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Differential Fluid Change DIY

db252

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Ok, couldn't find one searching for our cars so here goes. This just talks about the basics with pics and by no means is a suggestion of what gear oil to use so use whatever you want and modify this plan at your will. For reference, this was done on a 2016 GT PP with the Torsen differential and 15,000 miles on stock fluid.

First suggestion is to make sure the oil is warm to hot just like doing a regular oil change. Also make sure the car is level or slightly higher in the front once jacked up and secured to aid in passive oil draining.

Tools/supplies:

3/8 ratchet
Oil catch container
Hand pump to fill differential with new fluid
Paper towel/rags
Nylon brush to clean both magnetic fill/drain plugs
Some type of liquid measuring container to add what fluid you removed
2 quarts of gear oil. Friction modifier will also be needed if your oil requires it so be sure to include this in your replacement total. Mine does not so no pic.


Process:

Remove top plug by just inserting the 3/8 ratchet in the plug....no socket or extension needed. This will help with venting while draining from the bottom hole. Now remove the bottom plug the same way and catch the oil.

IMG_0412.png


IMG_0411.png


While it's draining everything it can, take this time to clean the drain/fill plugs with a nylon brush or whatever you like. I didn't get a pic with the material that was on it but it was a surprising amount and covered the magnet completely. Here it is as I was working on it. The magnet is strong and doesn't want to let go of the material very easily.

IMG_0408.png


Once you've got it clean to your liking, put one of the plugs back into the bottom drain and torque to 25 lb. ft or 34 Nm which will also apply to the top plug once you put that back in later. This is Ford spec.

As long as the proper amount of fluid was put in to the differential prior to draining, whether it be stock or already replaced before, it is wise to replace only what was drained. Too little will not lubricate properly and too much can overload the system and damage seals. I measured what I took out so that I could put the right amount in. I filled this container 3 times and the last fill produced just over 5 ounces. Ford spec calls for 9mm of space below the fill hole.

IMG_0414.png


IMG_0416.png


IMG_0418.png


This gave me a yield of 53 and change ounces. I rounded up to 54 ounces for my replacement due to the fact some is always left behind in the drainage tray.

Now I have my refill amount and I added this pump to the quart container and these can be found at any auto parts store plus other devices of your choosing.

IMG_0410.png


Now its time to fill the differential. You should have already reinstalled the drain plug in the bottom and just install the other end of the pump hose to the top hole. A quart is 32 ounces so one quart was going in regardless. Pump that in till it's empty and then change to the other and pump the correct amount left over to match the drained amount total.

IMG_0421.png


Once you are finished pumping the fluid in, reinstall the last plug and torque to the same amount as you did with the lower.

That's pretty much it. Just get the car back on the road and do some slow figure eights to get the fluid dispersed and your good to go after checking for any leaks.

Hope this helps whoever is looking for it and if your differential looks slightly different, the process is exactly the same for the most part.

Anything I've missed or you have questions on please ask or comment and I will answer or add to the post. Thanks.
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jacknifetoaswan

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Great write up! When I did my S197's gear oil, I removed the cover and cleaned the entire pumpkin, then painted the cover for aesthetics. I'm already at 21k, and plan to do this at 25k. Now, I just need to figure out the best stuff to put in my Torsen!

Thanks!

JR
 

Roh92cp

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Very nice write up Just wondering where you got gear oil with your name on the bottle:first:
 
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db252

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Great write up! When I did my S197's gear oil, I removed the cover and cleaned the entire pumpkin, then painted the cover for aesthetics. I'm already at 21k, and plan to do this at 25k. Now, I just need to figure out the best stuff to put in my Torsen!

Thanks!

JR
Thanks for saying. Removing the cover is definitely the ultimate clean. Everybody has their thoughts and opinions on oils so choose at will. You can see what I'm putting in and all I can say is research it and call the company and form your own opinion. Thanks again.

Very nice write up Just wondering where you got gear oil with your name on the bottle:first:
Oils made by BND Automotive are custom made to your vehicle and application. I track as you personally know Shawn and this oil already has friction modifiers built in and resulted in no high temp warnings and no noise that some complain about depending on what they run. I run everything made by them including engine oil, coolant and fuel additive. Research it and call the owner Brian. As far as my name, I guess it's something he does as it's custom made. He has every spec regarding my car and everything I've done to it plus my environment and how I drive as parameters to the make up of whatever I use from him.
 

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Thanks for posting this. I never really understood how to do this myself, getting the fluid in there. Getting it out seemed very straight forward ;). So I've always just taken it to a shop and had them do it. The problem with that is you get whatever they are using and I'm sure it's not good stuff. I'd much rather buy the oil and do it myself.

Question, how do I know if my Ecoboost PP 3.55 differential is a Torsen like the GT PP or if it's just an LSD? I can't seem to find a qualified answer anywhere.
 

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db252

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Thanks for posting this. I never really understood how to do this myself, getting the fluid in there. Getting it out seemed very straight forward ;). So I've always just taken it to a shop and had them do it. The problem with that is you get whatever they are using and I'm sure it's not good stuff. I'd much rather buy the oil and do it myself.

Question, how do I know if my Ecoboost PP 3.55 differential is a Torsen like the GT PP or if it's just an LSD? I can't seem to find a qualified answer anywhere.
I believe the 3.73 is the only Torsen in the line up and the 3.55 and 3.15 are LSD types regardless of GT, EB, or V6. All in all the process for changing them is exactly the same except for models that have a diff cooler but that is in the GT350 line up. All of the Mustangs get the same spec fluid and friction modifier per the service manual. Even if you didn't want to do this yourself, you should be able to supply any fluid you want to the shop to put in. Thanks for the comments.
 

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I believe the 3.73 is the only Torsen in the line up and the 3.55 and 3.15 are LSD types regardless of GT, EB, or V6. All in all the process for changing them is exactly the same except for models that have a diff cooler but that is in the GT350 line up. All of the Mustangs get the same spec fluid and friction modifier per the service manual. Even if you didn't want to do this yourself, you should be able to supply any fluid you want to the shop to put in. Thanks for the comments.
Excellent! Thanks!
 

Dutch44

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Ok, couldn't find one searching for our cars so here goes. This just talks about the basics with pics and by no means is a suggestion of what gear oil to use so use whatever you want and modify this plan at your will. For reference, this was done on a 2016 GT PP with the Torsen differential and 15,000 miles on stock fluid.

First suggestion is to make sure the oil is warm to hot just like doing a regular oil change. Also make sure the car is level or slightly higher in the front once jacked up and secured to aid in passive oil draining.

Tools/supplies:

3/8 ratchet
Oil catch container
Hand pump to fill differential with new fluid
Paper towel/rags
Nylon brush to clean both magnetic fill/drain plugs
Some type of liquid measuring container to add what fluid you removed
2 quarts of gear oil. Friction modifier will also be needed if your oil requires it so be sure to include this in your replacement total. Mine does not so no pic.


Process:

Remove top plug by just inserting the 3/8 ratchet in the plug....no socket or extension needed. This will help with venting while draining from the bottom hole. Now remove the bottom plug the same way and catch the oil.

IMG_0412.jpg


IMG_0411.jpg


While it's draining everything it can, take this time to clean the drain/fill plugs with a nylon brush or whatever you like. I didn't get a pic with the material that was on it but it was a surprising amount and covered the magnet completely. Here it is as I was working on it. The magnet is strong and doesn't want to let go of the material very easily.

IMG_0408.jpg


Once you've got it clean to your liking, put one of the plugs back into the bottom drain and torque to 25 lb. ft or 34 Nm which will also apply to the top plug once you put that back in later. This is Ford spec.

As long as the proper amount of fluid was put in to the differential prior to draining, whether it be stock or already replaced before, it is wise to replace only what was drained. Too little will not lubricate properly and too much can overload the system and damage seals. I measured what I took out so that I could put the right amount in. I filled this container 3 times and the last fill produced just over 5 ounces. Ford spec calls for 9mm of space below the fill hole.

IMG_0414.jpg


IMG_0416.jpg


IMG_0418.jpg


This gave me a yield of 53 and change ounces. I rounded up to 54 ounces for my replacement due to the fact some is always left behind in the drainage tray.

Now I have my refill amount and I added this pump to the quart container and these can be found at any auto parts store plus other devices of your choosing.

IMG_0410.jpg


Now its time to fill the differential. You should have already reinstalled the drain plug in the bottom and just install the other end of the pump hose to the top hole. A quart is 32 ounces so one quart was going in regardless. Pump that in till it's empty and then change to the other and pump the correct amount left over to match the drained amount total.

IMG_0421.jpg


Once you are finished pumping the fluid in, reinstall the last plug and torque to the same amount as you did with the lower.

That's pretty much it. Just get the car back on the road and do some slow figure eights to get the fluid dispersed and your good to go after checking for any leaks.

Hope this helps whoever is looking for it and if your differential looks slightly different, the process is exactly the same for the most part.

Anything I've missed or you have questions on please ask or comment and I will answer or add to the post. Thanks.
Ok so I'm the guy that always asks questions that being said , I put 3:73 in my 17 GT when I did I put over 3 QTs originally I thought was odd to get it to the fill oil , I had forgot I didn't bring the car level on the jack stands, so big o tires was nice enough to level it , now 1200 miles break is done switching to purple , I took your math from the 54 you got , the books say 1.6 QTs and 4.5 ? For modifier . Doing the math 62 OZ ( 32 per QT ) divied by 1.6 is 40 ( 40oz beer ? ) then plus the 4.5 is 44.5 you drained out 54 ? That's roughly 10 OZ difference , I could have made a mistake some where possible ..
 

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Ok so I'm the guy that always asks questions that being said , I put 3:73 in my 17 GT when I did I put over 3 QTs originally I thought was odd to get it to the fill oil , I had forgot I didn't bring the car level on the jack stands, so big o tires was nice enough to level it , now 1200 miles break is done switching to purple , I took your math from the 54 you got , the books say 1.6 QTs and 4.5 ? For modifier . Doing the math 62 OZ ( 32 per QT ) divied by 1.6 is 40 ( 40oz beer ? ) then plus the 4.5 is 44.5 you drained out 54 ? That's roughly 10 OZ difference , I could have made a mistake some where possible ..
You're math is off. 1.6qts is ~51 Oz, plus your 4 Oz of modifier is 55 Oz.

You don't divide the 2 quarts by 1.6, you multiply 32 oz/qts by 1.6qts to get oz instead of quarts.
 

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Can I confirm.... the 3.73 Torsen on the diff does not require friction additive
 

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db252

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  • Do I need to use friction modifier with Torsen?
    Yes and no. Although the differential does not use a clutch pack design, modifier additive is still sometimes used in OEM applications. In such cases, we suggest referring to the OEM recommendation.

    The above is straight from Torsen. BG says to use the friction modifier for street driven cars and no modifier for track only. User choice.
 

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  • Do I need to use friction modifier with Torsen?
    Yes and no. Although the differential does not use a clutch pack design, modifier additive is still sometimes used in OEM applications. In such cases, we suggest referring to the OEM recommendation.

    The above is straight from Torsen. BG says to use the friction modifier for street driven cars and no modifier for track only. User choice.
This is sound advice. I would also add that without the friction modifier, you will have a lot of unwanted noise coming from the differential.
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