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Need clutch suggestions for dedicated track car

sldghmr

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They say it takes a village....so here we go:

I'm running a (for the most part) stock 2015 GT/PP in SCCA T2 class. Clutch/flywheel wise I have to adhear (sp?) to the below:


5. T2-T3 only: Any clutch disc and pressure plate of OEM
diameter may be used, provided that they shall be bolted
directly to an unmodified stock flywheel and is no lighter
than 5% of the factory OEM clutch disc and pressure
plate.
6. T2-T3 only: Any car with a dual mass flywheel may
change to a single mass flywheel that is no lighter than

5% of factory OEM weight.


I've scorched the factory clutch towards the end of last season. I'd like to get an aftermarket setup in there, but if I can't I'll go back to factory stock. Right now I'm thinking McCleod, SPEC, or Exedy. I'll get an aluminum flywheel with it also, just to try it out a couple of times. Would like something a little grippier than stock (easy part), easy on the pocket (would be nice), and non-twin disk (see rules). Oh, and it needs to be able to take heat...lots of it... sessions can go up to 45min on track. I do have trans and differential coolers in place. Thanks....
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Norm Peterson

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Those rules as written don't make a lot of sense, so I'm wondering if a clarification has been issued?

"no lighter than 5% of" isn't the same as "no lighter than 5% less than" or "within 5% of", which is probably the intent behind even talking about the weights of these components (and which would make aluminum flywheels and other significantly lighter clutch parts class-illegal).

It sounds like your OE clutch isn't capable of enough pressure and you're getting too much slip on the upshifts. Are you doing a lot of no-lift upshifting?


Norm
 
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sldghmr

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Norm,
Yeah them rules were written to keep everything as close to factory stock as possible without saying "only factory stock allowed" LOL

I'm lifting every time I shift (unfortunately) ...I really miss drag racing! Actually, the stock clutch has been fine, my problem comes with downshifting. I never learned to heel & toe...I've tried for years in every one of my manual vehicles. Second to last event of the season, coming into turn 1 a little faster than normal, and didn't do my normal triple step routine (brake, clutch, gas (to rev match),brake again). I stayed on the brakes and when I down shifted the clutch screamed, the tires screamed, and the rear end decided it wanted to lead! Been smelling toasted clutch ever since. Thought I'd try to upgrade since it's getting pulled anyways...
 

Grintch

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I would ask Steeda as they have first hand experience with a Touring class, road race s550.

How is switching to an aluminum flywheel going to keep you within 5% of the stock weight?
 

DR_

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Having a race clutch makes proper heel/toe downshifting even more important as they don't slip near as much. Also if you miss shift your motor is done as again no slip and no chance to save it. They also take a lot more break in (which is difficult in a track only car) or they will fail. Can you tell I'm not a fan :)
 

ddozier

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Norm,
Actually, the stock clutch has been fine, my problem comes with downshifting. I never learned to heel & toe...I've tried for years in every one of my manual vehicles.
Do the rules allow for an Autoblip device? If so you can use it and replace the stock clutch with another or one of the Exide stage1 that retain the stock flywheel. I would avoid a puck or paddle style clutch disk and stick with a full face disk. There will be a lot of added driveline shock if you do a puck style and I do not have much faith in the rubber driveshaft to trans connection point. If you have replaced that with a solid piece you may be able to get away with a grabbier clutch.

Like others have said if you make the clutch have a higher clamping force the use of a proper rev match downshift is even more important. You will find that the rear wheels will break loose on downshifts and the rear will want to slide and step out

Dave
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