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Alignment settings - standard suspension

Leeroy

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Having recently hit a few bad potholes (stay calm Manders, not bad enough to damage wheels:D), thought I would go and get my alignment checked. What are the recommended settings for road use? I know there is a thread from Gibbo somewhere that covered it but think that was for a well modified setup:shrug:
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Coyote Red

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Stock I'd say 1.1 neg. camber on the front may be accomplished but not any better. You need coil overs or cc plates to fine tune anymore.
 

Steeda UK

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Talking of camber (what a great segue!)

Check out our newly released Camber adjust kits. Lock in rear camber correctly and accurately....

Steeda Mustang Rear Camber Adjustment Kit

It's so new its not even in stock in the UK yet, but it will be very soon....

If anyone wants to "pre order" one I am happy to sort out a little discount...

 

Gibbo205

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Talking of camber (what a great segue!)

Check out our newly released Camber adjust kits. Lock in rear camber correctly and accurately....

Steeda Mustang Rear Camber Adjustment Kit

It's so new its not even in stock in the UK yet, but it will be very soon....

If anyone wants to "pre order" one I am happy to sort out a little discount...


That has absolutely zero need. The amount of UK Mustangs myself and XJK have alligned on the rear, its an absolute piece of piss, so easy to do camber on the rear of these cars. Nothing is required!

It is the front that needs better stuff, stock there is no adjustment, camber bolts work but now these are a royal pain in the rear and of course the correct method with top mounts is expensive and labour intensive. Only other option would be to slot the holes but no one wants to cut their new car.
 

Cati

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you don't need either - my one with a big drop hit the out limits of the stock geometry setting at the wheel alignment centre in southampton. Top guy and only 40 quid to do the job. Proper nice kit too and a great selection of photos of regular cars.

Unless you want some big stance there really is no need
 

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v8hgt

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Sometimes I think we all forget just how good the standard car is. There are many aftermarket products marketed for our cars that offer zero or negative benefits so shop wisely folks.
 

kapiteinlangzaam

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Mine also aligned up to within stock specs on Eibach Pro Linear springs with no need for camber bolts front/rear.
 

kapiteinlangzaam

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SteveS

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Mine also aligned up to within stock specs on Eibach Pro Linear springs with no need for camber bolts front/rear.
When i had my Pro-Kit fitted i gave the instaler the Eibach recommended allignment and also Gibbo's. I believe they went somewhere in between :shrug:
Car has a great stance. Trouble is, when i get it done again i have no idea what it was set to and installer cant remember.
 

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kapiteinlangzaam

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I didnt, no.

To be honest they arent really that sort of place. I trust 'em, they are very busy and they often fit me in with small jobs ad-hoc and have saved my bacon a few times. Im not going bothering them for printouts.

Having said that, if/when I get it to a more specialised place in the coming weeks ill be sure to get printouts etc. :)
 
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Leeroy

Leeroy

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So, according to Eibach, the OE specs are as follows:
Front
Camber = -0.8deg
Caster = 7.2deg
Toe = 0.0deg

Rear
Camber = -1.2deg
Toe = 0.1deg
 

Steeda UK

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Steeda recommendations:

2015+ FORD MUSTANG
Street Front Alignment:
OE Camber = -0.8 deg (+/-0.8 deg)
OE Caster = 7.2 deg (+/-0.8 deg)
OE Toe = 0.00 deg (+/-0.2 deg)
Steeda target Camber = -1.2 deg
Steeda target Caster = 7.5 deg
Steeda target Toe = 0.2 deg

Street Rear Alignment:
OE Camber = -1.2 (+/-0.8 deg)
OE Toe = 0.1 deg. (+/-0.2 deg)
Steeda target Camber = -1.6 deg
Steeda target Toe = 0.2 deg

In general for track use, you will increase the Camber on the front and rear (negative)
So instead of 1.2 deg, you may run 1.7 deg (negative)
To find the ‘best’ negative camber, you will need to try different settings and take tire temperatures to evaluate your results.
 

Gibbo205

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So, according to Eibach, the OE specs are as follows:
Front
Camber = -0.8deg
Caster = 7.2deg
Toe = 0.0deg

Rear
Camber = -1.2deg
Toe = 0.1deg

The settings are all in my thread, but even I cannot be bothered to go searching through it haha.


For a fast road setup I run following:




That is using a hunter alignment, which works in minutes.

If its a garage that works in decimal like Enoch put up those values would roughly translate too:

Front
Camber = -1.25-1.50deg
Caster = 7.2deg
Toe = 0.0deg

Rear
Camber = -1.50-1.70deg
Toe = +0.25deg
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