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Wheel hop solutions: BMR v Steeda

Which option would you choose for decreasing/minimizing/eliminating wheel hop

  • Steeda

    Votes: 117 35.0%
  • BMR

    Votes: 171 51.2%
  • Do nothing and sell my car

    Votes: 14 4.2%
  • A combination of different parts or a third party company

    Votes: 39 11.7%

  • Total voters
    334

pb29590

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I have a 16 GT PP that has horrible wheel hop in both first and second gear on the Pirelli 275/40/19's. (About to put MPSS on rear). I have done hours of reading on this site and there is a ton of info. I go through cars very quickly and my deciding factor is whether I can minimize wheel hop without significant changes in NVH at a reasonable cost.

Steeda's Stop The Hop kit is $900. Yesterday, BMR recommended the Cradle bushing lockout kit @ $200, LCA bearing kit @ $269, and spherical LCA links @ $269.

This is my DD and will never be tracked. FWIW, I put LCA's on my S197 and the NVH sucked. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. I know this subject has been covered ad nauseam- but I want to make an informed decision.
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Rebellion

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I have a 16 GT PP that has horrible wheel hop in both first and second gear on the Pirelli 275/40/19's. (About to put MPSS on rear). I have done hours of reading on this site and there is a ton of info. I go through cars very quickly and my deciding factor is whether I can minimize wheel hop without significant changes in NVH at a reasonable cost.

Steeda's Stop The Hop kit is $900. Kelly from BMR recommended Cradle bushing lockout kit @ $200, LCA bearing kit @ $269, and spherical LCA links @ $269.

This is my DD and will never be tracked. FWIW, I put LCA's on my S197 and the NVH sucked. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Don't do the link and LCA, the Steeda kit has tons of stuff, hence the price.

Do the cradle lockout first. For wheel hop, this is the biggest bang for the buck and gets rid of the biggest "chunk" of wheel hop.
 

WhiteyDog

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I have several Steeda suspension items, stop the hop, sway bars, etc. I haven't noticed any NVH, and everything works as it should. The car handles terrific. BMR makes good stuff too, so I highly doubt you'd be disappointed either way. Both companies are very active on this site and willing to help if there are issues.
 

jbailer

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The wheel hop on the S550 is definitely manageable. Not only that, as you lock down the sloppy rear, I think you'll like the ride much better in general, not just when the tires are spinning. I went with the Steeda solution because I wanted more than just to control wheel hop and I liked having the parts engineered to work well together. No noticeable additional NVH and loving the improved ride.
 

BMR Tech

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Polls are always good to see! Thanks OP! I can only hope we can atleast stay on the chart on this one. Little ole BMR, I would not expect us to compare in a poll such as this.

Kelly from BMR recommended Cradle bushing lockout kit @ $200, LCA bearing kit @ $269, and spherical LCA links @ $269.

This is my DD and will never be tracked. FWIW, I put LCA's on my S197 and the NVH sucked. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. I know this subject has been covered ad nauseam- but I want to make an informed decision.
These mods in bold that I suggested do a great job.

The issue I have with packages out there is that parts are thrown in for convenience to the consumer, and for the seller to make more money. While this is a solid approach, it's just not my style. For example, I believe most people do not need toe rods or centering sleeves etc.

I like to treat customers more like a boutique would - where they tell me what they are aiming for, and I help them get there. MOST of the time I start slow, as I like to get results without the end user over spending.

I usually tell people to start with the CB005 and one other supporting mod. The BEST two mods to start are the CB005 and the BK055, but I realize not everyone will just hop right on the LCA Bearing train as it can be expensive and is tedious work.

For those who want a quick easy install, I like the following in order.

CB005 Cradle Lockout
TCA045 Vert Links
M-5A460-M Ford Toe Bearings
...and BK051 Diff Inserts if NVH is not a concern.

:cheers:
 

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Performance nut

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I got the Stop the Hop kit. It really changed the car. I haven't used the BMR cradle lockout but I am looking to do the LCA bearings next when I change out springs.
 

Angry50

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I usually tell people to start with the CB005 and one other supporting mod. The BEST two mods to start are the CB005 and the BK055, but I realize not everyone will just hop right on the LCA Bearing train as it can be expensive and is tedious work.

For those who want a quick easy install, I like the following in order.

CB005 Cradle Lockout
TCA045 Vert Links
M-5A460-M Ford Toe Bearings
...and BK051 Diff Inserts if NVH is not a concern.

:cheers:
M-5A460-M Ford Toe Bearings is an easier version of the BK055?
if so what main differences is there in install?
 

JuRuKi

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CB005!
 

BMR Tech

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M-5A460-M Ford Toe Bearings is an easier version of the BK055?
if so what main differences is there in install?
It is not a version, it is a completely different part.

It is easier, yes.

Basically, the idea is to remove as much erratic knuckle movement and geometry change as possible within the rear IRS and suspension system.
 

terryz

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Is the M-5A460-M Ford Toe Bearings standard on all GT? I have the non-pp GT.
 

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BMR Tech

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They are not standard on any S550.

You have to purchase them and install.
 

Angry50

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and these IRS centering sleeves i see, what is it theyre supposed to do that just for example the cb005 wouldnt do?
 

diablomatt

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BMR hands down. not only the best product but customer support is amazing. bmr is ALL i use on every car i have. only when they do not make a part do i go elsewhere. CS is my main concern above all. i need to know someone will stand behind thei stuff and they do
 

SteedaTech

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At Steeda's test track in GA, we found the following to be the most effective first steps in controlling axle hop!

They are so effective we patented the components!

To get started the best bang for the buck is the patented Steeda IRS Subframe alignment and support kit for only 149.95 :

The next step would be the patented Steeda IRS subframe support braces 239.95:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-subframe-alignment-and-support-kit.html

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html
IRS SUBFRAME KIT.jpg
steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754-0.jpg
 

wildcatgoal

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First of all, before I did anything to my car, I noticed that if I went to the drag strip with Nitto Invo tires, I had ZERO wheel hop. Not a fan of that tire on the road, but... no wheel hop. Slap on Pirelli PZeros or Conti DW tires... hoppy hop hop hop.

IMHO, and I'm going to be a little different here maybe (but I'm not going to read the previous posts), step one (again... IN MY OPINION) should be an LCA bearing from Steeda (or, if you want, BMR or Cortex - they're all going to do effectively the same thing for you). I have Steeda's, which is a thing of beauty, and I wish I started with it vs. "ended" with it, even given it being one of the most involved and hardest modifications to do to the IRS (also pretty expensive when you value time/labor if you are not doing it yourself). Steeda rear shock mounts are arguably a necessary accompaniment to either of these LCA bearings (to stop induced bounciness). I suggest this even if you want to go with the BMR CB005 over what my preference is for the more typically suggested wheel hop solutions, which I note below.

Subsequently, my preference would be the combo of the Steeda's IRS alignment pins + IRS bushing supports as an accompanying step to achieve wheel hop reduction. Optionally, I'd add in the Steeda IRS subframe brace, but if you have a budget issue, you can skip it until you want to move to the next level, so to speak. I would not add in the Steeda toe links or anything else from any company unless you start finding yourself on the regular drag racing, adding significant power, dumping the suspension with air or coilovers, aggressive/advanced road coursing... those sorts of "atypical, extreme" type of activities.

Anyway, let's all be honest, you will not eliminate wheel hop 100% with the Steeda or BMR solutions. I'm not entirely confident that you even can -- not an absolute 100% - especially when you put some street tires on a prepped surface (drag strip) or with abrupt/harsh launch techniques in the MT cars. But both will prevent that ridiculously easy to induce wheel hop many get seemingly just because they hit the gas harder than an old grandma on her way to church and, it's clear that these solutions will significantly jack up your possible types of launches (i.e., from higher RPMS, with less clutch slippage, etc.) without getting hop.

The alignment pins effectively center the IRS and also prevent defection allowable because of the massive bolt holes at the four mounting points (big blue bolts) and the soft bushings they fill the void of. The Steeda IRS bushing supports fill more open space at the rear mounts than those included with the CB005 kit.

The CB005 will help center the IRS mostly, but from only two points vs. four and the centering effect, by consequence of its design, will not be as direct/as positive (i.e., easily repeatable) as the Steeda inserts can provide. So, if you choose the CB005, I'd encourage you to include the Steeda inserts made for those because they ensure (1) that the IRS is completely centered, thanks to the inserts wrapping around the IRS mounting bolts and filling the void inside the IRS mount bushing (which eliminates the play that allows the IRS to be mounted off center) and, because the IRS is then centered, (2) it will be much easier to install/re-install the CB005, which makes it difficult sometimes to get the accompanying IRS mounting bolts back in straight (you lose line of site of the bolt hole when installing the CB005 and its not a part that "holds itself in place" easily until tightened down - in a way it's kind of like dealing with universal ball joint press parts without the convenience of three hands, especially on jack stands laying on your back). That isn't to say it's a bad part because it can be awkward to install - lots of great stuff is 10x more a PITA to install - I'm just saying, from experience, if you do not have those IRS bolts lined up perfectly, they will cut their own new threads and the CB005 doesn't make it any easier to line the bolt up on its own, especially if your IRS was all kattywompus from the factory or you were forced to unbolt the entire IRS to install them (which I've had to do).
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