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Tow Hooks - ZL1 Version

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From my build thread


I also had the chance to install the ZL1 Addons tow hook. The piece is pretty robust after handling it. I thought this would be a relatively easy install, and 3 hours later I had it done. I would not call it difficult, but more time consuming than imagined with all the parts I had to remove. Something I would encourage anyone to tackle on their own, but set aside some time and be patient. The basic instructions left out some critical information, as there are more parts to remove than I thought. I did not have my camera out there to step by step pictures, but here is what I did.

1) Jack up the car using universal safety precautions (Jack stand, wheel chocks, etc)
2) Remove front splitter (must come off to reach front belly pan bolts)
3) Remove belly pan
4) Remove passenger side brake duct by taking out the 3 reusable push pins. One attaching the duct to the front bumper, and two attaching to the fender well liner.
5) At this point you will notice a boxed in area under and around the radiator. On each side there is a rubber like panel attached by four reusable push pins. Remove the 4 push pins from rubber air tunnel and open up this area in front of the radiator. The panel is pliable and simply folds back.
6) Remove the air temp sensor that is located in front of the radiator, and attached to the lower boxed portion via a push pin and locating tab. The sensor is attached to a plastic arm with another push pin and locating tab. I had to use the "reach around" method to get to the sensor. It is a little awkward at first, but simple enough.
7) Remove the air temp sensor from the plastic arm, and reinstall the sensor facing toward the driver side of the car. This will shorten the distance it hangs down into the grill, and allow the tow hook room to align to the grille opening.
8) Remove the two nuts from the bumper support bolts
9) Install the tow hook onto the exposed bolts of the bumper support, then reinstall and LOOSELY tighten the nuts.
10) Use the small amount of play on the bracket to align the tow hook receiver to the shaft, and thread it a few turns. It will fit VERY SNUG into the honeycomb grill opening.
11) With the tow hook and bracket fastened together, tighten down the nuts attaching the bracket to the bumper support
12) Tighten up the tow hook shaft to the receiver to your liking
13) Reinstall the brake duct, belly pan, and front splitter

Here are a couple of finished pictures to show the bracket and how tight of a fit the shaft of the tow hook has. The kit comes with a bit to remove any excess plastic from the honeycomb grill, but I did not need to use it on mine.

DSC_0638_zps41kcwot8.jpg

DSC_0639_zpss2gk2odn.jpg

DSC_0640_zps0moxu680.jpg


The newly installed jacking plates worked like a charm as well. Super easy to get the car up in the air now. Very impressed at how rigid the car is, since jacking up the front pinch weld will still get the rear tire off the ground. All the fox body and sn-95 cars I owned would flex like crazy until I had subframe connectors installed.
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Hmm lol well thats a tip:-D.

You have to remove the bumper for the rear hook right?
You only need to remove the lower valence, but some have just removed the bumper all together
 

B/Stock

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From my build thread


I also had the chance to install the ZL1 Addons tow hook. The piece is pretty robust after handling it. I thought this would be a relatively easy install, and 3 hours later I had it done. I would not call it difficult, but more time consuming than imagined with all the parts I had to remove. Something I would encourage anyone to tackle on their own, but set aside some time and be patient. The basic instructions left out some critical information, as there are more parts to remove than I thought. I did not have my camera out there to step by step pictures, but here is what I did.

1) Jack up the car using universal safety precautions (Jack stand, wheel chocks, etc)
2) Remove front splitter (must come off to reach front belly pan bolts)
3) Remove belly pan
4) Remove passenger side brake duct by taking out the 3 reusable push pins. One attaching the duct to the front bumper, and two attaching to the fender well liner.
5) At this point you will notice a boxed in area under and around the radiator. On each side there is a rubber like panel attached by four reusable push pins. Remove the 4 push pins from rubber air tunnel and open up this area in front of the radiator. The panel is pliable and simply folds back.
6) Remove the air temp sensor that is located in front of the radiator, and attached to the lower boxed portion via a push pin and locating tab. The sensor is attached to a plastic arm with another push pin and locating tab. I had to use the "reach around" method to get to the sensor. It is a little awkward at first, but simple enough.
7) Remove the air temp sensor from the plastic arm, and reinstall the sensor facing toward the driver side of the car. This will shorten the distance it hangs down into the grill, and allow the tow hook room to align to the grille opening.
8) Remove the two nuts from the bumper support bolts
9) Install the tow hook onto the exposed bolts of the bumper support, then reinstall and LOOSELY tighten the nuts.
10) Use the small amount of play on the bracket to align the tow hook receiver to the shaft, and thread it a few turns. It will fit VERY SNUG into the honeycomb grill opening.
11) With the tow hook and bracket fastened together, tighten down the nuts attaching the bracket to the bumper support
12) Tighten up the tow hook shaft to the receiver to your liking
13) Reinstall the brake duct, belly pan, and front splitter

Here are a couple of finished pictures to show the bracket and how tight of a fit the shaft of the tow hook has. The kit comes with a bit to remove any excess plastic from the honeycomb grill, but I did not need to use it on mine.





The newly installed jacking plates worked like a charm as well. Super easy to get the car up in the air now. Very impressed at how rigid the car is, since jacking up the front pinch weld will still get the rear tire off the ground. All the fox body and sn-95 cars I owned would flex like crazy until I had subframe connectors installed.
Thanks for the write-up, I will try to tackle my install this weekend.:cheers:
 

firestarter2

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#5 refers to the flap on passenger side and not on the bottom

#9 you have to install the bracket under the stock bumper reinforcement, you will have to bend it out of the way.

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I had to remove the plastic bracket that held the harness and the bracket that held the wire for the air temp sensor. I think both would of be in the way of the tow hook bracket.
 

honeybadger

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I had to remove the plastic bracket that held the harness and the bracket that held the wire for the air temp sensor. I think both would of be in the way of the tow hook bracket.
I did the same
 

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jpindustrie

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That's why I love this forum! Thanks for the tips guys. Just placed an order for a combo ZL1 tow hook + license plate bracket (craigs custom bracket fell off) so I'll attempt it this weekend...

EDIT: good customer service!
 
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Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
That's funny. My Craig's bracket fell off too. I properly prepped the bumper when installing it and it slowly peeled off as time went by.
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
That's one way to mitigate the issue!
 

O-H-5-0

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#5 refers to the flap on passenger side and not on the bottom

#9 you have to install the bracket under the stock bumper reinforcement, you will have to bend it out of the way.

MISC
I had to remove the plastic bracket that held the harness and the bracket that held the wire for the air temp sensor. I think both would of be in the way of the tow hook bracket.
Stuck on #9 at the moment. The core support keeps getting stuck on the top stud when I try to bend it back. Not quite sure how to get more leverage to move it up and over the stud :shrug:. Did you run into any issues like this?
 

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THX 138

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Stuck on #9 at the moment. The core support keeps getting stuck on the top stud when I try to bend it back. Not quite sure how to get more leverage to move it up and over the stud :shrug:. Did you run into any issues like this?
Tie a rope to the core support and pull it back out of the way, then tie the other end of the rope to the K-member (still under tension). Then slide the tow hook bracket into place under the core support and untie the rope. It helps if you were a Boy Scout...
 

icormba

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Stuck on #9 at the moment. The core support keeps getting stuck on the top stud when I try to bend it back. Not quite sure how to get more leverage to move it up and over the stud :shrug:. Did you run into any issues like this?
Tie a rope to the core support and pull it back out of the way, then tie the other end of the rope to the K-member (still under tension). Then slide the tow hook bracket into place under the core support and untie the rope. It helps if you were a Boy Scout...
I was under the car and had my wife use a hockey stick for leverage, over the top of the engine, to pry the support bar over the studs. It helps if you're a Hockey player. ;)
 

O-H-5-0

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Well, I'm not a Boy Scout nor a hockey player so I'm screwed :headbonk::lol:
 

koopatroopa781

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Can you try to leverage it back with a pry bar? I didn’t have any issues with my installation. I think I was able to leverage it far enough that the I had the support beam on the stud and managed the wedge the bracket between them.
 
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