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I was being slightly hyperbolic, spike it to a high percentage rather than floor it better for you?

If your still moving and in higher gear with very little throttle I'd guess you could quickly floor it then back out of the gas as quick as you got in it, car will drop from 10th to maybe 3rd depending on your speed resulting in a nice Rev. In my car at least it doesn't result in unwanted...

Best plan would be to just start with the springs and make sure they are all sorted out before doing bars, if they are even needed at that point. If you absolutely want to do them at the same time for ease of install I'd only do the front one on the soft setting to start (still stiffer than a PP...

I've landed right on -1.5 like I've wanted a few times but you definitely don't always get lucky. I always had new camber bolts in the trunk if the shop needed them up until I bought plates. Either way it's important to talk to the Tech ahead of time and not expect them to read your mind if you...

They aren't going to be able to really properly set the front camber if you aren't providing camber bolts or haven't installed camber plates. Sending you somewhere better equipped for the job sounds like the right move unless you want to pay for the alignment twice. I would have taken the...

Ended up with a rear spacer on mine, sat too low and rode on the bumpstops, bad times all around. Although, if your shop managed to get a front spring wrong might check that the rears still have there rubber isolators and are seated properly.

I did 275 35 front and 295 35 rear pilot sport 4s. Really wanted to be more square but I did not want to be any wider up front. 275 wants to tram bad enough imo.

Big 20 ton + press and plan to remove the entire thing from the car, I personally wouldn't even attempt it otherwise.

10 speed with the pp is excellent, I wouldn't discount how many perks the pp adds. After a short learn it stops gear hunting and is very smooth in normal and violently fast in sport. I'm not sure why you'd want an even shorter final gear ratio than 3.55, it's not a tall geared mt82.

I'm not really sure how or why I'd want to dial it in to not correctly feel how the stiffer rear bar effects the car.

A feeling of being very willing and ready to turn coupled with the rear having a lower threshold for stepping out. On the very bad pavement in the area it was upsetting the whole car I felt which amplified the first sensations. With it being around 50 percent stiffer than stock on soft it was...

I did front and rear adjustable bars but ended up putting the rear bar back to stock. I really hated how the car felt with it on.

I'd either buy a set of open sided strut sockets and do it right or do the cave man thing and wrap a finger of a glove around the shaft close to the mount. Then carefully grab that with a vice grip. Should give enough resistance to give a few pulses with an impact gun. Are you lowered? If so...

I'd check out the wheel bearings. They were giving me some odd noises and clunks I thought had to be endlinks.

It was pressing in very smoothly right till the last 1/8 of an inch, the press hung up for a moment like it hit something hard then it actually popped in further than needed and spat out a bit of aluminum. It was on a really merciless bastard of a hydraulic press. I flipped it over, pressed it...

Something like this?

While looking for install notes I read somewhere here that performance pack cars already had better toe link bushings and misinterpreted it as referring to the knuckle to toe bearing since that was the topic of the thread. Be my best guess how I got the wrong idea anyhow.

Damn, I had them on my shelf ready to go but didn't press them in after reading bad information, guess I can give it a go when my springs show up.

I think pp mustangs already have the upgraded knuckle to toe bearing. I'm going to swap to the sp083r springs myself. I've tried a few options with the fr shocks but haven't been fully happy with any of them yet.