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Knock on Drivers Side at Low Speed

vintage1

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Knock on drivers side at low speed.
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Cobra Jet

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If you are certain the noise is from the front:

Sometimes if a balljoint is bad, it will only make a "pop" when cornering or say going up/down driveways at an angle due to load being placed on the part. Usually if driving straight on level surfaces it's not noticeable. The noise will definitely be forward and sound like it's coming from under the car.

Have you checked front sway bar mounts or end links? If a mount or end link is loose, again it will make noise more when cornering or driving up surfaces on an angle due to where the cars weight is being distributed.

--

If from the rear:
Check rear shock mount
A rear half-shaft could make a similar knock noise at low speed if it is bad
 

Souldriver

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Also make sure the lugs on a wheel havent come loose. I had that once and it produced a solid thud unpredictably under similar situations.
 

Dary

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On further inspection, dealer confirmed u-joint at base of steering column is faulty. It moves freely one way and is binding the other. New u- joint is on order. The replacement strut mount and other sway bar link will not be installed yet. There was a similar issue with faulty steering u-joints with 2008 Escapes that was causing a clunk sound. Hopefully this is the fix.
How's the steering feel? Little weird with loose feeling? Mine is pretty messed up, every bump, pothole or uneven surfaces will turn the steering wheel quite a bit. In both directions.
 

CTH621

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I had a similar problem before. Struts replaced and the sound went away for a few days and came back. I then replaced the strut mount on the driver side where the noise is coming from. Sound has gone away for a year now. The old "faulty" strut mount looked fine actually. Can't tell why it's making noise. Now I'm beginning to think that "faulty" strut mount was NOT defective after all. I'm thinking maybe it was an installer fault, wherein they did not tighten the strut top mount nut properly. This top mount nut is a bit tricky to install and few people know how to tighten this. The proper way should be to hit it with short bursts of an impact gun while the spring is compressed with a spring compressor. Then release the compressor, install the strut spring assembly to the vehicle, remove the jacks and hit the nut again with the impact gun (short bursts) while the full weight of the vehicle is on it.
 

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socalx

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I'm curious about this as well. I have popping sounds from both directions. If I turn slow left or right, I get this noise. It is more prominent during cold weather. The sound almost completely goes away when the weather is warm. But it is exactly as you described.

I took my car to the dealer last month to discuss this problem but they could not find anything that was causing it. The weather also warmed up the next day so the problem went away.
 

Burger2002

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Keep us updated. All of us with similar noises are curious to know what you find out.
Thanks for all the detailed updates so far.
 

Cobra Jet

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Did they check:

1) front wheel bearings
2) front hub bearing nut torque
3) rear axle nut torque (there have been folks stating that the rear axle nuts have been found to be under torqued and some rotted hearing a "clunk" noise that almost sounds like it's coming from the front, but is definitely a loose rear axle nut).
 

Competition Orange

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Wow...

I had some front end popping, turned out the accordion boots on the inner tie rods popped off the rack. I got 2 new boots and 1 inner tie rod, problem went away.

Do you not have lemon law in Canada? Does your situation qualify?
 

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clicklogical

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Just read this thread! Crazy stuff. I hope everything works out and they get you squared away and back on the road soon!
 

CustomS550

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Mine exhibits the same sound but while braking / forward weight transfer as far as i can tell. It sounds exactly like yours from within the cabin. Has the dealer checked the calipers? I plan on taking the caliper apart soon.

 

ronemca

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This is part theory/part logical observation...

Slow speed driving...on a level, smooth surface...with no variations in accel/brake...and with significant back&forth turns of the steering wheel...IMO rule out struts, strut boots, bearings, axle nuts, calipers, end links, motor mounts.

Therefore my leading contender is a loose steering rack.

Without being confrontational, see if you can get the name of the engineer(s) who have examined your car and/or offered an opinion. One or two names could prove to be pure gold down the road - if not for you, then perhaps for someone else. (But don't publish those names openly) And if there is any whispering about TSB's...try to get reference numbers.

And lastly...

Try to ensure that all of the things they do - esp. the replacement of parts and wheel alignments - are documented. And make sure you get copies!
 

Stripler

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Did they check wheel bearings? Look at this video. If you have any play in your wheels like that, it can cause all sorts of creaking, popping, knocking, etc. Usually heard/felt during low speed changes in momentum (braking, pulling away, turning). Sometimes location of the thump/creak can be really deceiving and you can even feel it in clutch, etc when it is coming from a bad wheel bearing.

One of my rears has play just as in this video. I'm debating taking it to dealer, or just fixing myself. I'd like to get it fixed for free, but unfortunately I could see the dealer causing a lot more headaches (crappy repair, keep it all day and say nothing is wrong, have to get a rental car, etc, etc). I wish I could just show a video of my car to dealer, have him give me the $85 part, and be on my way.

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]ARB57Zfsw1g[/MEDIA]"]
 

GT Pony

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I wish I could just show a video of my car to dealer, have him give me the $85 part, and be on my way.

If you read your Ford warranty it stipulates that you can ask for just the parts if it's covered under warranty.
Ford Can Just Give You the Warranty Parts.jpg
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