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someone point me in right direction (spacers)

number1olddog

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It seems my google skills are lacking. I'm looking for direction on how to go forward with 1" billet spacers or leave the car the way it is. I get conflicting views on spacers and in general for the mustang. I currently own a EB PP and would like the cars tires to stick out a little and for the car to look more masculine. I like the wheels I currently have and don't want or have the funds right now to buy new wheels so it seems the spacers are the way for me. I see plenty of pictures but would like to know about the durability of these over time. My mustang is currently my daily driver and I put around 13K miles on my car a year. Can someone post a link below that sends me to a thread on durability of spacers and pro's and con's to them. Thanks all
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jbailer

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It seems my google skills are lacking. I'm looking for direction on how to go forward with 1" billet spacers or leave the car the way it is. I get conflicting views on spacers and in general for the mustang. I currently own a EB PP and would like the cars tires to stick out a little and for the car to look more masculine. I like the wheels I currently have and don't want or have the funds right now to buy new wheels so it seems the spacers are the way for me. I see plenty of pictures but would like to know about the durability of these over time. My mustang is currently my daily driver and I put around 13K miles on my car a year. Can someone post a link below that sends me to a thread on durability of spacers and pro's and con's to them. Thanks all
I have a EB PP also and run 1" wheel adapters/spacers. With the stock PP wheels and tires the fitment is almost perfect. It'll push the front out close to the fenders, IMO it sits perfect. In the back it pushes it out just a little far but this is very subjective. The wheels themselves don't push out past the 1/4 panel, just the bulge of the tire sticks out. It's a little too far for my taste but I've received a lot of compliments on it, people seem to like it. Even when I say I think it's too far, they defend it. Personally I think a 20mm would be perfect in the rear for the EP PP wheels but then you would need shorter studs or cut them or run wheel spacers rather than wheel adapters and put long studs in the hubs.

I got the 1" Coyote wheel adapters from American Muscle also available from CJ Pony. My warning if you get those, just like the guy in the video says, the lug nuts that come with them are VERY cheap. Technically the torque should follow the stud. The torque spec on the factory studs for our wheels is 148 lb ft so that's what you should be tightening the adapter to the hub at. However if you do, you will likely strip the cheap lug nuts provided. I tightened mine down to 148 and almost 2 years later took them off, when trying to put them on, found they wouldn't tighten past about 50 lb ft, they were stripped. A great replacement for the cheap provided lug nuts are Gorilla 40047 available at Summit Racing. They fit perfectly, will still sit not past the end of the factory stud and Gorilla says they only recommend following the factory torque spec and that they were good for well past 148 lb ft. You'll need to follow the adapter's torque spec for tightening down the wheels though because of the cheap studs they use, you don't want to strip those either. I haven't attempted it yet but one thought is you could replace the studs in the adapters with factory quality studs, I just don't know if that would strip the spacer they are seated into or not. I just followed their spec (or close) and tightened them down to 95 lb ft.

One last thing to consider. I knew nothing about wheel spacers/adapters when I started this. There were no instructions and Nobody had mentioned galvanic corrosion before. Having the 2 dissimilar metals together creates corrosion. After mine being on the car for almost 2 years, they were corroded on there and I couldn't get them off. There was no visible sign from the outside, they looked perfect. I eventually got them off using a torch and beating them to death. If you want to see the horror, google stuck wheel adapters. Get some aluminum anti-seize and apply lightly to each surface before installing the adapters.
 

jbailer

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Best video you'll ever find on spacers, enjoy.

You're right, that's one of the best and most informative videos I've seen on wheel spacers/adapters. Thanks for sharing.
 

THE_AHJ

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+1, very informative video.
 

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Warhead

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1" (25mm) seems to be the deal with spacers on stock wheels. Even my 2005 with 18" are recessed roughly this much, and my 2015 Ecoboost 18" were also recessed this much. I agree 100% that 25mm in general is the sizing to go with on stock wheels for an essentially flush appearance.
 

trbstang

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I have to agree with jbailer about the spacers. I tried the 25mm ones on my GT PP and the rears were just a bit too much. So I ordered a set of Eibach 20mm ones fo the rear, and used the 25mm ones on the front. Now the wheels sit about perfect IMO. I did grind down the studs a bit for clearance.

Thanks for the info on the anti-seize. I will use some when I get new tires next month, after only 10K miles.
 

nancy

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I have a EB PP also and run 1" wheel adapters/spacers. With the stock PP wheels and tires the fitment is almost perfect. It'll push the front out close to the fenders, IMO it sits perfect. In the back it pushes it out just a little far but this is very subjective. The wheels themselves don't push out past the 1/4 panel, just the bulge of the tire sticks out. It's a little too far for my taste but I've received a lot of compliments on it, people seem to like it. Even when I say I think it's too far, they defend it. Personally I think a 20mm would be perfect in the rear for the EP PP wheels but then you would need shorter studs or cut them or run wheel spacers rather than wheel adapters and put long studs in the hubs.

I got the 1" Coyote wheel adapters from American Muscle also available from CJ Pony. My warning if you get those, just like the guy in the video says, the lug nuts that come with them are VERY cheap. Technically the torque should follow the stud. The torque spec on the factory studs for our wheels is 148 lb ft so that's what you should be tightening the adapter to the hub at. However if you do, you will likely strip the cheap lug nuts provided. I tightened mine down to 148 and almost 2 years later took them off, when trying to put them on, found they wouldn't tighten past about 50 lb ft, they were stripped. A great replacement for the cheap provided lug nuts are Gorilla 40047 available at Summit Racing. They fit perfectly, will still sit not past the end of the factory stud and Gorilla says they only recommend following the factory torque spec and that they were good for well past 148 lb ft. You'll need to follow the adapter's torque spec for tightening down the wheels though because of the cheap studs they use, you don't want to strip those either. I haven't attempted it yet but one thought is you could replace the studs in the adapters with factory quality studs, I just don't know if that would strip the spacer they are seated into or not. I just followed their spec (or close) and tightened them down to 95 lb ft.

One last thing to consider. I knew nothing about wheel spacers/adapters when I started this. There were no instructions and Nobody had mentioned galvanic corrosion before. Having the 2 dissimilar metals together creates corrosion. After mine being on the car for almost 2 years, they were corroded on there and I couldn't get them off. There was no visible sign from the outside, they looked perfect. I eventually got them off using a torch and beating them to death. If you want to see the horror, google stuck wheel adapters. Get some aluminum anti-seize and apply lightly to each surface before installing the adapters.
Hey jbailer,

noticed you had your spacers on for a pretty long period of time on your ecoboost.

Were the rock chips that bad on your rear panels? from debris being flung up and the wider stance?

Thanks
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