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How to remove Driveline and Motor and 6060 trans conversion.

doodguy

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Hi there. I'm building my 2015 GT Vert to be a deep 9 second monster that I can also take and autoX with and drop the top cruise the beach with the family.

That said I am not a mechanic. Just a confident wrencher. As I take car apart/put it back together I'll document here so if you need to take something apart maybe my posts will help.

Something I would like to note here: Before you begin this project, go to an AC shop ask them to remove all the refrigerant from your A/C lines. When you're done, get a shop to add new refrigerant/charge your A/C system.

Also try to make it a habit of each part you remove, put the bolts lightly back in place to keep track of the bolts you remove.

That said, lets get started.
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doodguy

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doodguy

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Here is a picture (not the best sorry) of what the rear part of the Steeda Jacking rails fitment looks like with the convertible braces. I also try to show where to place jack/jack stands on rear to remove the convertible braces.
Jakc Stands Rear and jack rails.jpg
 

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doodguy

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With the vert braces out of the way, go ahead and remove the mufflers. I have a Roush muffler setup so yours may look slightly different. I will show the bolts you need to remove to undo the hangers and take the mufflers off.
5 Exhaust Removal.jpg
6 Mufflers Removed.jpg
 
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doodguy

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I have an H pipe, but if you still have the factory resonator on, the connections I show here are the same, you will just have the resonator instead of H pipe.

First, unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the exhaust hangars to the rear cradle. Also unbolt the 2 exhaust clamps at the rear of the H pipe, and the 2 exhaust clamps at the front of the h pipe.

I marked the passenger side of the h pipe with a piece of duct tape because it does matter which side points which direction.

After the exhaust pipes between the h pipe and mufflers were loosened I removed them by lifting up on the hangar, and sliding the pipe out one side of the time noting which side was driver which side was passenger.

With the 2 pipes removed, I removed the H pipe.
7 Pipes leading to mufflers.jpg
8 H pipe removal.jpg
9 H pipe to catalytic converters.jpg
 
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doodguy

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I have a pypes long tube header system, so again your setup may look slightly different.

At this point, I removed the high flow catalytic converters from my headers by unbolting the 2 bolts (per side) for the slip connection, removing the pipes noting which side is the drivers side which is passenger.

With the Catalytic converters removed I also removed the front and rear O2 sensors.
10 Catalytic converters.jpg
11 Rear O2 Sensor.jpg
12 Front O2 Sensor.jpg
13 Front O2 sensor connector.jpg
 
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doodguy

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With the exhaust out of the way you now have plenty of access to the driveshaft.

Your setup should be similar. I have a DSS driveshaft, as well as a BMR Drive Shaft Safety Loop.

I removed all but one bolt from the rear of the driveshaft. I had my wife set the parking brake as I broke the bolts loose. I then had her release the brake so I could turn the driveshaft to access the next bolt.

With all but one bolt released on the rear, I placed a transmission jack under the transmission, and loosened the 4 transmission crossmember bolts. I then lowered the transmission a little and slid the BMR driveshaft safety loop back out of the way.

With the safety loop out of the way I removed the transmission crossmember to have full access to the front of the driveshaft. There are 4 bolts here which I removed one at a time, by having my wife set and unset the parking brake.

After these 4 bolts were removed, I removed the final bolt from the rear of the driveshaft and removed the driveshaft.
14 Drive Shaft Rear.jpg
15 Drive Shaft Front.jpg
16 Transmission Crossmember.jpg
17 Crossmember removed.jpg
 
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doodguy

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With the driveshaft removed, DSS required I install a front and rear adapter plate.

I removed these plates, and here is a picture of what is left with the driveshaft removed.
18 Rear adapter plate.jpg
19 Rear adapterplate removed.jpg
20 Front Adapter removed.jpg
21 DS Removed.jpg
 

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i heard you need a custom length driveshaft? ALSO, why did you decide against a magnum xl?
 
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doodguy

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i heard you need a custom length driveshaft? ALSO, why did you decide against a magnum xl?
Yes, you will need custom length driveshaft, but I'm working on getting one made so this can be a bolt in kit. I was getting quotes on the Magnum XL and that kit was selling for between 5 and 6k with shifter/driveshaft.

This kit should be under 4k when all said and done. I'm working with Ben Calimer on this, so once all is done, I think he will be selling this as a kit.
 

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awesome.. mgw shifter works great with the 6060.. i ran that on my '14 gt500... only downside with the 6060 is the remote mount.. it was a bit sloppy before the MGW went in.. .looking forward to this.. Thanks for doing the write up!!!!!
 
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doodguy

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awesome.. mgw shifter works great with the 6060.. i ran that on my '14 gt500... only downside with the 6060 is the remote mount.. it was a bit sloppy before the MGW went in.. .looking forward to this.. Thanks for doing the write up!!!!!
Welcome! I'll be updating this almost daily. I have most of the motor out with pics, I'll have trans out by this weekend. Just need time to put the pics together label stuff. I hope this post is helpful to someone.

In regards to shifters I have the MGW and Barton. Will be reviewing both. I'm hoping this post will help people if they want to take a certain component apart, but not quite sure how things fit together.

After everything out, I'll be continuing this with the install listing torque specs of everything. Quite a bit of work to do still.
 

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