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No worries! I didn’t take it as argumentative at all! But yes I would try a spacer that doesn’t have the catalyst material in it. That will give a faster response time and may help you out. do keep an eye on your fuel trims if you can, not a huge concern but just in case any of these spacers...

thats caused by your mini cats, youre essentially adding a delay element to that feedback loop. You may need to try a j-style non fouler and mess with the inserts.

Ah thanks for the recommendation! I always forget about live link I usually use this website: datazap.me but it was just a quick one sometimes it’s easier to throw it in excel

yeah you have to get under it and look at stuff. Look at the front 02 sensors, the rear o2 sensors, the intake, the MAF, check for exhaust leaks at the block where the headers connect.

0.6 lambda is an afr of 8.5:1, which is rich for an NA coyote of any generation. 1 lambda is 14.1:1 which is normal. When you put your foot down it goes into enrichment mode and adds more fuel, and that typically ends up being around 0.8 lambda or 11.3:1 AFR. Before the pull, Bank 1 goes...

What does the tuner say? Is this the behavior they expect?

Yeah thats really rich, 0.6 lambda at 4k RPM, 0.8 would be more normal. That bank 1 AFR is odd at the beginning too, I don't immediately understand why it deviates from bank 2. Your STFT is stuck at 1 the whole time, what's done to this car? Does it have a tune? I ask that specifically...

ah ah yes the sacred relics: car names :rolleyes:

it adds a little power, because e85 gets power just by being e85.

The wiring in the engine can get wet and it does get wet every time it’s driven in the rain. power washer could force water past the connector seals I’d use a hose.

on a natrually aspirated GT with a manual transmission getting a basic 93 tune this is highly unlikely to happen. If you are concerned, like genuinely concerned get some suspension mods

I've never done it, i plan to eventually but my intention is to try on a honda motor or a cheap engine. I'm under the assumption that the first one will likely not work right with that said, i've seen some jank engines run well. I saw a guy misplace all the cam buckets and it still ran...

The reality is that there's not really a way to know for sure. A dyno tune has the following advantages: You know how much power you're making you'll have a consistent load applied to the car during tune development A remote tune has the following advantages: You have access to a wider array...

add the 93, flash your non-e85 tune drive gently for like 15 minutes and you're good to go. That much e85 will do nothing signifigant, its going to be under 20% total tank concentration assuming 14mpg and actual e85. Which is low enough to where it doesn't matter.

do you have those exhaust clamps with the little piece of black tar in them?

yep you nailed it, its less power per unit volume but its stable at a much higher volume. So the total power in the cylinder is more. its also more all the time, i used stoich as an example but it holds true at power enrich too.

its linear though, so if its more at stoich its more at PE. More all the time.

no you didn't do it right. do this math for ethanol and gasoline: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?103455-WMI-on-a-NA-motor-reasonable-or-wasteful&p=735061&viewfull=1#post735061 gasoline = 18.4k btu/lb, gasoline stoich = 14.7:1 ethanol = 11.5k btu/lb, ethanol stoich = 9:1 at an...

No you’ll make more power at the same timing, there is more energy in the cylinder when running ethanol. Take a second and look up the energy per unit volume of the two fuels, then calculate the total energy at the two stoich afrs.

If you're gonna be snarky you need to be correct. ethanol makes more power even at the same timing, its always a good choice.