lsaviator
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Everyone says no: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20873
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RallyNorthAmerica.com
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No just loosen the clips for the cowl panels and leave the wipers in place. It will flex enough to take out the bolts you need to get to with the wipers still attached.
ChitownStang
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Cool, thanks!
Now all I need is a torque wrench.
I'm not really the best car mech, didn't think this thing involved removing any plastic clips which I never have luck with.. Lol
Now all I need is a torque wrench.
I'm not really the best car mech, didn't think this thing involved removing any plastic clips which I never have luck with.. Lol
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89Trooper
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I lost a plastic clip!
They are cheap at the local Ford dealer if you need a replacement.
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89Trooper
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What do you guys use for picture hosting? As you can see, I lost all my pictures in my journal and have to go back and re-link them to someplace else.
Any suggestions would be great!
Any suggestions would be great!
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RallyNorthAmerica.com
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imgur.comWhat do you guys use for picture hosting? As you can see, I lost all my pictures in my journal and have to go back and re-link them to someplace else.
Any suggestions would be great!
Sc00ter
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Bummer - sorry to hear that.What do you guys use for picture hosting? As you can see, I lost all my pictures in my journal and have to go back and re-link them to someplace else.
Any suggestions would be great!
I probably shouldn't admit this, but I've been following your mods journal since day one here to figure out what I wanted to do to mine (although I did go with Bob's for the Oil Separator). Steal from the best, as they say.
:hail: Thank you, and I hope you get your journal back up with a minimum of hassles.
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89Trooper
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89Trooper
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Just ordered the Raxiom Tail Light Sequencer.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/raxiom-sequential-harness-1014.html
I will post some pics when I do the install.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/raxiom-sequential-harness-1014.html
I will post some pics when I do the install.
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89Trooper
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aFe Magnum FLOW OER Pro DRY S Air Filter
*Click on any picture for a larger image*
Date completed: 1/31/16
Cost: $62.95 (on Amazon) - Product Details on aFe Website
I decided to switch from a K&N filter to this aFe Dry filter because I unfortunately have to drive and park in a very dusty environment.
This filter still has increased flow over the stock filter, plus you can just vacuum it clean:
Here are some pics if you want to get rid of the stock paper filter and swap it over for an aftermarket air filter.
Simply pop off the two clips holding down the lid:
http://i.imgur.com/7FFv2bx.jpg
With a little bit of wiggling, push the lid toward the front of the car to release it from the three tabs, and it lifts up. The sound-tube surprisingly does not get in the way of doing this at all:
http://i.imgur.com/FMFo2W3.jpg
Then slip in the new filter, close up the lid, and you're done:
http://i.imgur.com/VLy50St.jpg
*Click on any picture for a larger image*
Date completed: 1/31/16
Cost: $62.95 (on Amazon) - Product Details on aFe Website
I decided to switch from a K&N filter to this aFe Dry filter because I unfortunately have to drive and park in a very dusty environment.
This filter still has increased flow over the stock filter, plus you can just vacuum it clean:
Here are some pics if you want to get rid of the stock paper filter and swap it over for an aftermarket air filter.
Simply pop off the two clips holding down the lid:
http://i.imgur.com/7FFv2bx.jpg
With a little bit of wiggling, push the lid toward the front of the car to release it from the three tabs, and it lifts up. The sound-tube surprisingly does not get in the way of doing this at all:
http://i.imgur.com/FMFo2W3.jpg
Then slip in the new filter, close up the lid, and you're done:
http://i.imgur.com/VLy50St.jpg
Last edited:
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89Trooper
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- #86
Steeda Ultra Light Jacking Rails
*Click on any picture for a larger image*
Date completed: 2/27/16
Cost: $131.55 from Late Model Restoration (I had a coupon for 6% off).
I wish I would have added these months ago. It makes rotating tires a breeze!
Here are the two rails and hardware (they are laid out how you would install them on the red Mustang shown).
Edit: Crap! I messed up taking the picture! Oh well, the driver's side one is correct. lol
Installation couldn't be easier.
After removing three existing factory bolts (two up front and one in the rear), you can start the front bolt and then move to the back (this is the driver's side):
Once all four bolts are started and hand-tightened, you can tighten them all up. I tightened all bolts to 55 ft-lbs (this is what the stock ones were before removing them). Move to the other side, and you're done!
I wouldn't try this on the pinch weld:
*Click on any picture for a larger image*
Date completed: 2/27/16
Cost: $131.55 from Late Model Restoration (I had a coupon for 6% off).
I wish I would have added these months ago. It makes rotating tires a breeze!
Here are the two rails and hardware (they are laid out how you would install them on the red Mustang shown).
Edit: Crap! I messed up taking the picture! Oh well, the driver's side one is correct. lol
Installation couldn't be easier.
After removing three existing factory bolts (two up front and one in the rear), you can start the front bolt and then move to the back (this is the driver's side):
Once all four bolts are started and hand-tightened, you can tighten them all up. I tightened all bolts to 55 ft-lbs (this is what the stock ones were before removing them). Move to the other side, and you're done!
I wouldn't try this on the pinch weld:
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Todd15Fastback
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I love my jacking rails, too. 3 pumps on my jack and the jack stands are under. So easy.
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[MENTION=9750]89Trooper[/MENTION] glad you're liking the jacking rails! Thanks for posting
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89Trooper
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Mishimoto’s Direct-Fit Baffled Oil Catch Can
Date completed: 4/9/16
Link to Michimoto's site
*Click on any picture for a larger image*
There are a lot of oil catch cans on the market for our cars, and they basically do the same thing, but (in my opinion) none have really looked as good as they performed. Until now. I really like the way this kit looks in the car!
Packaging was excellent. Everything came in perfect condition:
Two ends come pre-connected to the hoses, but the first thing I did was remove the hose clamps and replace them with cable ties. I think the look is so much cleaner, and there is no chance of the hoses pulling off:
To start off, here is a before shot of the (extremely dirty) engine:
First thing to remove is the radiator cover by taking out all eight of these guys:
I also popped off the engine cover to make access easier to the one connector under it (you don't need to remove it all the way - I only did to take pictures). And, of course, remove this:
Here is the new bracket lying on top of the old one. That wire seems to be in the way of the catch can... but we'll address that later:
Remove the the two bolts holding down the old bracket (10mm socket) and remove the rubber insert. Insert the rubber insert into the new bracket, and reinstall with the two stock bolts. If you are a torque freak like me, 40 in-lbs works perfectly:
Now install the fittings into the can. These are tapered and plastic going into metal, so I made them hand-tight, and then snugged them down with a 17mm wrench. Nothing too tight:
Then using the small screws and washers provided, attach the catch can to the bracket from underneath (2.5mm Allen wrench). I purposely rotated the screws to one side of the slots as you see, as it kept the one fitting away from the windshield wiper fluid filler neck:
Now snap on the pre-connected fittings to the valve cover and to the intake:
And now attach the other ends of the hoses to the fittings on the catch can. Again I used black cable ties instead of the hose clamps. Once these are pushed on all the way, rotating them just a little bit will change how the hoses lie in the engine bay. Make sure you are happy with how they look before tightening the hose clamps (or cable ties):
By the way, here is how that wire runs. This grey zip tie can be removed and then there is plenty of slack to run it around the catch can and under the fittings:
Now you can replace the engine cover (if removed) and the radiator cover, and you're done!
Some final pictures of fit and finish:
Now I think I'll clean my engine bay!!
Date completed: 4/9/16
Link to Michimoto's site
*Click on any picture for a larger image*
There are a lot of oil catch cans on the market for our cars, and they basically do the same thing, but (in my opinion) none have really looked as good as they performed. Until now. I really like the way this kit looks in the car!
Packaging was excellent. Everything came in perfect condition:
Two ends come pre-connected to the hoses, but the first thing I did was remove the hose clamps and replace them with cable ties. I think the look is so much cleaner, and there is no chance of the hoses pulling off:
To start off, here is a before shot of the (extremely dirty) engine:
First thing to remove is the radiator cover by taking out all eight of these guys:
I also popped off the engine cover to make access easier to the one connector under it (you don't need to remove it all the way - I only did to take pictures). And, of course, remove this:
Here is the new bracket lying on top of the old one. That wire seems to be in the way of the catch can... but we'll address that later:
Remove the the two bolts holding down the old bracket (10mm socket) and remove the rubber insert. Insert the rubber insert into the new bracket, and reinstall with the two stock bolts. If you are a torque freak like me, 40 in-lbs works perfectly:
Now install the fittings into the can. These are tapered and plastic going into metal, so I made them hand-tight, and then snugged them down with a 17mm wrench. Nothing too tight:
Then using the small screws and washers provided, attach the catch can to the bracket from underneath (2.5mm Allen wrench). I purposely rotated the screws to one side of the slots as you see, as it kept the one fitting away from the windshield wiper fluid filler neck:
Now snap on the pre-connected fittings to the valve cover and to the intake:
And now attach the other ends of the hoses to the fittings on the catch can. Again I used black cable ties instead of the hose clamps. Once these are pushed on all the way, rotating them just a little bit will change how the hoses lie in the engine bay. Make sure you are happy with how they look before tightening the hose clamps (or cable ties):
By the way, here is how that wire runs. This grey zip tie can be removed and then there is plenty of slack to run it around the catch can and under the fittings:
Now you can replace the engine cover (if removed) and the radiator cover, and you're done!
Some final pictures of fit and finish:
Now I think I'll clean my engine bay!!
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