built motor?

I'm thinking of going built motor before I upgrade the fuel system and turbo. Does anyone know ballpark of how much I should be looking at for getting my motor built?

Best to go with one of our vendors-like: Tune+, Livernois, FFtec etc. who can supply you with an already built motor. Prices will vary with how wild you want to go, figure @$4k-$6k(or more).

ECOSLPR said:

I'm thinking of going built motor before I upgrade the fuel system and turbo. Does anyone know ballpark of how much I should be looking at for getting my motor built?

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My 1st built engine thats in my car right now ended up costing me about 9k, but I also bought a new engine from Ford that was $3600 including the core charge, so it was about $5500, but a friend did it, and he treated me right. This second go round with the original engine from the car is at Esslinger Engineering's shop in Chino CA, so somewhat by you. It is getting a bit more hard core this time, ive been making payments on it to keep the damage smaller when I pick it up. Not to pick any vendor over another as im sure there all good, in fact my friend Kevin Jewer did a great job on this one, problem is he's in New Hampshire, so shipping is involved as well. Im pretty happy I chose Esslinger on this second engine, all they build is race Ford and Chevy 4 cylinder engines, there set up really well over there, you should stop by and check out there shop, and maybe see how my engine is doing for me.

Why not use your stock block and put in a Forged Bottom End Short-Block Kit from MMR for $1149.00.Kit good for 600 HP.Just saying!

DavidHuff said:

Why not use your stock block and put in a Forged Bottom End Short-Block Kit from MMR for $1149.00.Kit good for 600 HP.Just saying!

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I think if you just wanna run a 93 tune or like an E30 tune and make 400 WHP all you really need is good rods and pistons, and can leave pretty much everything else stock. But if you are gonna run E85 or race gas and make 500 WHP, shit gets real, and trust me, you need to go more in depth into the engine and a real build is required, not just a set of rods and pistons.

What more can you do to a short block after setting up piston specs?
The MMR kit is rated for up to 600 HP and comes as follows:
Forged Manley H Beam rods with ARP rod bolts
Forged Manley Pistons with Teflon coated skirts
Chromoly Piston rings with wire locks
Total Seal Piston rings
Add $550 for a new Ecoboost Forged Crankshaft,rod bearing and main bearings.
I built a few very fast Turbo Buick engine and this is the way I will be going.Just saying.

DavidHuff said:

What more can you do to a short block after setting up piston specs?
The MMR kit is rated for up to 600 HP and comes as follows:
Forged Manley H Beam rods with ARP rod bolts
Forged Manley Pistons with Teflon coated skirts
Chromoly Piston rings with wire locks
Total Seal Piston rings
Add $550 for a new Ecoboost Forged Crankshaft,rod bearing and main bearings.
I built a few very fast Turbo Buick engine and this is the way I will be going.Just saying.

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What is going to be your total cost, out the door (assuming you have someone else install it for you)?

Looks like maybe 3/4k if someone else installed it?

I am going to do all the work myself,but I am going to have a local machine shop to hone my old block with hone plates to piston specs and have them polish my crankshaft.I am sure you can ship your bare block to MMR and they can build you a great short block.These guys are 17 time National Event Winners and 6 time World Champions.

DavidHuff said:

What more can you do to a short block after setting up piston specs?
The MMR kit is rated for up to 600 HP and comes as follows:
Forged Manley H Beam rods with ARP rod bolts
Forged Manley Pistons with Teflon coated skirts
Chromoly Piston rings with wire locks
Total Seal Piston rings
Add $550 for a new Ecoboost Forged Crankshaft,rod bearing and main bearings.
I built a few very fast Turbo Buick engine and this is the way I will be going.Just saying.

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Biggest thing is the 2.3 block is an open deck design which can be braced to handle high boost and hp. You can do without it but I bet the bores would move enough to cause gasket problems at high boost. Pictures here of a stock and braced block...

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1264802&postcount=1

PewterCam said:

Biggest thing is the 2.3 block is an open deck design which can be braced to handle high boost and hp. You can do without it but I bet the bores would move enough to cause gasket problems at high boost. Pictures here of a stock and braced block...

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1264802&postcount=1

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I had that done to the engine in the car now, so with the deck deal, the I beam Manley rods and Manley pistons, beehive springs, head studs, and some small other stuff from FFTEC. In the end I spent $5500 on top of a brand new engine from Ford. Im sure it could have been done cheaper had I not done the deck deal, and did the work myself as Davidhuff is gonna do. The Esslinger built engine is gonna be more, I told them I want this engine to take whatever I can throw at it, I have plans to one day go into the low 10s on boost only.
One thing ive said a few times, and im sure no one listens, but if you are serious about racing one of these cars and plan on doing a race engine, get the ball rolling right away, it takes a long time to get one of these built, so find a core now and start the process asap. It also hurts the pocketbook much less then footing that giant bill all at once.

I am only building a street car,low 11.00 et is all I am shooting for with a up grade turbo on e85.Sure look like you guys are building a great engine.Have Fun!

DavidHuff said:

I am going to do all the work myself,but I am going to have a local machine shop to hone my old block with hone plates to piston specs and have them polish my crankshaft.I am sure you can ship your bare block to MMR and they can build you a great short block.These guys are 17 time National Event Winners and 6 time World Champions.

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Thanks...

Not even sure I'm going to do anything else with this one, but I'm going back and forth.

Seems like a lot of time to "build" a car... I have a full-time job and a side business (which I absolutely enjoy) so my time is taken there.

Common sense tells me I should be happy with what I have instead of looking for more. Believe I left common sense with my Honda Accord, in the Ford parking lot.

I want to say my engine cost me about 5k, doing everything but machine work myself. It was early 2015 so it's been a couple years. New block and crank from Ford, CSS, etc. Perf makes a great point about the time factor, don't expect to get something like this done in a week. It takes time. Back then I was also waiting for parts to be developed and released as we went, it took forever. Heads were completely unavailable, main and rod bearings we on national back order, etc. It's much better these days but you're still at the mercy of manufacturers, suppliers, machinists, and whoever is doing the labor. I put everything in the motor I could find. Head porting as well.

Guessing at about 20 hours of labor, that's another 2k at a shop to handle that.

Anyone have any luck finding blocks/cranks at junkyards? I'd love to get the ball rolling on a mild build, but don't want to pay retail for a new bottom end core.

wsfrazier said:

Anyone have any luck finding blocks/cranks at junkyards? I'd love to get the ball rolling on a mild build, but don't want to pay retail for a new bottom end core.

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Yeah the retail price is high, and you have the core charge as well. They are all over now, Ebay has them on there if you search well enough, jut gotta hunt all over.