2015-2016 Tech Pack and Base GT350 Cooler Solution Discussion

One of my main turn offs to an electric pump is that I have to install a switch inside the car.

Is it possible to use the fog light switch from other mustang models?

lemers said:

One of my main turn offs to an electric pump is that I have to install a switch inside the car.

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Mine is going in here. Great hidden location if you don't use the sunglasses holder which I don't.

lemers said:

One of my main turn offs to an electric pump is that I have to install a switch inside the car.

Is it possible to use the fog light switch from other mustang models?

Click to expand...

I considered that option but decided I needed more direct control for 2 pumps. I installed 2 toggles next to the steering column, the interior temperature sensor panel makes it easy to install and access. The upper switch is for the transmission pump, the lower switch is for the differential pump. These switches light up when the circuit is on.

lemers said:

One of my main turn offs to an electric pump is that I have to install a switch inside the car.

Is it possible to use the fog light switch from other mustang models?

Mustang-Fog-Light-Kit-3.jpg[/IMG]

Click to expand...

Here's what the service manual says on the topic...

Fog Lamps
The BCM monitors the headlamp switch position by sending voltage signals on multiple circuits to the headlamp switch.
There is one circuit for each headlamp switch position. At any given time, one of the signal circuits is switched to
ground to indicate the headlamp switch position.
When the BCM receives input from the headlamp switch indicating a request for the front fog lamps, the BCM provides
voltage to the front fog lamps.
When the BCM receives input requesting a LH or RH turn signal, the BCM disables the corresponding front fog lamp
until the turn signal request is no longer active.
The BCM also provides an Field Effect Transistor (FET) protection of the fog lamp output circuits. When an excessive
current draw is detected, the BCM disables the fog lamp output circuit drivers.

So it's not a simple switched circuit directly to the fog lamps. It doesn't necessarily mean it wouldn't work but it would require more examination of the wiring diagrams and switch/circuit capacities. I think you'd be better off using a dedicated switch.

A long night, but everything is bolted in, torqued, and lines connected. The exhaust and driveshaft are still off since I am awaiting the MGW. Fluids have not been added so I can't say there are no leaks yet. In total I have about 16 hours into the job. This could probably be cut down with a lift, second set of hands, or just experience with this car already.

Pretty much everything bolt wise under the car can be removed with basic hand tools. I relied heavily on the following.
-10mm
-13mm
-15mm
-1/2in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-1/4in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-3/8in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-adjustable torque wrench
-transmission jack for install
-trim removal tool

The instructions didn't list removal of the driver side catalytic converter from what I saw, but it definitely needs to come off to make life easier. The kit also includes new nuts for both sides of the exhaust

The instructions were also missing torque figures for a few items that I will list below. A few others are also not there, but these are the main ones.
-bell housing bolts 35 ft/lbs
-transmission damper 76 ft/lbs
-transmission mount bolts ??

Good news is all the bolts are pretty accessible. Top transmission bots requires every extension I owned. Reconnecting the breather tube to the transmission is a pain if you have big hands, and the retaining clip that holds it to one of the top transmission boltstuds is a nightmare. Every other bolt is there for the taking though.

I also like that the engineers bolted the starter to the block. When you remove the 3 bolts from the bell housing the starter remains in place. Do not have to worry about fiddling with it to get the bolts back in.

Word of advice for the cooler lines. Run the lines for the cooler from the fender into the engine bay first. This will give you a better idea of where to feed toe lines from the transmission into the engine bay. The brackets on the lines make it somewhat fool proof since everything will line up once bolted down.

The deflector folds into itself like a rectangle and surrounds the grill opening.

Current plan is to have the car back on the road this weekend. Glad all the heavy lifting is over.

50 Deep said:

A long night, but everything is bolted in, torqued, and lines connected. The exhaust and driveshaft are still off since I am awaiting the MGW. Fluids have not been added so I can't say there are no leaks yet. In total I have about 16 hours into the job. This could probably be cut down with a lift, second set of hands, or just experience with this car already.

Pretty much everything bolt wise under the car can be removed with basic hand tools. I relied heavily on the following.
-10mm
-13mm
-15mm
-1/2in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-1/4in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-3/8in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-adjustable torque wrench
-transmission jack for install
-trim removal tool

The instructions didn't list removal of the driver side catalytic converter from what I saw, but it definitely needs to come off to make life easier. The kit also includes new nuts for both sides of the exhaust

The instructions were also missing torque figures for a few items that I will list below. A few others are also not there, but these are the main ones.
-bell housing bolts 35 ft/lbs
-transmission damper 76 ft/lbs
-transmission mount bolts ??

Good news is all the bolts are pretty accessible. Top transmission bots requires every extension I owned. Reconnecting the breather tube to the transmission is a pain if you have big hands, and the retaining clip that holds it to one of the top transmission boltstuds is a nightmare. Every other bolt is there for the taking though.

I also like that the engineers bolted the starter to the block. When you remove the 3 bolts from the bell housing the starter remains in place. Do not have to worry about fiddling with it to get the bolts back in.

Word of advice for the cooler lines. Run the lines for the cooler from the fender into the engine bay first. This will give you a better idea of where to feed toe lines from the transmission into the engine bay. The brackets on the lines make it somewhat fool proof since everything will line up once bolted down.

The deflector folds into itself like a rectangle and surrounds the grill opening.

Current plan is to have the car back on the road this weekend. Glad all the heavy lifting is over.

Click to expand...

nice job, thanks for the pictures

Thanks 50 for your excellent documentation. Great job and kudos to you for taking this on without a lift?

After all this work I sure hope you have a few track days in mind for 2017.

50 - Nice write-up and impressive work without a lift. Glad to hear it is not a difficult install. Couple of questions: Do you have to order the air diverter separately? (think someone said it didn't com in the cooler kit) Any need to mess with the clutch?

Still waiting for my delivery...

TDC said:

Thanks 50 for your excellent documentation. Great job and kudos to you for taking this on without a lift?

After all this work I sure hope you have a few track days in mind for 2017.

Click to expand...

choice said:

50 - Nice write-up and impressive work without a lift. Glad to hear it is not a difficult install. Couple of questions: Do you have to order the air diverter separately? (think someone said it didn't com in the cooler kit) Any need to mess with the clutch?

Still waiting for my delivery...

Click to expand...

Thanks gents. I am looking to attend at least 1-2 track days or auto x events this year. I am not hardcore on the track yet, which is why I chose this package, but want the car to be ready for whatever, whenever.

The deflector needs to be ordered separately, but Mike R at Autonation knows the drill and has the part number ready.

To be honest I have access to a lift and a full shop with all the tools. I am not an ASE tech and have no formal training other than being a gear head. Outside of wanting to be able to take my time and work on the car at home, I also wanted to illustrate that doing the swap at home without all the luxuries is easily doable. I could of had a few local guys stop by also but I had to do the swap late in the evenings so I didn't miss time with my family. Hopefully everyone else is encouraged to take on the swap. Even if are just doing the cooler and an external pump that will Be a total cake walk.

choice said:

50 - Nice write-up and impressive work without a lift. Glad to hear it is not a difficult install. Couple of questions: Do you have to order the air diverter separately? (think someone said it didn't com in the cooler kit) Any need to mess with the clutch?

Still waiting for my delivery...

Click to expand...

Just adding my kudos [MENTION=20243]50 Deep[/MENTION] Congrats:cheers: I appreciate the details and pics!
I too was wondering about the clutch. No need to disassemble or mess w any part of it? Does the spline from the transmission just slide into the clutch? I've done some shade tree operations but not to this extent..
Thanks for posting all that you have!!

Tank said:

Just adding my kudos [MENTION=20243]50 Deep[/MENTION] Congrats:cheers: I appreciate the details and pics!
I too was wondering about the clutch. No need to disassemble or mess w any part of it? Does the spline from the transmission just slide into the clutch? I've done some shade tree operations but not to this extent..
Thanks for posting all that you have!!

Click to expand...

Nope. The clutch will go untouched. During the install the splines will usually line up as you apply forward pressure to engage it. You can also turn the rear flange of the transmission to rotate the splines in the input shaft to ensure they mesh with the pilot bearing.

Once I had the transmission lined up with the dowels on the block I installed two of the long bolts and gave them a few turns to suck the transmission in all the way. After that it's smooth sailing.

right, wrong, indifferent over on some of the other sites their is a Law Firm advertising litigation.

http://www.grossmanroth.com/team/rachel-wagner-furst/

Don't know them, have not contacted them, just putting it here for anyone that still gives a shit about the 2016 Limp Mode in daily driving issues. I have decided to work with Voodoo and install coolers and other upgrades. It is however my last Ford.

superman07 said:

right, wrong, indifferent over on some of the other sites their is a Law Firm advertising litigation.

http://www.grossmanroth.com/team/rachel-wagner-furst/

Don't know them, have not contacted them, just putting it here for anyone that still gives a shit about the 2016 Limp Mode in daily driving issues. I have decided to work with Voodoo and install coolers and other upgrades. It is however my last Ford.

Click to expand...

I just clicked the link. Wow, she's a hottie. I cant believe a woman like that would have anything to do with limp issues......

Isn't she trying to fix limp issues?

superman07 said:

right, wrong, indifferent over on some of the other sites their is a Law Firm advertising litigation.

http://www.grossmanroth.com/team/rachel-wagner-furst/

Don't know them, have not contacted them, just putting it here for anyone that still gives a shit about the 2016 Limp Mode in daily driving issues. I have decided to work with Voodoo and install coolers and other upgrades. It is however my last Ford.

Click to expand...

There was a 'member' here who posted this info but someone called him out (they offered up an email that was reported to be troll-like) and the posts were either removed by the 'member' or the mods. Almost immediately another member, [MENTION=28687]Diana[/MENTION] came to the defense of the original 'member' in their first post on this forum. It was all very suspect IMO.
My two cents at the time:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1714250&postcount=2299

Back to our original programming.....
[MENTION=20243]50 Deep[/MENTION], thank you for your ongoing contributions to my education