people say they do something they are happy with, I will listen.

Is there a vid showing molex cable install behind driver kickpanel? How tight is it down there?
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