clevernickname
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- 2015 Magnetic Mustang GT, 2016 camaro ss (gfs), 2015 range rover sport, 2013 ford explorer, 2017 WRX
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Wanting to get a list ready for black friday.
Budget: $1000-$1500
Wants: best bang for buck suspension upgrades without sacrificing ride quality too much. Especially due to the fact that I don't have the best roads here and I feel the difference going from 45s to 35s when I upgraded to 20s. So don't want to lower it. I have a NON PP car.
Specifics: More planted around corners, feeling more confidence around corners, and if it's possible, even just FEELING faster in a straight line? Do suspension parts help with that? But mostly just handling.
Usage: DD, haven't tracked it yet. If i do it's something I'd do like once a year. Nearest track is a long drive away.
One problem is I feel like my car will lose control in a corner, and I remember watching a video where some professional driver was saying, it handles better than it feels. So while I'm sure it could handle better if I was a better driver and trusted it more, would also like to feel it more.
Ideally something that isn't too hard to install (either doing it myself or most likely a shop). But don't want install to be too expensive either.
edit: couple builds I've been offered.
1) In an extremely tight budget, you can get the PP dampers (300+), BMR SP082/089 for minimal drop/rake (or SP081/082 for more drop/rake, 200+), CB005 (199), and Ford Racing strut/cowl brace (150+)...got a setup for about 850 USD. You'll get a setup better than PP and eeeasy to install, this was recommended by @BmacIL ...credit goes to him.
Personally, I would add the J&M jacking rails just for safety, vert links, and CB006/007 and be done with it. Basically it's what I did, but with stiffer spring/dampers.
2) For a street car with no future on a road course (at least seriously), I'd go with the Ford Performance Track Package as-is (toe arms are the same so skip installing those) or, more preferably, I would put together a Steeda package with their non-adjustable shocks, sport linear (if you prefer firmer) or progressive (if you prefer softer) springs, and at least upgrade the rear sway bar (someone makes a solid bar out there with which you can still use the OEM bushings - a great dollar-for-dollar value but aftermarket bars aren't that expensive - I like the Steeda bars). I'd leave the IRS well-enough alone unless you feel it still feels disconnected. BMR Performance springs are excellent matches for PP shocks if you want to avoid damper replacement (as are Steeda Progressives, but I'm not a progressive spring fan, personally). I know buttoning up the IRS makes a big difference but it also can let additional/new noises through the suspension, depending on what you do (despite everyone saying "no new NVH" so that's why I personally suggest leaving it alone). My suspension (see signature) is wonderful and I can "turn it down" to be comfortable and plush or turn it up and make the thing a stiff for AutoX/road course. But that requires going under the car and heave-hoing bolts and twisting adjusters when the time comes. Something most folks have no interest in doing - or don't understand what to do, when (not that I'm an expert on it, but you have to be the "tinkering type" to tolerate the effort).
Budget: $1000-$1500
Wants: best bang for buck suspension upgrades without sacrificing ride quality too much. Especially due to the fact that I don't have the best roads here and I feel the difference going from 45s to 35s when I upgraded to 20s. So don't want to lower it. I have a NON PP car.
Specifics: More planted around corners, feeling more confidence around corners, and if it's possible, even just FEELING faster in a straight line? Do suspension parts help with that? But mostly just handling.
Usage: DD, haven't tracked it yet. If i do it's something I'd do like once a year. Nearest track is a long drive away.
One problem is I feel like my car will lose control in a corner, and I remember watching a video where some professional driver was saying, it handles better than it feels. So while I'm sure it could handle better if I was a better driver and trusted it more, would also like to feel it more.
Ideally something that isn't too hard to install (either doing it myself or most likely a shop). But don't want install to be too expensive either.
edit: couple builds I've been offered.
1) In an extremely tight budget, you can get the PP dampers (300+), BMR SP082/089 for minimal drop/rake (or SP081/082 for more drop/rake, 200+), CB005 (199), and Ford Racing strut/cowl brace (150+)...got a setup for about 850 USD. You'll get a setup better than PP and eeeasy to install, this was recommended by @BmacIL ...credit goes to him.
Personally, I would add the J&M jacking rails just for safety, vert links, and CB006/007 and be done with it. Basically it's what I did, but with stiffer spring/dampers.
2) For a street car with no future on a road course (at least seriously), I'd go with the Ford Performance Track Package as-is (toe arms are the same so skip installing those) or, more preferably, I would put together a Steeda package with their non-adjustable shocks, sport linear (if you prefer firmer) or progressive (if you prefer softer) springs, and at least upgrade the rear sway bar (someone makes a solid bar out there with which you can still use the OEM bushings - a great dollar-for-dollar value but aftermarket bars aren't that expensive - I like the Steeda bars). I'd leave the IRS well-enough alone unless you feel it still feels disconnected. BMR Performance springs are excellent matches for PP shocks if you want to avoid damper replacement (as are Steeda Progressives, but I'm not a progressive spring fan, personally). I know buttoning up the IRS makes a big difference but it also can let additional/new noises through the suspension, depending on what you do (despite everyone saying "no new NVH" so that's why I personally suggest leaving it alone). My suspension (see signature) is wonderful and I can "turn it down" to be comfortable and plush or turn it up and make the thing a stiff for AutoX/road course. But that requires going under the car and heave-hoing bolts and twisting adjusters when the time comes. Something most folks have no interest in doing - or don't understand what to do, when (not that I'm an expert on it, but you have to be the "tinkering type" to tolerate the effort).
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