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S550 Issues

Eclipsar

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Strange that no road tests seem to notice a problem & I did not notice a problem on the car I test drove. Is this a poor RHD conversion issue?
Don't think they have changed it for right hand drive that's why it does not move far enough
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SteveS

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Strange that no road tests seem to notice a problem & I did not notice a problem on the car I test drove. Is this a poor RHD conversion issue?
I believe it is to do with RHD. I'm 5'11 and it is fine for me, but only just.
 

Dragon1972

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Clunky autobox, especially selecting reverse. Sync 2 screen freezes periodically, restarting the car usually fixes it, drivers door window doesn't sit flush which is a little strange as it always used to. Air con / heating is a bit hit and miss in terms of the temperature and airflow. As none of them are too serious I've decided to wait until the first service in September to get them hopefully fixed.

Still absolutely love the car though!
 

Manders Mustang

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Ah i got another one

Passenger door (Multiple models and age ranges) doesn't drop fast enough therefor catches on the trim when opening causing the window to shake,
 

avocet

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So far at 17000 miles,Climate control is crap.
Had issue with BDA then wiring loom.
A con is working but as soon as you switch off you feel an uncomfortable sticky heat within the cabin so most of the time I use auto with air con with slow fan.This normally keeps the windows clear.I still don't think it works right and when heat is on it gives out a faint smell.
Recognised problem air con failures will show up heat blowing on one side with a.c. full
On.That will be evaporator core failures and a dash out job.Fully expect my one to fail nxt
Noisey gearbox (throw out bearing I believe) in 1st and 2nd and very notchy in those gears until warmed up.
Creaking handbrake (adjusted at dealership)
Puddle light(3times now and still an issue I believe)
I always check my oil cooler for leaks,that's the latest big fail!
 

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Monty

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Creaking handbrake (adjusted at dealership)
What did they do? I'd just assumed the handbrake wasn't good enough to actually hold the car on anything more than the slightest of inclines. Didn't know it could be remedied.
 

avocet

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If I got in my car with the handbrake on and rocked the car you could hear a creaking noise but it went with the handbrake off.Same on an incline when you released the handbrake.Sounded like an old boat.
They adjusted the travel and lubricated it I believe.
 

Monty

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If I got in my car with the handbrake on and rocked the car you could hear a creaking noise but it went with the handbrake off.Same on an incline when you released the handbrake.Sounded like an old boat.
They adjusted the travel and lubricated it I believe.
Thanks, exactly the same experience ,"old boat" is the perfect description. Will have mine looked at the next time it goes in for warranty work.
 

inectarios

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[MENTION=20439]Jimboy2[/MENTION] I've chased this exact issue with 3 different Ford dealerships. 2 Bristol Street ones and 1 Trust Ford. The latter ended up *kind of* sorting it out after 3 visits but then did my own DIY fixes on top of that to get it to where I believe it's an acceptable wind noise level.

In a nutshell:

(1) The driver's door upper weatherstrip is defective from factory on some earlier builds. This cost about ~£125 retail but was replaced for free by Trust Ford as part of a warranty claim. The issue here is that the weatherstrip is lacking enough foam padding near the A-pillar and therefore doesn't seal tightly enough with the triangular "door filler / window shaft" part.

(2) My door filler window shaft was changed as well. The rubbers looked a bit deformed so I bought one from fordpartsuk to change it myself but in the end Trust Ford did it for me for free as a good will gesture. The part cost me a mere £25.

(3) Trust Ford did a number of window up/down alignments on both sides (even though the passenger side was fine). This is because they had another Mustang in the past that needed both sides realigned as that one suffered from the "drop window feature" issue mentioned in other posts. Luckily, mine never had that issue.

(4) After the A-pillar wind noise was suppressed enough, I started noticing wind noise from the B pillar this time. Pressumably Trust Ford's alignments might have thrown something off or missed to test for that. In any case, I got so fed up (by this time I think I have visited Ford dealerships about 8 times for this specific issue) so I bought a Service Manual for £15 off eBay (RRP is over £200 I think) and looked to DIY the window alignment myself. It turns out there's an in/out alignment that you can perform as well which presummably Trust Ford didn't do. Luckily, this is the easiest of window alignments to perform so it wasn't too difficult to achieve in the end.

With me still?

Good.

(5) During my attempts in (4) I managed to rip the inner rubber off the now replaced door filler part I mentioned at (2)! LOL Yeah it turns out I had aligned the window *too tight* this time and it can "cut" the A-side door filler rubber in half while closing since this is merely 2 rubber parts glued together. Anyway. Backed the alignment out a bit and installed another £25 door filler. All good now.

(6) Because of having to loosen the in/out alignment a bit due to (5) above, now I had to find another solution to eliminate the B-pillar window noise further. So I had this neoprene foam strips bought for another purpose. These are about 3mm thickness. 3 layers of these in certain places inside where the weatherstrip goes, seems to have provided enough tightness for the weatherstrip to not be as bouncy and therefore the window can more tightly seal with the weatherstrip which seems to alleviate excessive wind noise being heard from there now.

So as you can see it's not a simple issue to fix and the dealerships' "If this, then do that" mentality doesn't help. There are clearly design flaws here which need time to diagnose and fix properly. The technicians at dealerships are simply not trained to investigate something in depth. I am a computer programmer by trade and problem investigations is what I do for a living. It drives me mad to see people calling themselves "engineers" not knowning what an engineer's job actually is. Anyway, for the record, the issue with (6) above is due to the plastic holder bolted on to the metal B-pillar being too bouncy and therefore needing some reinforcement (i.e. the foam) to alleviate that.

So there you have it.

I am not 100% satisfied with the above but it would do. Also, on one of my early visits at Bristol Street motors their head "engineer" had the fine idea of re-aligning the driver door (instead of the window) and he fucked up my door now which doesn't seem to close as easily as it did before. I tried to re-align this myself but I need specialty tools to reach the 6 up/down alignment bolts for the door (a £150 Bahco set isn't enough!) plus I'd rather have a 2nd person there with me to hold the door while tightening the bolts back in (and in case I drop the door on the floor or something!). I'll look for a proper body shop to do that for me one day. This shouldn't have any dire effecs on the window alignments I've done if careful enough but if there's an impact I'm happy to re-align the window one last time after that.

Anyway. If you need any help sorting this out I might be able to help. Let me know and all the best!
 
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avocet

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The problems with the heater that plagued me a while back has now developed into what I think is the start of the evaporator core issue.On lo with no auto on its blasting out warmer air my side.At present I'm getting A.C. but the drivers vent is cold but definitely not as cold as the others.Also any form of heat feels sticky and humid with a slight smell and fogging my windows up.This I believe is the core problem that has been well documented in the US
 

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Jimboy2

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[MENTION=20439]Jimboy2[/MENTION] I've chased this exact issue with 3 different Ford dealerships. 2 Bristol Street ones and 1 Trust Ford. The latter ended up *kind of* sorting it out after 3 visits but then did my own DIY fixes on top of that to get it to where I believe it's an acceptable wind noise level.

In a nutshell:

(1) The driver's door upper weatherstrip is defective from factory on some earlier builds. This cost about ~£125 retail but was replaced for free by Trust Ford as part of a warranty claim. The issue here is that the weatherstrip is lacking enough foam padding near the A-pillar and therefore doesn't seal tightly enough with the triangular "door filler / window shaft" part.

(2) My door filler window shaft was changed as well. The rubbers looked a bit deformed so I bought one from fordpartsuk to change it myself but in the end Trust Ford did it for me for free as a good will gesture. The part cost me a mere £25.

(3) Trust Ford did a number of window up/down alignments on both sides (even though the passenger side was fine). This is because they had another Mustang in the past that needed both sides realigned as that one suffered from the "drop window feature" issue mentioned in other posts. Luckily, mine never had that issue.

(4) After the A-pillar wind noise was suppressed enough, I started noticing wind noise from the B pillar this time. Pressumably Trust Ford's alignments might have thrown something off or missed to test for that. In any case, I got so fed up (by this time I think I have visited Ford dealerships about 8 times for this specific issue) so I bought a Service Manual for £15 off eBay (RRP is over £200 I think) and looked to DIY the window alignment myself. It turns out there's an in/out alignment that you can perform as well which presummably Trust Ford didn't do. Luckily, this is the easiest of window alignments to perform so it wasn't too difficult to achieve in the end.

With me still?

Good.

(5) During my attempts in (4) I managed to rip the inner rubber off the now replaced door filler part I mentioned at (2)! LOL Yeah it turns out I had aligned the window *too tight* this time and it can "cut" the A-side door filler rubber in half while closing since this is merely 2 rubber parts glued together. Anyway. Backed the alignment out a bit and installed another £25 door filler. All good now.

(6) Because of having to loosen the in/out alignment a bit due to (5) above, now I had to find another solution to eliminate the B-pillar window noise further. So I had this neoprene foam strips bought for another purpose. These are about 3mm thickness. 3 layers of these in certain places inside where the weatherstrip goes, seems to have provided enough tightness for the weatherstrip to not be as bouncy and therefore the window can more tightly seal with the weatherstrip which seems to alleviate excessive wind noise being heard from there now.

So as you can see it's not a simple issue to fix and the dealerships' "If this, then do that" mentality doesn't help. There are clearly design flaws here which need time to diagnose and fix properly. The technicians at dealerships are simply not trained to investigate something in depth. I am a computer programmer by trade and problem investigations is what I do for a living. It drives me mad to see people calling themselves "engineers" not knowning what an engineer's job actually is. Anyway, for the record, the issue with (6) above is due to the plastic holder bolted on to the metal B-pillar being too bouncy and therefore needing some reinforcement (i.e. the foam) to alleviate that.

So there you have it.

I am not 100% satisfied with the above but it would do. Also, on one of my early visits at Bristol Street motors their head "engineer" had the fine idea of re-aligning the driver door (instead of the window) and he fucked up my door now which doesn't seem to close as easily as it did before. I tried to re-align this myself but I need specialty tools to reach the 6 up/down alignment bolts for the door (a £150 Bahco set isn't enough!) plus I'd rather have a 2nd person there with me to hold the door while tightening the bolts back in (and in case I drop the door on the floor or something!). I'll look for a proper body shop to do that for me one day. This shouldn't have any dire effecs on the window alignments I've done if careful enough but if there's an impact I'm happy to re-align the window one last time after that.

Anyway. If you need any help sorting this out I might be able to help. Let me know and all the best!

Wow thanks for the info mate. Lots there to look over. Could you send me a pm or start a post on how to adjust the door in and out? Pretty sure I have the service manual somewhere as [MENTION=15533]slowhand99[/MENTION] got his hands on it.
I was fiddling around with the triangle piece on the outside of the car and it now doesn't sit right. Going in at some point to have my seat cover replaced so will get them to look at this at the same time
 

GR11M

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Had to replace the exhaust and headers, car too quiet

Had to replace the manifold, throttle body and air intake, car too slow

Had to add rear louvers, side covers and bonnet vents, car needed street cred

Had to replace the tyres, the ladies preferred MPSS'
 

Kristian87

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Wow thanks for the info mate. Lots there to look over. Could you send me a pm or start a post on how to adjust the door in and out? Pretty sure I have the service manual somewhere as [MENTION=15533]slowhand99[/MENTION] got his hands on it.
I was fiddling around with the triangle piece on the outside of the car and it now doesn't sit right. Going in at some point to have my seat cover replaced so will get them to look at this at the same time
As far as 1st posts go, that was an absolute belter! Welcome to the forum [MENTION=21750]inectarios[/MENTION] !

I must say, I had a bit of wind noise, driver side, more noticeable than it was in the EB. Not sure if that's because I'm listening for noise though or if it genuinely is louder :lol: may be after this info too at some point...
 

Monty

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paint flaking/wearing off on door mirrors.

with the mirrors folded, the unsightly paint wear shows up. I know at least one other person who has mentioned the same issue.

mirror1.jpg


Passenger side above, driver side below.

mirror2.jpg
 

Adester

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Manual gearbox very clunky/notchy when changing 1st - 2nd. I find that if I make the 1st - 2nd change a little higher up the rev range than I normally would, the change is a little smoother.

Sometimes though, I'm just pottering about in traffic & I can't seem to get a smooth change without feeling a bit of a crunch. She's only done 1100 miles, so maybe these manual boxes loosen-up a bit over time.
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