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derieuz

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A few days ago I installed the wombo-combo of heel-toe products on my mustang. I paired the GarageLine accelerator pedal spacer with the Steeda heel-toe pedal.

GarageLine spacer found here: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39460

Steeda Heel-Toe pedal found here: http://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-billet-heel-toe-gas-pedal-2015-555-1273/

Review:
Install was very simple, there is a electrical connector with a red push-up clip that is connected to the accelerator pedal. After that, it is basically removing bolts and the pedal comes off.

THIS THING IS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT. This is probably the best interior mod I have done so far. You can now move your seat back an inch or two and prevent your knee from binding up. I am an average height 5'9 guy, but I had to put the seat forward to account for the stupid-far-back OEM drivers pedal. Putting my left foot on the dead pedal would cause my knee to bind up in an uncomfortable position and also my knee would hit the steering column when putting the clutch in. THIS HAPPENS NO MORE, since you can move the seat back and the pedals are all properly spaced, your knee is in a much more natural position. Onto the good stuff, Heel-toeing... Very easy to do, I am not a professional driver whatsoever, heel-toeing was a 50/50 thing for me with the stock pedal configuration, I found it hard to roll my ankle enough to get the RPM's where I wanted to when brake-downshifting. Now it is super easy to do and takes no effort whatsoever. People with super super wide shoes may not like this mod, because the drivers pedal is a bit closer to the brake pedal, my suggestion to wide-footed people is to align the pedal more towards the right when installing it so you can be more comfortable. I wear a size 11 shoe and occasionally have unintentionally hit the accelerator pedal when braking (havent done that in awhile because i am used to it now and i don't lazy brake anymore). So if you are worried about hitting the accelerator pedal when you dont want to, move the pedal over 1/4 inch or so when marking the center holes for install. :headbang:

All in all, this is a very good drivers-mod. I don't think anyone will be disappointed with this combo. Great job GarageLine on the spacer and great job Steeda on the cool-looking pedal.

Install (Both Spacer and Pedal)

  • Step 1: Remove the accelerator pedal electrical connector, Push the clip up (away from the pedal side) and then remove the connector.
  • Step 2: Remove the 3 10mm nuts that are holding the accelerator pedal in place, the pedal will now come out. (Skip to step 8 if you do not have the steeda pedal).
  • Step 3: Remove the T25 torx bolt from the backside of the pedal, the OEM pedal will now come off.
  • Step 4: Align the Heel-Toe pedal on the OEM pedal, mark the center of 3 or 4 holes on the steeda pedal, I only used 3 because I did not see the 4th self-tapping screw in the bag.
  • Step 5: Take a 3/16 or 1/8 Drillbit and drill through the OEM pedal. This is scary for some people (I have no clue why), but very easy to do so do not worry!
  • Step 6: Place the steeda pedal back on, secure it down using the 3 or 4 self-tapping screws provided. This is very easy to do with an electric drill, so I would use that.
  • Step 7 (optional): Take grip tape and cut out the profile of the steeda pedal, stick it on. Make some fancy pattern with it, whatever you would like to do if you feel like the aluminum is not grippy enough.
  • Step 8: You are done assembling the pedal, place the GarageLine spacer onto the backside of the accelerator pedal assembly.
  • Step 9: Place the pedal assembly back onto the car, secure it down using the 3 10mm nuts that you removed earlier.
  • Step 10: Reconnect the electrical connector and you are done.





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TaraFirma

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It's sad that this car is not set up for this from the factory.
Nissan had it figured out in the early 90's
 

brandonsmash

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It's sad that this car is not set up for this from the factory.
Nissan had it figured out in the early 90's
DOT regulations require pedals to be spaced differently now to avoid "unintended acceleration." I believe this isn't an oversight from Ford, but rather adherence to regulation.

That said, I installed the Steeda pedal and found it to be perfect. I didn't add any spacers, and I'm quite happy with that decision; I feel like adding spacers would raise the gas pedal too high and make it uncomfortable during brake transitions, but the extra width of the Steeda pedal makes side-foot rev-matching pretty damn good. I don't feel like there's quite enough space in the pedal box for me to swing my gigantic brogans around, but side-foot rev-matching is quite comfortable.
 

BmacIL

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It's sad that this car is not set up for this from the factory.
Nissan had it figured out in the early 90's
It's setup so that when you're on a race track, and are braking hard, the placement of the pedals is right. It's a bit more challenging on the street, but if you do the accelerator pedal spacer and take the car to the track, you'll have a very difficult time heel-toeing.
 

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Ayabe

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DOT regulations require pedals to be spaced differently now to avoid "unintended acceleration." I believe this isn't an oversight from Ford, but rather adherence to regulation.
No, it's not. There are plenty of new manuals with proper pedals.

Honda Accord, any BMW for example.
 

Horse

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I have no issue HT'ing with the stock GT PP Pedals. /shrug
Do you H/T only while braking hard (e.g., on track), or you also H/T while you are not braking very hard (e.g., street driving)?

I can do 4-3 downshift with heel-toe just fine with stock pedal setup (V6). But I have to stretch my right ankle (and even the knee) very hard to h/t with 3-2 downshift.
 

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Budwise

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Do you H/T only while braking hard (e.g., on track), or you also H/T while you are not braking very hard (e.g., street driving)?

I can do 4-3 downshift with heel-toe just fine with stock pedal setup (V6). But I have to stretch my right ankle (and even the knee) very hard to h/t with 3-2 downshift.
Both. I think the GT PP Pedals are a little different than a V6 though.
 

Horse

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Both. I think the GT PP Pedals are a little different than a V6 though.
Thanks. If anything, it seems that GT PP only makes it harder to H/T than V6, at least I have been told so.

Time for me to practice and quit complaining I guess.
 

Horse

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............

[*] Step 1: Remove the accelerator pedal electrical connector, Push the clip up (away from the pedal side) and then remove the connector.
............
Thought I should try this. But I could not get the clip up easily and I was afraid to break it, so I chickened out. I think I found the clip (red in color) without problem, but it was very tight in there.

Did you have to use some force to get the clip off?

Update: Just tried again. Actually very easy to push the clip up. Although I did not disconnect the connector (b/c of limited space, as the pedal was still bolted on), I could see where it was about to come apart. With some force, it should come apart once the pedal is unbolted and there is more space to apply force.
 
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ForTehNguyen

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the GT PP brakes are much more sensitive so you cant push the brake down as far to reach the gas pedal to side heel toe. When I press the brake pedal all the way down there the gas pedal is still 1/2" or so too far away.

In my friends 996 Porsche 911 Turbo the gas pedal is perfectly flush with the brake pedal during braking, very well thought out.
 

Schu

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There is truth to this^... but you can use the side of your foot and roll it off the brake to the gas. It would be nice if we could adjust the brake pedal throw distance.
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