Review: Shaftmasters Direct Bolt-in Aluminum Driveshaft P/N FMS1517GTM35D

lugz · Apr 28, 2017

keltymd said:
Did you try to clock it?

No, I didn't. The shaft should be zero-balanced, so in theory clocking shouldn't make any dang difference. Guess it's a reasonable thing to try... but damn what a hassle. I could probably clock it without dropping the exhaust... maybe. The most tedious part is locking and unlocking the parking brake to hold everything still. Too scared to bend something by wedging a pry bar someplace to hold it still while tightening bolts.

BDMACH1 · Apr 28, 2017

lugz said:
Installed a brand new shaftmasters DS last weekend - it's a work of art for sure. Welds and workmanship are awesome. The updated shaft does include all hardware, a tube of loctite and instructions, including torque specs. Although they include a 3/8 10mm 12-pt socket, I don't know how you could use it - there's just not enough room on those bolts, so we ended up using a small 10mm box end wrench.

Stock driveshaft was 34lbs, shaftmasters weighed in at a svelte 19lb. Unfortunately the shaft does have a vibration (not severe but noticable) between 50 and 62 or so, which then mostly gets better until about 95 or so. Will be sending it back. The stock driveshaft was/is glass smooth. :frusty:

BTW, here's side by side with the stocker (500 miles and no rain makes the stock unit look kinda nice, eh?) Favorite part about the stock shaft is the sticker that says to throw it away if it's dropped.

Did you try re-clocking the driveshaft to see if the vibration went away?!?

lugz · Apr 28, 2017

BDMACH1 said:
Did you try re-clocking the driveshaft to see if the vibration went away?!?

no, see above.

BDMACH1 · Apr 28, 2017

lugz said:
no, see above.

Crap Lugz, I missed that! Sorry buddy..

lugz · Apr 28, 2017

BDMACH1 said:
Crap Lugz, I missed that! Sorry buddy..

All good! :ford:

09jsw · Apr 28, 2017

lugz said:
No, I didn't. The shaft should be zero-balanced, so in theory clocking shouldn't make any dang difference. Guess it's a reasonable thing to try... but damn what a hassle. I could probably clock it without dropping the exhaust... maybe. The most tedious part is locking and unlocking the parking brake to hold everything still. Too scared to bend something by wedging a pry bar someplace to hold it still while tightening bolts.

Definitely worth trying. Almost all of my vibs went away when I did mine. Also try shimming the trans cross member down some. It seems the issues aren't the ds but the car. The ds pinion angle is said to be terrible on our cars.

I was able to clock mine with the exhaust on. The worst part is making sure the flange is clean before going back together and yes the parking brake. The 3rd time I did mine I had the wife just hold the brakes. Also only clock the REAR not the front

lugz · Apr 28, 2017

09jsw said:
The 3rd time I did mine I had the wife just hold the brakes.

Great idea. My wife *loves* helping me bleed brakes. LOL. Seriously though, she's cool about it. :love:

Mustang6g - bringing marriages closer together, one project at a time.

bandit67 · Apr 28, 2017

lugz said:
Great idea. My wife *loves* helping me bleed brakes. LOL. Seriously though, she's cool about it. :love:

One word: Speedbleeders

Wife will love you even more.

keltymd · Apr 28, 2017

Yeah the shaft is 0 balanced but all the other driveline components may not be so good that is they they mark the shaft/flange for alignment. Mine is 3 holes from aligning the mark (180) and is smooth. I had a friends I did his was smoothest 2 holes ccw

lugz · Apr 28, 2017

keltymd said:
Yeah the shaft is 0 balanced but all the other driveline components may not be so good that is they they mark the shaft/flange for alignment. Mine is 3 holes from aligning the mark (180) and is smooth. I had a friends I did his was smoothest 2 holes ccw

Can you elaborate on this? My stock DS and pinion are both marked with a yellow spot for alignment, but there's no marks on the new DS.

keltymd · Apr 28, 2017

Look closely at your driveshaft. Either on the flange or the shaft near the flangenthere is a white mark that aligns with the yellow mark on the flange of the differential.

lugz · Apr 28, 2017

keltymd said:
Look closely at your driveshaft. Either on the flange or the shaft near the flangenthere is a white mark that aligns with the yellow mark on the flange of the differential.

Pretty sure there's no marks on the shaftmasters DS, but maybe I wasn't paying close enough attention. Don't see any in the pics I have of it. Will take a peek when I'm back under the car tomorrow.

The shaftmasters instructions don't reference any marks or say anything about how it should be clocked to the pinion, or reclocking for that matter.

Went ahead and ordered a dynotech... got an event coming up and don't have time to f*ck around with this.

keltymd · Apr 28, 2017

Clocking is standard even for th dynotech shaft all of them may need to be clocked.

Gee · May 1, 2017

Quick note on my experience. Originally bought Shaftmasters, had vibration 45-65, clocked to all possible positions, followed all cleaning and torque guidelines, couldn't get it to go away.

Returned it, bought a Dynotech, first shot in and was flawless. Also, it was easier to install (no trans adapter plate, easier to get to bolts and torque).

Link to short writeup I did on the Dynotech: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62716&highlight=dynotech

wildcatgoal · May 1, 2017

I've heard from two major parts companies (that don't make driveshafts, but use them) that these cars really need a CV joint at the differential.

Review: Shaftmasters Direct Bolt-in Aluminum Driveshaft P/N FMS1517GTM35D

lugz

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