UPR oil separator install. Help!?

Looks beautiful! Well the CSS took maybe 30 seconds to put on. What about the main can? I see a picture, but where does it mount/attach to the body of the car? A little help?

Some pics in the first post of this thread. A bit tough to see exactly what is going on, but maybe with all the parts in hand it will be clear. The UPR guys are usually pretty responsive, so they'll probably have something helpful to add soon.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36881

Good luck with the rest of the install!

-T

OK! I got it figured out if anyone's wondering. Remove nut/stud, and insert bolt that holds the bracket/can into the hole. Design allows fine adjustment of angle of outlet tube with 4 allen bolts. It was needed because there are a lot of wire looms in the way. Looks like a great design! I'm assuming this is the way it goes.

Yes sir. That is where it mounts.

it's the same spot as the Mustang GT's and here are the directions for that:
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-37354654005614/upr-products-5030-98-install.pdf

Post pictures of the install!.

Pictures

Thanks UPR! I was too excited when the toys came from UPS to find those other instructions apparently! Anyway, now that I've read the instructions after the fact, there are a couple of differences. We have no radiator beauty cover to remove so that's nice. The bolt is a bit different at the mounting point as well. Mine had an odd size reverse hex stud with a 13mm nut on it, not sure if it holds anything. 6mm was close enough to the stud size to remove. Of course remove the hoses from the can before attempting to jam it down in there. I've highlighted the socket head cap screws that can be loosened to fine tune the outlet angle from the separator. You'll need this to prevent interference with the refrigerant line, and wire bundles/harness everywhere. Also highlighted the check valve (flow goes toward pcv valve, duh). Posted a pic of the CSS but if you need instructions for that, well, just take a bubble bath and have your husband do it. (I'm just joking, I had my wife doing most of this after she cooked dinner). I'm glad I did this because there was oil in both breather lines when I removed them at only 700 miles (been breaking her in right since mile 9!)

UPR - Can you compare and contrast your system vs what Ford Performance is going to release soon for the GT350? I really don't care about the cost ... I just want the best option for the car. Thanks!

AMpowerJ said:

UPR - Can you compare and contrast your system vs what Ford Performance is going to release soon for the GT350? I really don't care about the cost ... I just want the best option for the car. Thanks!

Click to expand...

I really don't know what ford is using but I'm sure its more of just a screen system.

Ours uses a difusser technology that is a multi disc design. This has been known to not just catch oil, but moisture and and contaminates getting by. We usually see 2-3ounces every 1500-2000miles with ours. The check valve will work WITH the factory pcv to offer a much better vacuum in the motor. The Clean side will catch and keep any oil from splashing into the intake tube.

combustor said:

Thanks UPR! I was too excited when the toys came from UPS to find those other instructions apparently! Anyway, now that I've read the instructions after the fact, there are a couple of differences. We have no radiator beauty cover to remove so that's nice. The bolt is a bit different at the mounting point as well. Mine had an odd size reverse hex stud with a 13mm nut on it, not sure if it holds anything. 6mm was close enough to the stud size to remove. Of course remove the hoses from the can before attempting to jam it down in there. I've highlighted the socket head cap screws that can be loosened to fine tune the outlet angle from the separator. You'll need this to prevent interference with the refrigerant line, and wire bundles/harness everywhere. Also highlighted the check valve (flow goes toward pcv valve, duh). Posted a pic of the CSS but if you need instructions for that, well, just take a bubble bath and have your husband do it. (I'm just joking, I had my wife doing most of this after she cooked dinner). I'm glad I did this because there was oil in both breather lines when I removed them at only 700 miles (been breaking her in right since mile 9!)

Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this and enjoy!! Post your results after a couple thousand miles.

UPRSteve said:

I really don't know what ford is using but I'm sure its more of just a screen system.

Ours uses a difusser technology that is a multi disc design. This has been known to not just catch oil, but moisture and and contaminates getting by. We usually see 2-3ounces every 1500-2000miles with ours. The check valve will work WITH the factory pcv to offer a much better vacuum in the motor. The Clean side will catch and keep any oil from splashing into the intake tube.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I just ordered one.

UPRSteve said:

I really don't know what ford is using but I'm sure its more of just a screen system.

Ours uses a difusser technology that is a multi disc design. This has been known to not just catch oil, but moisture and and contaminates getting by. We usually see 2-3ounces every 1500-2000miles with ours. The check valve will work WITH the factory pcv to offer a much better vacuum in the motor. The Clean side will catch and keep any oil from splashing into the intake tube.

Click to expand...

So the clean side needs to be emptied too. Maybe a stupid question ...:headbonk:

AMpowerJ said:

So the clean side needs to be emptied too. Maybe a stupid question ...:headbonk:

Click to expand...

It looks like the clean side one should just catch the oil @ WOT and let it drain back into the valve cover when you let off, but maybe the designer can chime in?

AMpowerJ said:

So the clean side needs to be emptied too. Maybe a stupid question ...:headbonk:

Click to expand...

It is designed to drain it back down into the head but you can remove the bottom and check it when you empty the can.

combustor said:

It looks like the clean side one should just catch the oil @ WOT and let it drain back into the valve cover when you let off, but maybe the designer can chime in?

Click to expand...

You are correct on draining back but you can pull it apart to check.

Are any AN wrenches needed to attach the lines/fittings, or is it all Plug n Play?

84venom said:

Are any AN wrenches needed to attach the lines/fittings, or is it all Plug n Play?

Click to expand...

The lines are plug n play

Useful thread as mine came with no instructions. I've installed them on different cars before, so assuming this will go smoothly. Still, this thread helps.