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Improving GT-PP's competitiveness on track + keeping street comfort!

valentinoamoro

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Just read the Lightning Lap from C&D (been reading ém since they first started doing those) and thought the Mustang GT put up a decent showing. Tire tech has evolved, so has engineering and the conditions are different, but the drop in times between a 06 GT and a 15 GT is stunning. A lot of the faster cars gained time with fast shifting autos (faster but no where near as much fun) or cost a lot more and/or have enhancements that reduce street livability.

Anyway, I was thinking of a list of easy mods we can do to our Stangs that will shave off 3-5 seconds without killing daily drivability or ability to consistently lap (heat soak, wear etc). Confidence is key, so mods that provide more rigidity without NVH increases, super lowered cars, massive front splitters etc are welcome. Here's what I pulled together so far. Thoughts welcome. I realize tolerance of NVH etc vary s widely, but here is the stuff I found that balances pricing and performance with minimum impact. Yes, driver mod and education is huge no doubt, but this is a thread on setup.

1) Tires: A square setup of 285's or F 285, R 305's shod in Michelin PSS. The PSS is a good all round tire (unlike R compounds or 100 treadwear tires) which good response, grip and longevity. They also shed weight compared to the stock Pirellis. Cost approx $1300-1500. Larger fronts in particular will help reduce understeer in what is a heavy car and increase max G.

2) Wheels: a 10 inch wide 19 inch setup on all 4's (or 10 F, 11 R if going staggered) thats flow formed will look nice, also save 8-10 pounds over OEM per wheel(min) as most come in at the 23-25 pound range. This is unsprung rotating mass. Approx $300-500 per wheel.

3) Sway bars: Stiffer sways bars will help reduce both under and oversteer, as well as dial in a bit less understeer. Steeda and BMR among others have some good options here. Approx $400

4) Good shocks: Seems like we can improve on damping by switching to aftermarket shocks and struts. A lot of us are awaiting Koni yellows, and these should help with cornering and confidence greatly. Approx $800 (not out yet)

5) Matched set of linear springs: Looks like a bunch of firms (BMR, Steeda etc) will be offering springs that will pair with these shocks. This should also help reduce roll and improve response time. Drivability maybe impacted on how low the springs go, how stiff they are and where you live. Issues like bump steer, bottoming out etc can emerge as well. Approx $200

6) IRS Cradle lockout kits: Will help center the IRS and reduce wheel hop without introducing NVH. This will help put the power down better. Steeda and BMR make. Approx $200

7) Toe Links, Knuckle to Toe link bearing: (FRPP, BMR, Steeda) Improves ability to put power down by reducing rubber bushing compliance. Adjust ability to toe. Approx $200.

8) Vertical Links: (BMR, Steeda) Reduce wheel hop. Approx $200.

9) G-Track Brace: Stiffen the front even more and improve steering feedback. Approx 160.

10) Cat-back: Shed about 30 pounds in weight. Improve sound. The performance impact of this is perhaps negligible. Systems available with great sound but no drone. $1000+.

11) Lithium battery: Shed about 15 pounds from the front. Not worth doing unless stock battery needs to be replaced. Approx $90

12) CAI and Tune: Improve breathing, response and HP. Approx 35 wHP, better throttle response and improved cooling. Approx $800.

13) Camber and caster plates: Dial in better negative camber in the front (and reduce in the rear) from stock to improve turn in and reduce understeer. A good balance can be reached depending on your spring and tire combination to improve performance over stock. Approx $250. May not be needed as OEM offers adjust-ability.

14) Shifter bushing: Better feel in the shifts. More connectedness to car. $80

15) High temp range brake fluid & Full synth 5W-40 oil for track days

Total around $6500 in parts (not counting catback) + labor.


Anything else? Would love to see some Stangs running these mods combined (street performance builds) and objective and subjective comparisons Vs stock.

:ford:
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Old 5 Oh

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Sounds like a great build list. Would be a slot car and you are right, nothing there to ruin street potential.
 

Starman

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I would just add that since you only referenced a Mustang competitiveness with a PP then I would tell you that you bought the stock PP and you should just enjoy it since you already paid for it. Now you are talking about pretty much ripping it all out.
 

Old 5 Oh

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I would just add that since you only referenced a Mustang competitiveness with a PP then I would tell you that you bought the stock PP and you should just enjoy it since you already paid for it. Now you are talking about pretty much ripping it all out.
He'll still have the brakes and the dashboard. I might have paid $2495 for that. Sure cost more than that to add those two things to a non-PP. There are a lot of ways to value the PP. It's more than the sum of its parts, and if you like where the package takes the car (short-geared manual being a problem for me) then it's a great deal even if you replace some of the parts. Would think that OP can get some money for the PP wheels at least, and someone would probably pay for the PP springs/shocks/struts. It's all good.
 

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BmacIL

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I had a really good autocross today with my base (non-PP) GT. The handling balance is pretty much exactly where I want it, with just a touch of understeer, even though it has decent amounts of body roll. The biggest thing now is overall grip. I'm still on the stock, crappy A/S tires (trying to burn 'em off!). Adding even a decent summer tire will transform this thing into a weapon. Based on today, I need stiffer bars all around once I get grippier tires.

My mods:
PP front K-braces and strut tower bar
PP rear dampers
PP rear sway bar
 
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valentinoamoro

valentinoamoro

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Have all that and a supercharger. :D:D:D

Check out the build thread.
Supercharger would likely heat soak on a track after a few laps, unless extensive cooling was done I'd imagine. GM has a tough time getting their forced fed performance cars (Zl1, Z06) to not pull timing, and given car and driver's GT PP pulled timing a bit towards the end of the lightning lap (on a very hot day), I dont think adding a supercharger (however big the intercooler is) would make it better. Another reason why Z28, GT350 are NA.

He'll still have the brakes and the dashboard. I might have paid $2495 for that. Sure cost more than that to add those two things to a non-PP. There are a lot of ways to value the PP. It's more than the sum of its parts, and if you like where the package takes the car (short-geared manual being a problem for me) then it's a great deal even if you replace some of the parts. Would think that OP can get some money for the PP wheels at least, and someone would probably pay for the PP springs/shocks/struts. It's all good.
Correct. The package pays for itself in the brakes. Not to mention the torsen and the special ESP modes and the bracing (strut tower, k brace), the additional cooling (trans cooler, etc) and shorter gearing. Changing the wheels, shocks, spring and swaybars is the only replacement (and you can get some money back for the wheels and tires particularly). The rest of the stuff I propose above is most additions to the PP (like lower k-brace, IRS alignment kit etc).
 
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z06psi

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Supercharger would likely heat soak on a track after a few laps, unless extensive cooling was done I'd imagine. GM has a tough time getting their forced fed performance cars (Zl1, Z06) to not pull timing, and given car and driver's GT PP pulled timing a bit towards the end of the lightning lap (on a very hot day), I dont think adding a supercharger (however big the intercooler is) would make it better.
Top mounts I would agree. Centri not so much.


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valentinoamoro

valentinoamoro

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Top mounts I would agree. Centri not so much.


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Please DONT tempt me any further. Did you see the list above? 6500 bucks + labor. Last things I need to do is add another 7K.

:p:p
 

z06psi

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Please DONT tempt me any further. Did you see the list above? 6500 bucks + labor. Last things I need to do is add another 7K.

:p:p
Add it. The smile is worth it.
 

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valentinoamoro

valentinoamoro

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Add it. The smile is worth it.
:D:D

Any other ideas? I couldnt possibly have hit up all 'low NVH, high daily drivability' handling and roadcourse performance mods?

Wanted to add possibly better brake fluid and a 5W-40 full synth weight oil for track days as well.
 

Todd15Fastback

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You need to add the Steeda rear IRS subframe braces. That helps with wheel hop and firming up,the rearend.
 

GTP

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:D:D

Any other ideas? I couldnt possibly have hit up all 'low NVH, high daily drivability' handling and roadcourse performance mods?
Your list is pretty much my dream build. Good job.

What I want to find (eventually) are handling springs that don't lower the car.
 

Lagometer

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1) Tires: Pilot AS/3's 285x40x19 (Western Washington has the rainiest place in the world)

2) Wheels: Forgestar CF-5's 19x10 times 4.

3) Sway bars: Still stock. The PP sway bars are pretty good.

4) Good shocks: Still Stock (Konis down the road)

5) Matched set of linear springs: FRPP Street Springs. (Progressive, I believe)

6) IRS Cradle lockout kits: Backend is all Steeda, braces, IRS kit, vertical links. Got the G-Track Brace up front.

7) Toe Links, Knuckle to Toe link bearing: Still stock

8) FRPP Touring Exhaust yup9) CAI & Tune Waiting on SEMA 2015

Heading in the same direction, but I gotta say, it is already like a slot car, however I don't track it.
 
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apex15stangPP

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2 big differnces that make the car better are the Steeda shifter bushing and rear diff bushing inserts.

Save money drill front sway bar, get energy bushings for the rear and lock collars.
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