Kill Switch?

Is there any need for a kill switch since our cars have the key-less ignition? Meaning since the push button does not work with out the key inside of the passenger area, does this mean the CPU won't start the car with out it or is the system easily bypassed when stolen?

I searched the threads and did not find this topic, but my searching skills are suspect at times.:headbonk:

I put one in my son's F-250 last week and thought it would be a good idea for the Shelby if necessary.

The receiver for the key fob is under the cup holders. If you remove the rubber pad you will see a nook in there where you put the fob in if the battery dies. There are only 2 wires on that little computer but the signal is digital so its not like you can hot wire past the sensor.

Cloning keys is another story... if you had Fords VCM and access to the OBD port than yes your car is gone that easy!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Rotunda-Dealer-IDS-VCM-II-VCM2-2-Toughbook-Scan-Tool-w-SUBSCRIPTION-VCM-2-/201852893703?hash=item2eff5eba07:g:9ngAAOSw8w1X-Gck

There is no such thing as adding a kill switch these days since you'll throw code in the can-bus. Europe the hot bed of car thefts put key locks on their OBD ports http://www.autocyb.com

The better way is to route a fake OBD port where the factory one is http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBD-II-OBD2-16-Pin-Male-to-Female-Extension-Cable-Diagnostic-100CM-New-Car-Cable-/281695690062?hash=item41965f1d4e:g:06sAAOSweW5VWY1a&item=281695690062&vxp=mtr

And use the same extension to route the real port to a hidden location. There is no need to make it easy to find since its not used that often. You could put a lanyard around the connector and route it in the center console by the shift boot. Pull the boot up off the console grab the lanyard and pull the obd cable out. You could also route it under the carpet under seat etc..

Ok. Thanks.

I went with this.
http://www.ravelco.com/

One question I have is why would it throw a code if I do like I did on my kids F-250? Find the starter or ignition fuse, wire it up where you flip the switch breaking the circuit and no starter or ignition operation, then flip it back closing the circuit and good to go. Tricking the car into thinking a fuse has blown nothing more than that. The kiddos 2013 F250 did not throw a code when we tested it and it was dead in the water until the circuit was closed by flipping the switch back.


For about $7 in supplies and about 30 minutes of work, his truck will not be stolen. We went with the ignition fuse on his.

Fuse #34 in the passenger compartment is the ticket. Run-start bus fuse. Pull that fuse, the car will not start. AC power comes on and you get several warnings but no start. Put it back in, life is good, car starts right up no warnings. So, that will be the fuse I am going to pull and replace with fuse jumper (pic attached). Then wire it up with the toggle switch in the circuit (cut off the red wire in the left pic, not needed) and hide that sucker somewhere good but convenient.

Right pic is the set up but with the 30amp blade fuse in place of the fuse in the pic. Plug the two black open ends in right pic into the fuse jumper in left pic you have a complete fused circuit with no wires cut.

There will be a code stored for the starter in-op and blown fuse. No check engine light but there will be a code there. When you go in for service they will check it out see the mod and may try some funny business like void warranty on the system thats modified.

When I had my stingray vette I replaced the license plate lights with led bulbs. Every time it was in the shop they would swap back in incandescent bulbs to clear my code. It was very annoying..

The obd cord method your unplugging it under the dash and re-routing it therefor not a mod.

Bob Loblah said:

I went with this.
http://www.ravelco.com/

Click to expand...

When your out of options..

If they get bent out of shape over a blown fuse code then Ford needs to lighten up. I get what you are saying but it's worth the risk of having the car stolen for me. It's stored for days at a time in a somewhat secure location but a theif is a theif.
If it could end up being an issue it is very easy to unplug the jumper fuse and tuck it away in the dash and plug the regular fuse back in. No wires cut, no mod, carry on with service. When I get back home, return the fuse jumper. As long as a thief or anyone else does not try to start the car when the switch is turned off, I doubt it would store a blown fuse code.

I would just locate the ground wire for the fuel pump . And add a switch ( hidden of course) to that . I hate running power through switches

S550SVO said:

I would just locate the ground wire for the fuel pump . And add a switch ( hidden of course) to that . I hate running power through switches

Click to expand...

This may be more difficult than it sounds, the GT350 has dual fuel pumps that should have a backup ground. The starter solenoid power would be an easier approach.

Car is back from the dealership after correct splitter install. Thank you baby Jesus.
I told the tech that a yellow wrench was on in the dash but it went off. They said they will check the codes. Came back and said it was a low voltage warning but all was fine now. They showed zero concern and reset/deleted the code (whatever it is called they do). So, unless someone tries to start the car with the kill switch activated, no codes no worries. Even if they do, the only code kicking out is low voltage so no big deal there either. The car thinks a fuse was blown and replaced.
The switch going in is rated to handle the low amount of juice that it will have to handle to be "on."
Kill switch win.

It's done and works as intended. Car cannot be stolen via ODB II or other ignitation means. If this switch is not flipped, the car cannot be started. No codes either. Factory hole was a perfect fit. Ran the wires behind panels no problem. Very clean and hidden.

S550SVO said:

I would just locate the ground wire for the fuel pump . And add a switch ( hidden of course) to that . I hate running power through switches

Click to expand...

power is still running through ground side of the circuit..

What you need to do is isolate the load with a relay.

Dspec_S550 said:

power is still running through ground side of the circuit..

What you need to do is isolate the load with a relay.

Click to expand...

No separate power and ground leads. When the switch is off and the ignition is off, zero power in the circuit. The only time power is running through the circuit is when the ignition is turned on. At that point, the car thinks a fuse has blown and no start if the switch is off. So yes, power is running to the switch but by when it is off, well you know how that works.
It is a 30 amp switch on a 30 amp fused circuit. I get the use of a relay, but I believe in this application the switch will be able to withstand the power at start up and continued running.

Believe me I am no electrician and if I am totally off in my assessment, I am open to logical explanations as to why it's not a good idea. After all, it won't take much to add a relay but I don't think I need one.