BMR - Any Aussie installs yet?

Egghead said:

I'll second that !

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Agree here too. I have the BMR cradle lock out kit and vertical links ready to go when my pony is delivered off the Tarago.

BMR CB005 instal

I've had the kit for ages so thought I would fit it this arvo,
The cradle was quite a bit off centre from factory,
right side went ok but the front left was way off and no amount of pulling and pushing could get it centered enough to get the bolt in, after 3 hrs I gave up,
with out being centered it is quite easy to cross thread the bolt, only using hand tools so avoided that situation.
I left the spacers in and temp put the OEM brace plate back on.

Car needs an oil change so I,ll have the shop see if they can centre the cradle and fit the brace. then I will need to get an alignment done.

Let you know how it pans out.

It would be great if you did before and after dB measurement. I have vert links and cradle lock-out and the tyre noise on coarse chip (roads around scenic rim SEQ) is enough to give you tinnitus - wife won't go distances with me as its too noisy in the cabin. On hot mix - no worries - its pretty good as tyre far as noise goes. I don't remember high tyre noise before fitting cradle lockout and spherical/spher vert links (which was after bigger wheels and tyres). It would be great if any-one downloaded a dB Meter app on i-phone and checked it out - coarse chip roads. I'll get around to it, but I will have to remove bits to do it.
I had Steeda diff bushings but NVH/diff whine/clunks was unacceptable.
I'll get around to writing up a story on my installs - 2 sets of springs (tearing up the $100's), failed Koni shock after 1 klm, Koni US won't warrant (I am in Aust), springs clashing, great service from Vogtland Aust on the springs I have now. Still got rear "bounce" - jiggly, won't settle though way better on an 800-880lb compound spring than the first set being a 980 lb spring. I will try Steeda rear billet shock mounts and have the rear Konis custom valved when I can hold of a new mount. Rear "bounce", road noise and rear end steer on/off power/gear changes are things to fix. Unacceptable NVH comments on forum means LCA bearing off limits for me.

FreeRein said:

It would be great if you did before and after dB measurement. I have vert links and cradle lock-out and the tyre noise on coarse chip (roads around scenic rim SEQ) is enough to give you tinnitus - wife won't go distances with me as its too noisy in the cabin. On hot mix - no worries - its pretty good as tyre far as noise goes. I don't remember high tyre noise before fitting cradle lockout and spherical/spher vert links (which was after bigger wheels and tyres). It would be great if any-one downloaded a dB Meter app on i-phone and checked it out - coarse chip roads. I'll get around to it, but I will have to remove bits to do it.
I had Steeda diff bushings but NVH/diff whine/clunks was unacceptable.
I'll get around to writing up a story on my installs - 2 sets of springs (tearing up the $100's), failed Koni shock after 1 klm, Koni US won't warrant (I am in Aust), springs clashing, great service from Vogtland Aust on the springs I have now. Still got rear "bounce" - jiggly, won't settle though way better on an 800-880lb compound spring than the first set being a 980 lb spring. I will try Steeda rear billet shock mounts and have the rear Konis custom valved when I can hold of a new mount. Rear "bounce", road noise and rear end steer on/off power/gear changes are things to fix. Unacceptable NVH comments on forum means LCA bearing off limits for me.

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What are you suspecting to be the cause of the rear end bounce? Did you click the bushes after lowering?

Interesting about the Steeda diff bushes and the NVH, they and lots of others claim no increase. Exaggetory marketing I see. Did you notice any performance improvements with them in? I'm expecting my GT next week and will be doing vert links with CB005 and ford racing track suspension. Will be bitterly disappointed if it's not on rails by the time I'm done.

FreeRein said:

It would be great if you did before and after dB measurement. I have vert links and cradle lock-out and the tyre noise on coarse chip (roads around scenic rim SEQ) is enough to give you tinnitus - wife won't go distances with me as its too noisy in the cabin. On hot mix - no worries - its pretty good as tyre far as noise goes. I don't remember high tyre noise before fitting cradle lockout and spherical/spher vert links (which was after bigger wheels and tyres). It would be great if any-one downloaded a dB Meter app on i-phone and checked it out - coarse chip roads. I'll get around to it, but I will have to remove bits to do it.
I had Steeda diff bushings but NVH/diff whine/clunks was unacceptable.
I'll get around to writing up a story on my installs - 2 sets of springs (tearing up the $100's), failed Koni shock after 1 klm, Koni US won't warrant (I am in Aust), springs clashing, great service from Vogtland Aust on the springs I have now. Still got rear "bounce" - jiggly, won't settle though way better on an 800-880lb compound spring than the first set being a 980 lb spring. I will try Steeda rear billet shock mounts and have the rear Konis custom valved when I can hold of a new mount. Rear "bounce", road noise and rear end steer on/off power/gear changes are things to fix. Unacceptable NVH comments on forum means LCA bearing off limits for me.

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I'm a little surprised at your results TBH. First thing I fitted was Vogtland 35s, good thing, still a little jiggly, but better than factory. Next up was BMR sway bars, awesome.
Followed that with BMR CB005, again, fantastic, no extra NVH.
Then did LCA bearing, FR toe/knuckle bearing, BMR toe rods, Steeda Adjustable camber arms and diff inserts (red). NVH increased, mostly it was the clunks on gear changes and transitioning throttle that shat me. Pulled the diff bushes and haven't looked back.
You could say that my car is running sphericals in basically every location possible other than vert links.
One thing I will say in all of that is that the addition of spherical bearings transformed the car from a sloppy unpredictable mess into a razor sharp scalpel.
However, it also freed up the bind in the rear suspension and when combined with bigger sway bars and factory shocks, the ride started to suck. That's when air bags became a thing.
Perhaps those with quieter exhausts are finding more NVH? :shrug:

Hi Spiller - yes suspension points are clocked - its not that. Bounce for me is a ride issue - low speed city driving. It's jiggly at low speeds, it won't settle - it won't "sit down". There is a thread here that deals with the issue I have...http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79508
Ride above say 80 kmhr is great - even with big 980 lb springs (removed) above say 90 kmhr - ride is totally fine.
And with your new suspension - you'll be fine - many are very happy with that set up, although if progressive springs ask them to convince you why you would not have spring isolators (poly sleeve on spring) installed when the spring is meant to compress metal to metal - cos it will make noise when it does.
Burkey - no issues with the Vogtland springs. Bounce - not saying its worse than new either. Its just still not right. Noise - for those that have ever owned a 911 Porsche (996) you will know what I am talking about. The road noise racket from the big tyred rear is too high on coarse roads - not a noise friendly touring car. Smooth freeways - its great. In mine, and I can't say its what every-one experiences, I get a particular type of frequency, hard edged, and for those that have tinnitus you will know the sound, that sits above the tyre roar. Now when I talk about a dB meter to measure impact of mods, I know little about noise and noise types so I am not sure whether the dB meter is the thing that will measure this noise. However, for all the comments about "no change" in NVH it would be great to see vendors show some instrumented evidence of this to help with trade off decisions.
By the way I have Borla Touring exh- at a cruise that settles right down.
By the way the car handles very well. It has awesome mechanical grip on 10's/11's and MPSS - I don't need upgraded bars. I did fit a GT350 strut brace and I reckon that has made quite a difference to the feel of the front end. Burkey - I also note you run sphericals in all places other than vertical links. This is the only place I have them. Drawback is they rotate on the ball and can twist and touch adjacent suspension member. Its only a problem if this generates noise - not sure if it does.

Diff bushes - waste of money in my mind - yes the on/off throttle clunks made it sound like a low quality car - from outside and in the cabin. This and the diff whine at the point where I picture in my mind that the diff nose is transitioning from up to down (power/decel) - in the middle point - the drive shaft I don't think is splined to "shorten up" so the load goes into the nose of the diff. Underway, at constant speed, it was not noisy. Anyway, I am worried that the bushes stress the diff - so they are out - apart from the low rent noise.
Good luck to all - enjoy the mods - its all fun!

[MENTION=24589]FreeRein[/MENTION] your point about the spring isolators in the FR3 package..I am using the ford progressive springs that come with the kit. It says to swap the factory rubber isolator from the rear springs over to the new one when you install. You are suggesting not to do this?

I just sold my 996 GT3. The entire car was rose jointed. Clunky and clackity but I loved it, best car I've ever owned. I did not daily drive it though!

Hi Spiller
Spring isolators - I am meaning a plastic tube that is slid over coils of a spring where those coils will touch. Progressive rate springs have some closely wound coils and these are designed to collapse on each - which provides the variable rate - this is where they can be noisy. You can see them in some photos of springs - I think Eibach show them fitted to theirs. I was supplied some by Vogtland that I put on post install - they are a curly "apple peel" type. You are referring to the spring seats which are carried over OE pieces. Good thread commenced by MustangCollector here on suspension.

GT3 - lucky chap. My Porsche was a great drivers car - but not really a touring car for passengers. Early morning week-end blaster up Mac pass etc in NSW. Mustang is more a GT car and so should offer good civility at cruise - plus have a fair round town ride.

Cheers

FreeRein said:

Hi Spiller
Spring isolators - I am meaning a plastic tube that is slid over coils of a spring where those coils will touch. Progressive rate springs have some closely wound coils and these are designed to collapse on each - which provides the variable rate - this is where they can be noisy. You can see them in some photos of springs - I think Eibach show them fitted to theirs. I was supplied some by Vogtland that I put on post install - they are a curly "apple peel" type. You are referring to the spring seats which are carried over OE pieces. Good thread commenced by MustangCollector here on suspension.

GT3 - lucky chap. My Porsche was a great drivers car - but not really a touring car for passengers. Early morning week-end blaster up Mac pass etc in NSW. Mustang is more a GT car and so should offer good civility at cruise - plus have a fair round town ride.

Cheers

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Ahh yes, I have seen those before. Thanks for clarifying. They seem like an easy fit post instal so will look into it if the FR springs create some noise (I haven't come across any complaints on this kit in the searching I did but you never know till you know).

Yes 996 definitely not a comfortable passenger car by modern standards but the sweet spot of modern vs old school in 911 terms. Only been two weeks without mine but strong case of seller's remorse.

spiller said:

Ahh yes, I have seen those before. Thanks for clarifying. They seem like an easy fit post instal so will look into it if the FR springs create some noise (I haven't come across any complaints on this kit in the searching I did but you never know till you know).

Yes 996 definitely not a comfortable passenger car by modern standards but the sweet spot of modern vs old school in 911 terms. Only been two weeks without mine but strong case of seller's remorse.

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I can't talk about the FR springs but the Vogtlands didn't make any noises that I could detect in the 6,000kms I had them in. I can however see slight wear marks on the tighter wound coils. Very slight. Not even through the powdercoat.
Be wary of adding isolators to progressive springs. If you stop those first few coils doing the job the way they were DESIGNED to operate, you'll soon lose the progressive nature of the spring. :headbonk:
[MENTION=23751]Vogtland Mustang[/MENTION], any thoughts?

spiller said:

Ahh yes, I have seen those before. Thanks for clarifying. They seem like an easy fit post instal so will look into it if the FR springs create some noise (I haven't come across any complaints on this kit in the searching I did but you never know till you know).

Yes 996 definitely not a comfortable passenger car by modern standards but the sweet spot of modern vs old school in 911 terms. Only been two weeks without mine but strong case of seller's remorse.

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Hi Spiller interesting you have remorse selling your GT3, I have the same sold mine 996.2 Clubsport last year still miss it but never got to drive it a great deal. Not sure if you are still looking at springs for your Mustang. I am the factory Distributor for Vogtland Springs, Borla Exhausts and Project 6GR Wheels. If you would like some further information feel free to contact me on 03 9553 6915 or email me [email protected] Cheers Fred

Vogtland Mustang said:

Hi Spiller interesting you have remorse selling your GT3, I have the same sold mine 996.2 Clubsport last year still miss it but never got to drive it a great deal. Not sure if you are still looking at springs for your Mustang. I am the factory Distributor for Vogtland Springs, Borla Exhausts and Project 6GR Wheels. If you would like some further information feel free to contact me on 03 9553 6915 or email me [email protected] Cheers Fred

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Hi Fred, I extensively tracked my GT3 for two years, it was basically a cup car for the street. I've had to downsize to just one car so the GT3 and daily went...the mustang will become a double duty for me. I will try out the ford springs that come with the kit first but possibly interested in an exhaust system. I will be in touch.

Cheers

MaxQ said:

I've had the kit for ages so thought I would fit it this arvo,
The cradle was quite a bit off centre from factory,
right side went ok but the front left was way off and no amount of pulling and pushing could get it centered enough to get the bolt in, after 3 hrs I gave up,
with out being centered it is quite easy to cross thread the bolt, only using hand tools so avoided that situation.
I left the spacers in and temp put the OEM brace plate back on.

Car needs an oil change so I,ll have the shop see if they can centre the cradle and fit the brace. then I will need to get an alignment done.

Let you know how it pans out.

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We got it done after much perseverance and the help of a couple of mates, felt good to finish the job.

took it for a test drive, no extra noises felt tighter in the back end.
got it booked in friday for a 4 wheel alignment.

Did you drop both sides at the samw time? I've heard it's easier to do if you do one side at a time. Were you able to temporarily get the bolt back in with the OEM brace? I'll be doing mine myself but don't want to get stuck in case I need a shop to finish the job.

spiller said:

Did you drop both sides at the samw time? I've heard it's easier to do if you do one side at a time. Were you able to temporarily get the bolt back in with the OEM brace? I'll be doing mine myself but don't want to get stuck in case I need a shop to finish the job.

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I did the right side first , undoing the bolts and lowering the cradle to fit the caps. put the bolts back in and then leaving them loose and did the left side,

no problem putting the OEM brace back on as the hole is brace is hugh.

today we loosed off all the bolts and took the 4x 13 mm bolts out from the front braces, then using a ratchet strap and pry bar moved the cradle into position
making sure the bolt went in only using hand to turn if it started to bind take it out and move the cradle around and try again.once it is in then tighten up every thing to spec as per the instructions.
hope this helps

would suggest its not a one person task if it turns to :rant: