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TooSoonJunior

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its the hood that killing us... i ran my car for 30 minutes with hood up, no fans, and the iat never got to 110... closed hood and it shot to 145 in 2 minutes...
All roots and twin screw vehicles have the same issue, its not unique to the mustang. All of the various upgrades you can do are to deal with the lack of airflow and build up of engine compartment heat. Idling or driving with the hood off, while offering great heat dissipation, is just not an option for most of us lol
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OrangCrush

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My IAT has gotten up to 160's. what is too high for CHT?
 

TooSoonJunior

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PNR welding tank going in...
Very nice setup, not to sidetrack this thread but couple questions as I am considering purchasing the same tank:

Does the tank sit flush to the floor of the trunk so that the factory spare tire carpeted cover fits? Looks like that is no

Could you just use the Whipple pump, and purchase the tank with no pump, and run lines to the factory Whipple tank/pump? I realize this would leave the flow rate the same as before but I am not certain how much more the new pump actually flows?
 

db252

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How is this better without the fans? I would think my temps would be cooler with the fans since they are always on. While idling at lunch for 30 minutes I am seeing CHT up to 215-220 at 80 degrees outside. I am just not understanding it.
The heat exchanger for the IC has no direct relation to CHT. The intercooler with HE is a completely independent system form the engine cooling system which has a more direct correlation to CHT. The HE is responsible for cooling the fluid via air flow (fans when sitting and air flow from driving) and trying to get its fluid temp down for the intercooler sitting in the well of the motor. The cooler this fluid temp is the more it will cool the intake air flow going through it and into the combustion chamber (cooler air=denser air=more power capability). Going back to the fans in relation to your HE and even the ones that your car came with for your radiator that pull air through, they are useless and actually negatively affect passive airflow through the radiator/heat exchanger when around 15mph and up. Do they help at idle or low speeds.....of course they do; some air flow is better than no air flow. Fans or no fans, yours and mine and everyone else CHT will rise when sitting at idle, heavy traffic, etc.



its the hood that killing us... i ran my car for 30 minutes with hood up, no fans, and the iat never got to 110... closed hood and it shot to 145 in 2 minutes...
I lumped these together because one affects the other. We are now talking about IAT and if your reading the gauge on the dash, it's IAT1 which is before the intercooler. No doubt a parked car with closed box and motor running will have more heat than the top of the box off for radiant heat to escape. What hurts us is that the Whipple air box is not a closed design and therefore allows engine heat and radiator fan wash (more heat) to get to the air filter bringing IAT1 up quickly while sitting. When we start driving it goes down because fresh cooler air is working its way into the compartment helping bring IAT1 down. The better option is to, and several of us have done it, close our air box completely and reintroduce the stock air box snorkel that connects to the radiator support pass through. What we have done here is create a cold air intake. The results are extremely positive. In my case, after driving for 15 minutes and making sure the car was at full temp, I parked in a lot and idled for 15 minutes. It was 75 degrees outside at that time and my IAT1 only went up 10-12 degrees in that time. The benefit of this is, your keeping your IAT1 as low as possible when it's naturally aspirated especially when sitting or hardly moving and this in turn allows the cooled fluid from the HE that is now in the intercooler to further lower that already cooled air from a closed system and having a much more positive affect on IAT2 (after intercooler temps).
 

TooSoonJunior

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Only thing I will add to ^^^ is there is an indirect effect of the HE and your CHT, namely just how much your HE blocks airflow to your radiator, and also realize the "fresh" air that is going to hit your radiator will never be as cool as just straight fresh air not passing through a 100+ degree heat exchanger, so there is some degradation of the cooling system.

Having this new massive heat exchanger sitting in front of the radiator for sure will have some effect to higher coolant temps. Only logging before and after will actually tell you the impact. And should only be significant if your cooling system was already having issues keeping up before installing this new larger heat exchanger
 

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db252

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^^^^^ Very true as well. There are so many factors such as what is in the above post plus, humidity, altitude, ambient temp and the list goes on. Aftermarket grill or grill deletes to the stock grill have influence as well. My grill is open to airflow in all areas based on its design to get more air in for cooling and the downside to that is more lift since the air has to get out as well. My Roush heat extractors are modified as well as the hood opening below them to allow as much airflow out as possible and I'm sure I still need more out. It's an endless battle of heat/cool/air in/air out.

I'm currently in the process of planning for a temp gauge directly inline post the new HE before it goes into the intercooler. I also run a 70/30 distilled water to coolant ratio in both cooling systems as water always has the best heat dissipation ability and we can get away with that ratio in CA all year where I live.
 

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The heat exchanger for the IC has no direct relation to CHT. The intercooler with HE is a completely independent system form the engine cooling system which has a more direct correlation to CHT. The HE is responsible for cooling the fluid via air flow (fans when sitting and air flow from driving) and trying to get its fluid temp down for the intercooler sitting in the well of the motor. The cooler this fluid temp is the more it will cool the intake air flow going through it and into the combustion chamber (cooler air=denser air=more power capability). Going back to the fans in relation to your HE and even the ones that your car came with for your radiator that pull air through, they are useless and actually negatively affect passive airflow through the radiator/heat exchanger when around 15mph and up. Do they help at idle or low speeds.....of course they do; some air flow is better than no air flow. Fans or no fans, yours and mine and everyone else CHT will rise when sitting at idle, heavy traffic, etc.





I lumped these together because one affects the other. We are now talking about IAT and if your reading the gauge on the dash, it's IAT1 which is before the intercooler. No doubt a parked car with closed box and motor running will have more heat than the top of the box off for radiant heat to escape. What hurts us is that the Whipple air box is not a closed design and therefore allows engine heat and radiator fan wash (more heat) to get to the air filter bringing IAT1 up quickly while sitting. When we start driving it goes down because fresh cooler air is working its way into the compartment helping bring IAT1 down. The better option is to, and several of us have done it, close our air box completely and reintroduce the stock air box snorkel that connects to the radiator support pass through. What we have done here is create a cold air intake. The results are extremely positive. In my case, after driving for 15 minutes and making sure the car was at full temp, I parked in a lot and idled for 15 minutes. It was 75 degrees outside at that time and my IAT1 only went up 10-12 degrees in that time. The benefit of this is, your keeping your IAT1 as low as possible when it's naturally aspirated especially when sitting or hardly moving and this in turn allows the cooled fluid from the HE that is now in the intercooler to further lower that already cooled air from a closed system and having a much more positive affect on IAT2 (after intercooler temps).
Only thing I will add to ^^^ is there is an indirect effect of the HE and your CHT, namely just how much your HE blocks airflow to your radiator, and also realize the "fresh" air that is going to hit your radiator will never be as cool as just straight fresh air not passing through a 100+ degree heat exchanger, so there is some degradation of the cooling system.

Having this new massive heat exchanger sitting in front of the radiator for sure will have some effect to higher coolant temps. Only logging before and after will actually tell you the impact. And should only be significant if your cooling system was already having issues keeping up before installing this new larger heat exchanger
^^^^^ Very true as well. There are so many factors such as what is in the above post plus, humidity, altitude, ambient temp and the list goes on. Aftermarket grill or grill deletes to the stock grill have influence as well. My grill is open to airflow in all areas based on its design to get more air in for cooling and the downside to that is more lift since the air has to get out as well. My Roush heat extractors are modified as well as the hood opening below them to allow as much airflow out as possible and I'm sure I still need more out. It's an endless battle of heat/cool/air in/air out.

I'm currently in the process of planning for a temp gauge directly inline post the new HE before it goes into the intercooler. I also run a 70/30 distilled water to coolant ratio in both cooling systems as water always has the best heat dissipation ability and we can get away with that ratio in CA all year where I live.
Excellent information here, and I would like to touch on a couple things. Anytime you put a larger denser thicker heat exchanager in front of your engine coolant radiator you robb direct airflow from the engines radiator. Furthermore the bigger the heat exchanger the more heat comes off it the more moves into the engines radiator directly effecting engine coolant temps and CHT. With that said the guys who have put on the massive Whipple heat exchanger on have not seen additional rise in temps elsewhere so that's a positive find for sure.

The other thin that db252 touched on is the underhood heat effecting DD and idling situations where temps rocket because it's sucking trapped hot air from the backside of the Whipple airbox. This is why I developed my closed air box, and db252 used the Roush heat extractors and modified them to vent much more heat.

My closed airbox design couple with the Velossa tech big mouth draws cool air from the front of the grill.


Roush heat extractors modified with hood opening to allow maximum heat transfer.
 
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its the hood that killing us... i ran my car for 30 minutes with hood up, no fans, and the iat never got to 110... closed hood and it shot to 145 in 2 minutes...
What hood would you recommend?
 

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Unscientific measurements, meaning a bathroom scale and a measuring cup... this thing holds 2.85 liters of water, and weighs about 22 lbs when full. I hope the mounting brackets are up to the task, they look a little wimpy to me at only .075 thick.
 

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[MENTION=16819]Roh92cp[/MENTION]
Links back to your thread and materials to do that.
Did something similar but it isnt holding together.
The adhesive on uours still holding tight?
 

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Bahndvr

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Can I get the dimensions of the box?
Calculating shipping.
 

Ironair

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29x20x13 inches
74x51x33 cm
 

Bahndvr

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29x20x13 inches
74x51x33 cm
Okay you get the :eyebulge: on the 13 inches thick. The intercooler is 4 inches thick so 2 inches of packing on both sides is 8 inches I would calculate.
 

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You can calculate all you want, but I gave you the actual measurements of the box. Whipple likes foam.
 

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I guess so, thanks.
I'll go to the Post Office tomorrow and see if it's too big.
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