johnny.3sgte
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2016
- Threads
- 12
- Messages
- 82
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- DFW, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 Mustang GT
- Thread starter
- #1
Traded in my 15’ Jeep Wrangler JK for a 17’ base model GT when the girlfriend gave me the “OK”, back in September. She had bought be things for the Jeep, and I told her I would feel bad trading it in, seeing as the stuff she got me were presents. But she said, “It’s okay, I know the 5.0 will make you happy and I can still get you stuff for the 5.0.”
Ultimately I want to use this thread to keep up with my build/progress and get feedback from the community. Looking to build this as the “ultimate drivers feel” for spirited and daily driving to my personal standards. HPDE and AutoX car is a 91’ MR2 Turbo that is currently out of commision due to suspension rebuild, slowly being rebuilt and upgraded due to searching for parts. So the Mustang won’t see much the track much, maybe 2 or 3 HPDE days a year at most.
Started with the handling aspect first by upgrading the suspension. Decided to go with full on BMR, due to highly appreciated reviews and feedback from what I read in the forums. After receiving their products in the mail, build quality is top notch and decided to stick with them from then on out. Went with Koni, since that’s what I ran in all 3 of my MR2s, so no doubt there when I found out that Koni was an option for the S550. Girlfriend got the entire set this past Christmas, she wasn’t lying when she said, “I can still buy you stuff for the 5.0.” I have the front set at “0.25” turn from full stiff and the rear “0.50” turn from full stiff -- took me 2 weeks to adjust it just right, the ride is perfect for me, no more sketchy “bunny hops” when hitting dips on highway at speed. The car now handles much much better over stock, you have a lot more turn in input with the swaybar added. Car is setup to oversteer, just my personal preference due to the MR2 driving style. Not to mention, the rear end feels A LOT more solid with CB005 and TCA047 added. Overall, I have a lot more drivers feel than before. Rear end “skips” mid turn and sometimes when powering out of the turn, but I’m sure that’ll be fixed when the 18x10 wheels and 285/40 tires go on. Car is still on stock square setup with 18x8 +40 and 235/50 sadly, alignment currently right now is:
Front Camber: 0* total
Front Toe: 0* total
Caster: can’t remember total number off the top of my head, but it’s like 8.14* on both sides if I remember correctly.
Rear Camber: 2.2* on left and rear
Rear Toe: 0.24* (BMR toe links haven’t been put on yet, waiting to order control arms)
0.10* on left and 0.14* on right
Suspension:
Still deciding whether I want to go with Steeda’s adjustable control arms or BMR’s fixed arms to bring the rear camber closer to 0* -- Eventually going to run Enkei RPF1 18x10 +38 with 285/40 all around once the tread wears down on the stock tires. So idk just how much the BMR fixed arms will get me closer to 0*, when Steeda’s say they can give you up to +2* of camber. Rather keep it all BMR, but we’ll see.
Transmission/Drivetrain:
To add more to the “ultimate drivers feel”, I purchased the MGW X-Spec with the lower profile shaft, to give me more the MR2 cabin feel. Was on edge between the Barton and MGW, but opted for the MGW since, to me anyway, it looked like the Barton “copied” the design from MGW. So I went with the original, not risking any install or hardware issues. I have nothing but good things to say about this shifter, the best way to describe the satisfaction from shifting gear to gear is like racking a bolt action rifle. It feels just that good.
Future Build Purchases:
Wanting to keep the Mustang all motor, aiming to get as close as possible to 500rwp with 430-ish ft-lb of torque on E85. I’ll be happy with that, but realistically -- I’ll probably be around 450rwhp and 420ft-lb on 91/93 octane (ballparking it) after seeing dyno sheets here on the forums. But it’s all relative to tune and tuner really.
But here’s a picture of how Clementine sits as of now, nothing too special. Exterior and Interior will come way after. Want to eventually get a pair of Sparco Evo2 and Watson 4-pt roll cage in it.
My current 91’ MR2 Turbo with a gt28rs turbo on 10psi with a stock overhauled 3SGTE (just fuel upgrades mainly) making a little over 300rwhp.
The black one was a 93’ NA stock (sold to a MR2OC member in Florida), the blue is a 91’ Turbo (sold to a buddy locally) with a CT26 w/upgraded 60mm compressor at 18psi at 350rwp also on a stock 3SGTE with fuel and cooling upgrades. The blue was taken from the Lexus LFA Pearl Blue when I had it repainted, love that color. The MR2s were sold due to the girlfriend saying it was unnecessary to have 3. The 370z was stock and used primarily as a DD, nothing special about it, ended up trading it in for the Jeep.
Ultimately I want to use this thread to keep up with my build/progress and get feedback from the community. Looking to build this as the “ultimate drivers feel” for spirited and daily driving to my personal standards. HPDE and AutoX car is a 91’ MR2 Turbo that is currently out of commision due to suspension rebuild, slowly being rebuilt and upgraded due to searching for parts. So the Mustang won’t see much the track much, maybe 2 or 3 HPDE days a year at most.
Started with the handling aspect first by upgrading the suspension. Decided to go with full on BMR, due to highly appreciated reviews and feedback from what I read in the forums. After receiving their products in the mail, build quality is top notch and decided to stick with them from then on out. Went with Koni, since that’s what I ran in all 3 of my MR2s, so no doubt there when I found out that Koni was an option for the S550. Girlfriend got the entire set this past Christmas, she wasn’t lying when she said, “I can still buy you stuff for the 5.0.” I have the front set at “0.25” turn from full stiff and the rear “0.50” turn from full stiff -- took me 2 weeks to adjust it just right, the ride is perfect for me, no more sketchy “bunny hops” when hitting dips on highway at speed. The car now handles much much better over stock, you have a lot more turn in input with the swaybar added. Car is setup to oversteer, just my personal preference due to the MR2 driving style. Not to mention, the rear end feels A LOT more solid with CB005 and TCA047 added. Overall, I have a lot more drivers feel than before. Rear end “skips” mid turn and sometimes when powering out of the turn, but I’m sure that’ll be fixed when the 18x10 wheels and 285/40 tires go on. Car is still on stock square setup with 18x8 +40 and 235/50 sadly, alignment currently right now is:
Front Camber: 0* total
Front Toe: 0* total
Caster: can’t remember total number off the top of my head, but it’s like 8.14* on both sides if I remember correctly.
Rear Camber: 2.2* on left and rear
Rear Toe: 0.24* (BMR toe links haven’t been put on yet, waiting to order control arms)
0.10* on left and 0.14* on right
Suspension:
- BMR (SP083R) Handling Springs
- BMR (SB043R) Front and Rear Sway Bars
- BMR (CB005R) IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit
- BMR (TCA047) Aluminium Vertical Links
- BMR (CP001H) Caster/Camber Plates
- BMR (TR005R) Adjustable Rear Toe Links
- KONI Yellow Adjustable Struts; (Front and Rear)
- Steeda (555-4123) Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Still deciding whether I want to go with Steeda’s adjustable control arms or BMR’s fixed arms to bring the rear camber closer to 0* -- Eventually going to run Enkei RPF1 18x10 +38 with 285/40 all around once the tread wears down on the stock tires. So idk just how much the BMR fixed arms will get me closer to 0*, when Steeda’s say they can give you up to +2* of camber. Rather keep it all BMR, but we’ll see.
Transmission/Drivetrain:
- MGW Race X-Spec Short Throw Shifter (w/shift knob)
To add more to the “ultimate drivers feel”, I purchased the MGW X-Spec with the lower profile shaft, to give me more the MR2 cabin feel. Was on edge between the Barton and MGW, but opted for the MGW since, to me anyway, it looked like the Barton “copied” the design from MGW. So I went with the original, not risking any install or hardware issues. I have nothing but good things to say about this shifter, the best way to describe the satisfaction from shifting gear to gear is like racking a bolt action rifle. It feels just that good.
Future Build Purchases:
- Kooks long tube headers.
- Corsa Xtreme.
- 350 Intake Manifold with 90mm TB (would love to see velocity stacks, seeing InnoV8s system for the coyote motor back in 2012, “good for 620hp and 450ft-lb and redline of 8,200rpm” is what they’re claiming, but not too much information on it or dyno sheets. But it sounds heavenly)
- JLT Intake
- Upgraded fuel system.
- Upgrade to 6-piston brakes (undecided on who to go with)
- Upgrade to a McLeod RST twin disc clutch and flywheel.
- Undecided tune, any suggestions? Might just take it to ATS racing who does all the tuning for MR2s in the DFW area.
Wanting to keep the Mustang all motor, aiming to get as close as possible to 500rwp with 430-ish ft-lb of torque on E85. I’ll be happy with that, but realistically -- I’ll probably be around 450rwhp and 420ft-lb on 91/93 octane (ballparking it) after seeing dyno sheets here on the forums. But it’s all relative to tune and tuner really.
But here’s a picture of how Clementine sits as of now, nothing too special. Exterior and Interior will come way after. Want to eventually get a pair of Sparco Evo2 and Watson 4-pt roll cage in it.
My current 91’ MR2 Turbo with a gt28rs turbo on 10psi with a stock overhauled 3SGTE (just fuel upgrades mainly) making a little over 300rwhp.
The black one was a 93’ NA stock (sold to a MR2OC member in Florida), the blue is a 91’ Turbo (sold to a buddy locally) with a CT26 w/upgraded 60mm compressor at 18psi at 350rwp also on a stock 3SGTE with fuel and cooling upgrades. The blue was taken from the Lexus LFA Pearl Blue when I had it repainted, love that color. The MR2s were sold due to the girlfriend saying it was unnecessary to have 3. The 370z was stock and used primarily as a DD, nothing special about it, ended up trading it in for the Jeep.
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